Like the Smokey Robinson classic-"You better shop around!"

   Prices on musclecars can vary widely, and I'm not talking about the difference between a Trans-Am and a Formula 400, or a Shelby Mustang and a Mach 1. I'm talking apples to apples, the exact same car. Believe me the prices can still vary by a huge amount, and the condition or mileage of the car doesn't necessarily reflect a higher or lower price.  During the last "Hot August Nights" festival a guy was trying to sell a freshly restored 1970 Boss 302 Mustang for $75,000.  The car was awesome. It looked like it had been kept in a climate-controlled time capsule, or that every nut and bolt on it had been replaced or refurbished. I'm sure the latter was the case. However the car didn't sell, and the owner was gravely disappointed. The reason it didn't sell? Two other Boss 302s went through the same auction, and did sell. The blue one-or excuse me-"Calypso Coral" model sold for $44,500. That's thirty grand less!!  That's the price of a new truck to tow it home with!! And the one for 45 grand looked just as good as the other one that was priced at 75. The paint was flawless, the interior had no cracks in the dash or rips in the seats, all the equipment (down to the california smog pump) seemed to be correct. The other Boss 302 was a Hugger Orange model, and it was rougher than the other two. By rougher, I mean it was probably driven or raced regularly, as opposed to garaged and trailered like the other two. The front seats showed signs of wear, the paint was a little oxydized, and it had numerous "parking lot" chips and such on the body. But it was all there, and the engine ran good. And the price it sold for was $32,000!!  A steal if you ask me. At the same auction a guy was trying to get $24,000 for a low-mileage 1979 10th Anniversary Pontiac Trans-Am. It was a 403 Olds/Automatic model. The same day a 400, 4-speed, WS6 10th Anniverary T/A sold for $14,000. That's 10 grand less, for the better car! If I remember correctly the 403/slushbox model had 30,000 miles on it, and the 400/4-speed one had 67,000 miles on it. Otherwise, they were both in excellent condition. However, any Pontiac collector will tell you that a 400/4-speed late '70's T/A is worth way more than a 403 Olds/Automatic version, all other things being equal. At this same auction two 1964 Olds Cutlasses came through. One was a pristine F85 coupe, with the 330 V8/ Super Turbine 300 automatic ( The BOP two-speed "Powerglide" ) combo, and bucket seats, console, loaded. It sold for $6,500. The other had a later-model "unoriginal" 350 Olds engine in it, and it was only "driver" quality much like the previously mentioned Boss 302,-but it was a 442, with a four-speed!!. It sold for $3995!!  In my mind, I'd rather have a 4-speed 442 than a "powerslide" F85 any day of the week. For "Restifying" purposes you could swap in a 455 Olds and make it really badass. Or, if you wanted it original, a 1963-67 330 Olds engine is not a moon rock like a Boss 429 Ford or 426 Hemi Mopar! And on the resale market, numbers-matching engine or not, a 4-speed 442 is always going to be worth more than an automatic F85!  So who made the "better" deal?  The bottom line is do your research and don't lay down for the first car you see. You may save big bucks, and get a better car.  Mastermind      

Don't pay big dollars for junk!!

This sounds like a no-brainer, but you'd be amazed at the number of people I meet who paid top-dollar for something that not only is not numbers-matching, but is a thrown-together piece of junk. Let me explain-Case # 1. Guy was interested in a 70-81 Camaro, preferably a Z/28, but he'd settle for something less if the price was right. He was a customer of mine, knew about my knowledge of Musclecars, and that I was always willing to tell people if cars they were looking at were the real deal or not.  Yet, for some insane reason he brought the car to my shop to show it to me, AFTER he'd bought it and signed all the papers.  When he asked me what I thought, he was crushed.  The car was a 1970 Camaro, that I would call a "20 Footer". I.E.-it looked good from 20 feet away, but upon closer inspection it was a mess. It was blue with a white vinyl top. The color was the Bright Blue used on late '80's IROC-Z's, not any '70's color. And it was an "Earl Scheib" type job- a $300 quickie paint job with runs and orange peel all over it. The vinyl top was obviously new, but I could see that it had been slapped on with no prep-there were rust bubbles under it. It had a 350 and a 4-speed, although it was originally a six-cylinder,three-speed model, but I knew even before I checked the vin that the powertrain wasn't original. The 350 had both an EGR Valve on the intake manifold and an HEI distributor. GM didn't use HEI until 1975, and EGR wasn't used until 1973. The trans was a Saginaw 4-speed, but not the 2.54 low-gear ratio one that came in a lot of non-Z/28 Camaros and Small-block Novas with either a Hurst or Inland shifter. It was a 3.11 low-gear unit out of a Vega, that still had the horrible Vega shifter. Remember-the one with the trigger that you could never find reverse with?  I mean, the guy who built it couldn't spring 100 bucks for a decent Hurst or Mr. Gasket shifter? It had a custom-fitted carpet dash-cover velcro'd to the badly cracked dash, and the seats and door panels had been spray painted black with that horrible vinyl paint that auto parts stores sell for $2.99 a can.  It had nice tires on it, but they were mounted on Pontiac Rally II wheels. And he'd paid 6 grand for this shitpile!!  Case # 2 This moron wanted a late '70's Pontiac Trans-Am. After passing up a decent 400, 4-speed, T-Top equipped 77 Formula ( For $1,700!! )  This fool paid $2995 for a 77 T/A that I thought was quite underpowered when I drove it, even for an automatic with 2.41 gears. And the Shaker hood scoop didn't fit right. I looked under the hood and found the culprit. 77 T/A's either had 400 Pontiac motors in them, or California and High-Altitude models had 403 Olds engines. Those were the only two factory-installed engines that year.  This car had a 350 BUICK under the hood, and the reason the scoop didn't fit, is it had a two-barrel carb and air cleaner assembly!! I asked him didn't it seem odd that a Trans-Am couldn't even spin the wheels? Did the guy even open the hood when he was selling it? UGH!!  Case # 3 This idiot paid top dollar for a 1970 LT-1 Corvette. The vin showed it was an LT-1 car, but again, it didn't have the LT-1 engine. And again, I broke the sad news to the new and now suicidal owner AFTER the dummy had bought it. I knew as soon as he opened the hood. An LT-1 has a 780 Holley carb on an aluminum manifold. The 350 in this Vette had a Quadrajet on an iron manifold. Lt-1's have "2.02" heads with the "Camel-Hump" casting mark. These did not. LT-1s have the famous "Ram's Horn" exhaust manifolds, this one did not. "Why didn't you have me look over this car BEFORE you bought it?" I asked.  "I thought the guy was telling the truth." A Car salesman Lie? I never heard of such a thing.  The bottom line is, if you don't know, find someone like me who does, or go on the internet or buy a book like HP Books "Guide to GM Muscle Cars." Or Fords or Mopars. Even places like Borders have them, and you can order them from Summitt Racing or Amazon.com. Like the old saying- "Buyer Beware."  Mastermind  

There is no "Used Car Factory!!"

 I get sick of people moaning that they can't find the type of musclecar they want, and usually the problem isn't price. These people are too picky. They act like it's still the 1960's or 1970's and you can go to a local dealer and order your dream car.  Except you can't. These cars we love are all more than 30 years old, so the chance of you finding one that has the exact engine, transmission, axle-ratio, interior trim, and color scheme you desire is almost nil. There is no used car factory to order from. You think I'm kidding? Here's some true stories about people I know that DIDN'T buy very cool cars in good condition at reasonable prices, because They weren't "Exactly what I was looking for." Idiot # 1 wanted a 1970-72 Z/28 Camaro with the LT-1 engine. He passed on an unrestored, but exceptionally well-maintained '70 model because it was an automatic. He also passed up a gorgeous four-speed 72 model "Because it wasn't original." The problem? It had a set of headers on it, and a #4779 Holley 750 double-pumper carb on it instead of the original #3310 780!! Idiot # 2 wanted a 1965-66 Shelby GT350 Mustang. He passed up a slightly rough, but running and rust-free 66 GT that had the 225 hp 289, factory air, factory front disc brakes, the Rally-Pac guages, the "Pony" interior, and the original "California Megaphone" exhaust system with date-coded mufflers intact. For $2,500!! His objection? "It's still not a Shelby."  Idiot # 3 wanted a 1968-70 GTO with the 400/4-speed powertrain. He passed up a nice 68 model because it didn't have the hood tach or disc brakes. He passed up a great '70 model because it was an automatic. When he turned up his nose at a gorgeous 400, 4-speed, loaded, hood tach equipped Carousel Red Judge, I had to restrain myself from literally strangling him to death. His objection? "It's a fake." Mind you, this was a pristine 1969 GTO. Not a Tempest or LeMans that someone cobbled up, it was a for-real, numbers-matching 400/ 4-speed GTO. However It was not a Judge. The car dealer had bought it at a private auction, and figured he could get more money for it if it was painted like a Judge, and admitted this when we said we knew it wasn't a "Real" Judge.  But it was a "Real" GTO and it was a first-class paint job, and all the decals and emblems were in the right place. And the guy agreed to lower the price substantially if we wanted to make a deal. "It's a fake." my stupid friend said. I got angry. "This is the nicest GTO I've seen in years, and everything but the Judge paint job is correct." "And the price is right." "Christ, if your that anal, get the paint code from Pontiac historical services and paint it the original color!" "But your never going to find another car this nice, at this price!"  "It's still a fake."  That was 10 years ago, and he's still whining that he can't find a GTO. The bottom line is, you might have to lower your sights a bit, but you can still find a great car at a fair price if your reasonable about your expectations.  Mastermind      

Stop this Genocide!!

I've said it before, but I have to reiterate. I am sick to death of every enthusiast magazine on the market featuring classic GM Musclecars with modern Chevy LS motors, Vintage Mopars with 5.7 or 6.1L Hemis, and vintage Mustangs, Cougars and Torinos with fuel-injected 5.0 or 4.6/5.4 Modular motors. If you want an LS3 engined Camaro, SRT8 Hemi Challenger or mod-motored Mustang GT, then head to your local Chevy, Dodge or Ford dealer and buy one!! Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't care if someone put an LS3 Vette motor in a non-SS 2 dr Chevelle or Malibu, or even a Pontiac Tempest or Olds Cutlass. But there's apparently a lot of people out there with more money than brains!! One magazine featured a guy putting an LS7 ZO6 Vette motor and a Tremec 6-speed in a Pristine, Numbers-matching 1970 GTO Judge!!!  He couldn't find a beater LeMans to hack up? Another featured the same swap going into-in the magazine writer's own words- a "For-real Numbers-matching, four-speed 69 SS396 Chevelle. " Another featured a guy who bought a 1972 Trans-Am that "Was a show car in the '80's". He not only Chucked the rare and valuable 455HO engine and replaced it with an LS3 and modern six-speed automatic, he replaced the front subframe with an aftermarket unit and the 10-bolt bosi with a 9 inch Ford rearend!!  He couldn't bastardize one of the millions of beater 70-81 Camaros and Firebirds out there, no, it had to be one of the precious few remaining one of 1,286 72 T/A's ever built!!  Mopar idiots abound too. I have seen countless 68-70 Chargers and Super Bees with 6.1L Hemis in them, as well as several 1970 and 71 Challengers and Cudas with this conversion. Ditto for Fords. If I see one more 1965 Mustang with a 5.0/ T5 or 4.6/ Tremec 3650 drivetrain out of a '90's or 2000's Mustang, I'll committ Hari-Kari.  Admittedly, the "5.0s" are probably cheap enough now for the "Average Joe" to play with, but the other engines are so new, these guys aren't buying them for 500 bucks out of a junkyard, their paying 5,10 or 15 thousand dollars for these motors, PLUS all the electronics it takes to make them work!  Yes the new fuelie motors are awesome. But you buy something old because it's different from what's new. If you were a gun collector and bought a WWII vintage Colt .45, would you put Laser Sights on it?  If you were a motorcycle enthusiast would you buy a 1965 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide and put the Fuel-Injected Twin-Cam engine and six-speed tranny out of a 2010 Softail in it? If you were a guitar player, would you buy a 1962 Fender Stratocaster and put new pickups and a "Whammy bar" on it?  I figure 99% of the people reading this would say not only no, but "Hell no!!"  Then why in the world do people think it's ok to ruin classic cars? I'm not a "Just as it Left the Factory" Nazi. I know people modified their musclecars. That's fine as long as the mods are "Period Correct." A 67 GTO with headers, Cragar S/S mags, and an Edelbrock P4B intake is just as cool now as it was in 1968. I'm even cool with putting a stroker crank in that GTO and making the 400 a 455, for stealth horsepower and torque gains. But a 69 Camaro Z/28 with a TPI 350 or LS motor, 4L80E trans, DSE subframe and rack and pinion steering, a 9 inch Ford rearend and 4-wheel Brembo disc brakes is not cool, it's sick and wrong. Just had to vent. Mastermind            

Want an alternative Muscle Mopar? Get a "C" body!

With everyone fighting with machetes over A,B, and E bodies, finding one for sale at any price can be hard, regardless of your bankroll. You can still enjoy Mopar Muscle and at a lower price than the more sought after models. Here's some great examples.  #1 1969-78 Plymouth Sport Fury. I remember Peter Graves driving a '70 model on Mission: Impossible. Most had 383, 400 or 440 cubes under the hood and a ton of luxury options. Much like the 1969-76 Pontiac Gran Prix offered GTO-like performance in a luxury package, these cars offer a lot of "Bang for the Buck." 318 and 360 versions will be even cheaper, but are a little underpowered in these big cars. #2 1969-77 Dodge Polara / Monaco. "It's got a cop motor, a 440 inch mill." "It's got cop tires, cop brakes, cop shocks." These famous words by Elwood Blues never rang truer. Even if it's not an ex-police car, these models still have 383, 400 or 440 motivation, front disc brakes and comfortable interiors. The 2-door models are even good-looking. # 3 1969-77 Chrysler Newport. Same story- a big luxurious car with big power under the hood. Early '70's "Hurst" models are rare, but don't worry; their not bringing Six-Pack Road Runner prices. 1975-78 Chrysler Cordoba / Dodge Charger. Huh? a "Moldy 'Doba on this list? At this point in the '70's the Olds Cutlass and Pontiac Gran Prix were the best-selling cars in America. These cars were Mother Mopars answer. The horrific "Lean Burn" ignition systems and salt-flats gearing made them dogs. However, a lot of them have 400 or 440 cubes under the hood backed by a 727 and an 8 3/4 rear end. Trash the "Lean Burn" distributor and warped, bleeding over Thermo-Quad for a conventional electronic distributor and an Edelbrock AVS carb, and swap the 2.80:1 gears for some 3.23 or 3.55s and you'll have some fun. Something to think about if you want big fun for low bucks. Mastermind        

Need a replacement motor? Check out junk trucks!

 Like I said in a previous post, if your restoring a musclecar that is engineless, or the original one has irreparable damage-i.e- rods out the side of the block for instance, finding a replacement can be tough. Here'a an avenue that a lot of people don't think of. Because they were designed to haul and tow heavy loads, light and medium-duty trucks often had big engines. 440 V8s were available in Dodge pickups and motorhomes until 1978. 390 Fords weren't available in cars after 1970 or 71, but they were available in trucks until 1976. 454 Chevys weren't available in cars after 1975, but you could get a 454 in a Pickup, Suburban or motorhome well into the '90's. AMC 401s were available in Jeep Grand Wagoneers up until 1978 or 79, and 360's up until they quit building them in the late 80's.  A lot of '70's and early '80's GM motorhomes that aren't Chevy powered had 455 Olds engines. Even if your restoring something older-trucks are a good source for raw material. You may never find a 302 Chevy for your Z/28, but I bet you could find a 283 that can be bored to 301 cubes, or a 327 that you can put a 283 crank in just like the factory did in a 1960's Chevy or GMC truck. GMPP and several others sell these crank kits. Restoring a 409 Impala, but don't have a 409? 348s and 409s were used in a lot of medium-duty trucks-i.e.-dump trucks, garbage trucks, fire trucks etc, from 1958-65. Edelbrock is making aluminum heads for these engines now, as well as single and dual-quad intakes, and some companies or making crank and piston kits where you can turn a 348 into a 409, or a 409 into a 470! Restoring a really old Pontiac like a 57 Bonneville?  A lot of GMC trucks built before 1960 had 317, 347 or 370 inch Pontiac engines in them! And guess what? 99% of the people "restoring" these old GMC trucks are going to put small-block Chevys in them, so they'll dump the "worthless" ( It's not a 389 or 421 ) Pontiac motor for a song. You may just find a "Junkyard Jewel". Mastermind      

If you want to race it, "Crate" it!

A lot of us enthusiasts want to race our musclecars, but don't want to take the chance of throwing a rod out the side of a numbers-matching block. And I'm not just talking ultra rare stuff like a Boss 429. Even if you have an "Entry Level" musclecar-i.e.- a 396 Chevelle, 383 Road Runner or 400 GTO or Firebird, finding a replacement engine can be hard. Your local "U-pull-it" junkyard is not going to have a 1969 date-coded 383 Chrysler or 1967 coded 396 Chevy. Even if your not concerned about numbers-matching, and are going to "Restify"-aftermarket aluminum heads,etc, raw material can be hard to find. The last 400 Pontiac rolled off the assembly line in 1979. That's 32 years ago. The last 396/402 Chevy was built in 1972. The last 340 Mopar in 1973, 440 in 1978, and the last 390 Ford ( which can be bored and stroked to 428 ) was made in 1976, the last 351 "Cleveland" in 1974. What to do? GM, Ford and Chrysler all offer high-performance crate motors at reasonable prices. GMPP has small-block Chevy crate engines in 350 and 383 cubic inch models with horsepower ratings from 290 to 425.  They offer Big blocks from 454 to 572 cubes with horsepower ratings from 425 to 720! Those'll get you down the quarter quick, and most have a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty! Mopar Performance offers 360s with 380 hp-more than even the 340 Six-Pack. They also offer 500 inch wedge ( 440 style ) engines with 505 hp, and Hemis from 426 to 528 inches with horsepower ratings from 465 to 610. Ford Racing offers 302 and 347 inch small-blocks that look like a 289, but have horsepower ratings from 285 to 450. They have 351Ws with 385 hp, as well as 392 and 427 inch strokers based on the 351W. They offer big-blocks from 460 to 514 cubes with hp ratings from 486 to 650.  Put your numbers-matching engine in a plastic bag in your garage, install one of these badass crate engines and race to your hearts content. If it blows up, you have a warranty. Even if you grenade it after the warranty has expired, replacement parts or even another engine might be a little spendy, but not like trying to find say- a running or at least rebuildable 1970 440 Mopar "core."  Mastermind        

Keep it Running Right!

 I talk to a lot of people who spend a lot of money restoring their musclecars, and then are disappointed in the car's performance. Here's some simple tips to avoid the mistakes that cause this problem. # 1 Cars were meant to be driven. A lot of people don't drive their musclecars every day, or even once a week or once a month. If the car sits for long periods of time, the gas can go bad, water can get into the fuel system. If they do start it occasionally, they let it idle for five minutes "To keep the battery charged", but they don't drive it for even 5 or 10 miles, because they don't want to put "Too many miles on it." This is bad.  If the car is never going to see the high side of 3,000 rpm and only be idled on and off of the trailer or around the block, then you should go a range or two hotter on the plugs. If you decide to take it on a trip or to the drags changing the plugs to the recommended heat range only takes a few minutes. Which brings up...  #2 Leave the carburator(s) alone!!! People spend thousands of dollars building a killer motor and then drive it like my grandmother on prozac because their afraid of blowing it up. It's bad enough on 4bbl cars, but it's really rampant on Tri-power Pontiacs, and Corvettes, Six-Pack Mopars, Dual-quad Hemis, and 409s etc. They never run it through the gears to even 4,500 rpm much less the redline. Then the second it fouls a plug, they start screwing around with the carbs. Pretty soon it won't even start, much less run to it's full potential. It's worth a few bucks to have the car professionally tuned- I don't mean your brother who thinks he's a mechanic-I mean a real shop with a scope, an infrared exhaust analyzer, carb synchronizer or even a dyno. Then leave it alone!! If it fouls plugs, drive it faster, or go one range hotter.  # 3 Tune the ignition properly. I see this all the time. The timing is way advanced or retarded, the points are closing up, the vacuum advance is unplugged or inoperative, they have bad plug wires, etc. Even on a mild, stock engine, bad tuning can cost you 30 or 40 hp and 3-4 mpg.  # 4 Be careful with "Upgrades".  For example- You buy a nice 1977 "Smokey and the Bandit" Trans-Am. It has T-tops, automatic, power everything. You decide when rebuilding the 400 to install the legendary "Ram Air IV" cam and make it really rock like your buddy's 1969 Judge. You get it done, and it won't idle, and doesn't even have the power it did before you rebuilt it. The T/A with 8.0:1 compression, an automatic and 2.56:1 gears is killed by the big cam and falls on its face every time you step on it. Why? Well, the 400 in your pals 69 GTO has a 10.75:1  compression ratio, and is backed by a 4-speed and a 3.90:1 or 4.33:1 axle-ratio. There's a reason the RAIV was only available with 3.90 or 4.33 gears! The 231/240 duration (At .050 lift) cam has a lot of overlap and bleeds off a lot of cylinder pressure ( Ok with nearly 11.0:1 compression) and trades low-end torque for top-end rush. You should have bought a mild cam that builds low-end and mid-range torque like the Edelbrock Performer. It has 204/214 duration, builds cylinder pressure and "fools" the engine into feeling like it has a higher compression ratio, and works with higher axle gears like 2.41-3.08. Or if you just had to have the big cam, you should have raised the compression, installed at least 3.42 or 3.73 gears and a 2,500 rpm stall converter. The same for carb/intake combos. It's better to err on the side of caution. If a pure stock Firebird can run 11.80's with an iron manifold and a Quadrajet, why do you need an 850 Double-Pumper and a "Victor Jr." intake?     # 5 Be reasonable about your expectations. I had a friend who had a nice 440/Six-Pack Super Bee. He swore the car ran "Very low 13s or Very high 12s." He got this idea from an old Car Life road test where Mopar engineers had then Pro Stock champion Ronnie Sox pilot a prototype 440/6 Road Runner to a string of  13.10s in the 1/4, with the best being a 12.93. He did not want to hear that his car, sporting a Torqueflite, 3.23 gears and street tires, would likely run substantially slower than the 4-speed, 4.30 geared, drag-slicked test mule. When we did go to the drags, he was utterly shocked that his car ran a 14.10.  Like I said, with street rubber and 3.23 gears, I thought that was pretty good. He was crushed. Hope this helps everyone out!  Mastermind                  

The "Other" 350s!

   The Small-block Chevy is probably the most successful production engine in racing and hot-rodding history, and rightfully so.  However from 1968-1977 GM produced millions of Buick Skylarks and Centurys, Olds Cutlasses, and Pontiac LeMans and Firebird models with their own 350 cubic inch V8s.  These engines are largely overlooked because either stock or modified, their larger 400 and 455 brothers make substantially more power but cost no more to build, and will swap in with little or no fabrication. However, if you have or want to buy one of these cars, don't despair. With very little work you can increase their performance greatly, or maybe have some fun while you build a stompin' 455. Here's some tips that will really "wake up" any BOP 350 powered vehichle. # 1 Induction. 95% of these cars had 2bbl carburation from the factory. For about $500 bucks you can buy an Edelbrock Performer intake and matching 4bbl carb. With this one single modification, the car will not only run substantially faster, but get better gas mileage as well. Pontiac owners on a budget have it easier because the factory iron Q-jet manifolds that came stock on 1967 and later 400s, 428s and 455s will also fit 350s. The 350 and 403 Olds manifolds interchange, but the 400/425/455 ones do not fit 350s. Ditto for Buicks. The factory made some 4bbl 350 Buicks, but unlike the Pontiacs, the intakes from the 430/455 series don't fit. If you can find a factory iron manifold at a junkyard or swap meet, that's great, but you have to remember that all of these engines have been out of production for more than 30 years, so used parts may be scarce. You may just have to bite the bullet and buy the Edelbrock setup. # 2 Exhaust. 99% of these cars had restrictive single-exhaust systems. Even if you can't afford or don't want headers, you can pick up 20-25 hp and a couple miles per gallon by adding a free-flowing dual exhaust system behind the stock manifolds.  # 3 Axle-ratio. Most of these cars had salt-flats gearing like 2.56:1 or 2.73:1. Installing 3.23 or 3.42 gears will greatly improve acceleration without adversely affecting fuel economy too much. Don't go wild and think 4.11s or 4.56s will be even better- They won't. These engines don't make power above 5,000 rpm, and don't have the heads,cam or valvetrain to rev to 6,500 or 7,000 that 4-series gears would require.  #4 Transmission. Most of these cars had Turbo 350 automatics. B&M, TransGo and other companies make shift improver kits and adjustable modulators that cost less than $50 and are easily installed. Set your full-throttle shift points between 4,400-5,200 rpm.  These mods will make the car feel like it has another 50 cubes under the hood, for very few bucks. I hear the question- what if someone did add aftermarket heads, cam, nitrous etc? My question is this-if you have that much money and need to go that fast, why wouldn't you build a 455 instead of a 350?  Mastermind                    

It's ok to "Upgrade!"

 I talked to a customer of mine who wanted a 1968-70 "Bullitt"/"Dukes of Hazzard" Charger.  He found an original, literally one-owner little old-lady low-mileage example, that was unrestored, but well-maintained and had very little rust. And the old lady had no Idea what the car was worth, it was underpriced, if anything. He almost didn't buy it until I slapped some sense into him! His objection? It had a bench seat and a two-barrel carb on the 383!!  "Look, dummy-" I said-ever my tactful self- "You can put a 4bbl carb and intake either factory or aftermarket on in about an hour." "Same if you want bucket seats." "Legendary interiors sells replacements, that look dead-on factory." "Then it wouldn't be completely original." "Who cares?" I said. "Save the old parts in case you ever want to sell the car to someone really anal, and they can put it back if they want." "But don't go pay another five grand for another car that has a "Factory" 4bbl, when you could put an Edelbrock intake and matching AVS carb on this one for $500!!". Another customer of mind voiced the same objection about a really nice 1972 Mustang Mach 1 that had a 351 Cleveland with a two-barrel on it. I told him I'd even install a Performer intake and 600 cfm matching carb for him, and the car would not only run faster, but probably get better gas mileage! And, that he wasn't "Compromising" the value of the car. Same for a guy who hated the awful Muncie shifter on his 327/4-speed 68 Camaro. I told him most people put Hurst Competition Plus shifters in these cars the day after they bought them, and no one would care if he did the same to his. Just save the original shifter, if for some perverse reason a future prospective buyer actually wanted it!!  The same for paint. It's your car-paint it any color you want.  If you sell your now Carousel Red 69 GTO to some "Just as it left the factory type" , he can spend a couple grand painting it Verduro Green again if he wants to! But I wouldn't drive a car painted an ugly color I hated just because it's "Original".  Hope this helps put things in a reasonable perspective. Mastermind  

Can't find your dream car? Build it!

 Premium musclecars can not only be expensive, sometimes even if money is not a problem, finding the car you want for sale, at any price, can be a problem. Want a Ram Air IV Trans-Am? Build it! You can buy a base-model Firebird, and with the aftermarket's help, buy the trim pieces to turn it into a T/A. Ditto for the engine. If you have a 400 Pontiac block, the aftermarket can supply the rest. Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads are patterned after the legendary factory RAIV heads! The matching Performer RPM cam has the same duration and lift-308/320 and .470 lift with 1.5 rockers and .520 with 1.65 rockers. The RPM manifold won't clear the Shaker scoop, but the "regular" Performer manifold will, and works as good as the factory aluminum RAIV/455HO intake. A set of round-port headers, a 4-speed and 3.73 gears and your rockin'. Or an automatic with 3.73 or stiffer gears and a 2,500 converter. It's not totally original, but when you give a smug late-model Hemi Charger or Mustang GT owner a history lesson, you won't care! Speaking of Hemis-Mopar Performance sells complete 426 Hemi crate engines rated at 465 hp-40 more than the original. Yes, they cost about 15 grand, but if you can do the installation labor yourself and you spent say 20 grand on a decent 383 Road Runner, you now have your dream Hemi Road Runner for 35 grand!! Not cheap, or original, but way better than the $150,000 -250,000 "Numbers-Matching" Hemi cars are bringing even in this recession.  It would be pretty easy to turn a simple 1965-68 289 Fastback Mustang into a Shelby GT350 clone at about a fifth of the price of a "Real" one.  Want a Boss 302? Or Boss 351 Mustang? Buy a 1969- 70 or 1971 Mustang Fastback. Edelbrock and Trick Flow sell Aluminum "Clevor" heads-i.e.- "Cleveland" heads that bolt on to a "Windsor" block, and matching intake manifolds so you can build a "Mock" Boss 302 or Boss 351 engine!. Since it's not rare or original, you won't care about racing it, or blowing it up, so you can really have some fun.  Chevy man? Forget trying to build a faux-LS6, how about a GMPP 720 hp solid-roller 572?!!  Might be the only way for some of us to realize our dream of owning an "Ultimate" musclecar! Mastermind  

Don't "Over Restore" your car!

 Here's where a lot of people spend a lot of unnecessary money, and then are shocked to find that they can't sell the car for anywhere near what they've got invested in it. Here's some tips to avoid this problem.   # 1 "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."  I know a guy who replaced the power steering pump even though it wasn't making noise, didn't leak, and worked perfectly. He replaced the alternator and starter even though they worked perfectly and bench-tested fine. He replaced the radiator even though it didn't leak, wasn't clogged up and cooled the engine fine, even in 95 degree weather. I could go on, but you get the point. He spent a lot of money replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced, that drove his restoration cost way up, but didn't increase the value of the car.  # 2 Not having the original engine is not always a bad thing. If your restoring a 1969 Z/28, and it doesn't have a "DZ" 302 in it, yes that greatly reduces the value of the car. However if your restoring a 1973 Camaro that had an L48 350 to begin with, and has an L48 out of say, a 76 Impala, I wouldn't panic. The L48/LM1 was the "Bread and Butter" 350 that was installed in millions of Chevrolet cars and trucks from 1969-1985. GMPP still sells these as "Long block" replacements to this day. Your not losing value by not having a numbers-matching block, because the original engine wasn't special and wasn't worth anything to begin with! Same thing applies to other makes- Yes, a "Boss 302" without the Boss 302 engine is severely handicapped. But a base model 64-68 Mustang with an "Unoriginal" 289 or 302 has not had it's value compromised. A 69 Judge without the RAIII engine is compromised, a 72 Firebird Esprit without the original 350 2bbl Pontiac engine is not. See what I'm saying?  # 3 Modified is not always a bad thing, as long as the modifications are "Period correct."  Your 68 Road Runner is not "Ruined" because it has Cragar S/S mags and headers on it.  A 68 Z/28 with a Fuel-injected LS motor out of a 2008 Corvette, 4L80E overdrive tranny, rack and pinion steering, and 20 inch wheels is an abomination.  Unless you compete in concours shows where the hose clamps matter, Your 1970 LS6 Chevelle is not "ruined" because it has a #4779 750 Double-pumper Holley carb on it instead of the original #3310 780!!  See the difference?  # 4 Again, unless your competing in concours, It's perfectly ok to "Add" options when restoring a car. A few examples-You bought a 1978 Pontiac Trans-Am. It has Rally II wheels on it, but you really like the "Snowflake" design that was offered from 1977-81. Year One sells reproduction "Snowflake" wheels in the original 15X8 size and in 17X9. Who or what would be hurt if you put the Snowflake wheels on your car?  You buy a 1966 GTO with a 4bbl 389. You find a Pontiac Tri-Power setup for sale on E-Bay. Again, who or what is hurt by you putting the 3x2 setup on your car? In fact, even though it's not original, you actually increased the value of the car by putting the Tri-power on it!   # 5 It's ok to "Upgrade" a base model. If you buy a 318, 3-speed 1970 Challenger, and you drop in a 340 and a 4-speed, guess what? You didn't decrease the value of the car, you increased it!  If you buy a 326 or 350 powered Pontiac Firebird and swap in a 400 or 455, trust me, the car is worth more, not less. If you added a Formula hood, or T/A Shaker hood and spoilers, that's even better, as long as you don't try to pass it off as original.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind              

Mid-level models that both cool and priced right

 Not everyone can afford the top-of-the-line model of their dream musclecar. However, if you lower your sights a tad, you can find a great bargain and a car you will enjoy for years to come.  # 1 1970-79 Firebird Formula 400. These cars had the engine and the suspension of a Trans-Am without the gaudy bodywork and graphics. A lot of magazine writers of the '70's said they preferred the Formulas for this very reason. Today, you can buy them for a lot less than a same-year T/A.  # 2 1970-79 Rally Sport Camaro. While they never had the LT1 or L82 350s that the 70-74 Z/28s did, you could always get the L48 350 4bbl, a four-speed stick or Turbo 350 automatic, and F41 ( i.e.- Z/28 front and rear sway bars ) suspension. You can find these for a fraction of the price of a Z/28.  # 3 1969-70 Ford Mustang Mach 1. Boss 302, Boss 429, and 428CJ versions are rare and priced in the stratosphere, but Ford built over 70,000 fastback Mustangs in 1969 alone, most with 351W power. In 1970 they switched to the 351 "Cleveland" V8 which isn't a bad thing. There is still a ton of aftermarket parts available for these engines. Good Mustangs are never cheap, but these versions are still less than half of what the premium models bring.  # 4 1971-72 LeMans Sport and "Luxury LeMans" models. These cars had the "Endura" ( read GTO ) front end, and 400 cubes under the hood. A few had 455s!. Again, probably not dirt-cheap, but still way less than a same-year GTO or SS Chevelle.  #5 1971-73 Mercury Cougar. Most had 351C power, cool interiors, more luxury options, and are way cheaper than a same-year Mustang.  # 6 1974-80 Corvette. You rarely hear the words "Corvette" and "Cheap" in the same sentence, but I have seen decent examples of these cars on the internet and on used-car lots for as low as $2995! No they don't have the pavement-ripping performance of the earlier big-block models, but they are still a screaming bargain. Try to find a Rat-motored Vette in ANY condition for less than 20K!  There is more speed equipment available for 350 Chevys than anything else on the planet, so increasing horsepower is not a problem, or you could swap in a big-block easily.  Something to think about if your on a limited budget. Mastermind                  

Mistakes you don't want to make!

In the "Heat of the Moment" people sometimes get excited and make bad decisions when buying a Musclecar. Here's some tips to avoid falling into this trap and buying something that you can't finish, or that you can't sell for anywhere near what you have invested. # 1 A "Deal" isn't always a deal. Especially if the car in question needs work beyond your capabilities-i.e.-a bent frame, major rust repair, or water or fire damage. In cases like this, your most likely better off by just spending more money and getting a better car to start with.  #2 A super-rare car missing major components- A Hemi car missing the Hemi engine, or a fuel-injected Corvette missing the fuel-injection system are good examples-is not a good deal, because unless your an NBA # 1 draft choice or a lottery winner, the cost of procuring an original replacement engine or other rare parts would be so prohibitive, that if you restored the car, you'd never be able to sell it for what you've got in it. Which brings up the next 2 points.  # 3 No matter what it is, there's always one cheaper- At the last "Hot August Nights" auction I attended a guy didn't sell his fully restored 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A for the high bid of $32,000 because he had 40 in it. The same day another Challenger T/A that was also numbers-matching and almost as nice, sold for $24,000! The same weekend a nice 1969 Shelby GT350 Mustang sold for $44,500. Another one didn't sell for $75,000. Gee, I wonder why? # 4 Base models are cheap for a reason. If you want to play with a Tempest or base-model Firebird that's fine, but don't expect GTO or Trans-Am money when you try to sell it.  # 5 Step-down engines aren't valuable, their just weird. A 1967 GTO with a 265hp 2bbl 400 is not collectible. Ditto for 1972-77 Olds 442s with 260 and 350 cube Olds motors instead of 403s or 455s, 1977-79 Firebird Formulas and Trans-Ams with 301s instead of 400s, and 1980-81 Corvettes and Z/28s with 305s instead of 350s, to name a few. They may be rare, but why would you want one?  A musclecar that can't outrun your mom's Honda Accord?  # 6 "Year before" models aren't cool or collectible. Some examples- I'd much rather have a 400 cube 1965 Olds 442 than a 330 cube 1964 model. A 1968 Road Runner is better than a 1967 Belvedere, even if they both have 383 V8s. 1982 Mustang GTs with 2-barrel 302s and four-speeds, are not cool when 1983 models got 4bbls and 5-speeds! Cross-Fire Injected 1984 Corvettes are not cool when 1985-91 models had the much more powerful Tuned Port Injection system. # 7 The same goes for "Year After" models-i.e 1973 SS Chevelles instead of 1964-72s. 1980 Pontiac Trans-Ams with 301 Pontiacs or 305 Chevys instead of the 400 Pontiac or 403 Olds engines. 1978 Cutlass or Monte Carlos as opposed to 1973-77s that were the scourge of NASCAR.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind                

Cool '60's rides that are under the radar!

While everyone fights with machetes over 64-72 GM A-bodies-i.e.-GTOSs, 442s, SS Chevelles, 68-70 Chrysler B bodies-Road Runners, Chargers, Super Bees and GTXs, and 64-70 Mustangs, if you know what to look for there are some awesome cars you can find for way less than the traditional musclecar choices. # 1 1962-64 Ford Thunderbird. Often called the "Bullet Bird" because of the shape of the rear fenders, these cars are way cool in coupe or convertible trim. I could see Frank Sinatra driving one. With 390 cubes under the hood, they move as good as they look.  Probably not cheap, but still less than what most people ask for restored Mustangs. # 2 1963-65 Buick Riviera. Bill Mitchell's masterpiece. Futuristic styling that turns heads even 40+ years later, Cadillac like luxury and 401 cubes under the hood. Patrick Swayze drove two of them in the movie "Roadhouse".  #3 1966-67 Dodge Charger. Snubbed by everyone in favor of the wildly more popular 1968-70 "Dukes of Hazzard" model, these cars are cool even if your not a Mopar collector. Swoopy fastback, hidden headlight styling, unique 4-bucket seat interior, and long wheelbase make them comfortable cruisers even now. Forget Hemi versions, you can't afford one without selling your house; also avoid 318 versions-their the "Old" 318-nothing in common with the later LA or Magnum small-blocks, and they have the double curse of no power and crappy gas mileage. The 361 and 383 versions are the ones to have. Their a big-block and run pretty good stock, or there is a ton of aftermarket speed equipment out there for these engines, or a 440 would swap in very easily. # 4 1967-68 Pontiac Gran Prix. The last "Big" GP-in 1969 they switched to the A-body (Chevelle, Monte Carlo, Cutlass, LeMans ) chassis.  Like the Charger these cars had cool fastback, hidden headlight styling and roomy interiors, as well as 400 or 428 cubes under that long hood. Ray Liotta drove a 68 model in "Goodfellas".  # 5 1966-70 Olds Toronado. Space-shuttle styling and Caddy-like luxury. If you live where it snows, the convenience of front-wheel drive. Don't scoff-with 425 or 455 cubes under that long hood, these 4400lb cars could still rocket down the 1/4 in 15 flat!  Like the one driven by George Stark in "The Dark Half"- A high toned son of a bitch!  Mastermind    

"Executive" Hot Rods that are under the radar!

Way back in 1968-69 when they were first introduced, the 455/Turbo 400 powered Hurst/Olds was billed as an "Executive's Hot Rod." Unique,exclusive, fast enough to back up the image, and with some luxury too.  As opposed to "strippy" Road Runners, SS396 Chevelles, GTOs, etc. Their are a few cars that fit this criteria from the late '60's and '70's that can be bought for a lot less than "Traditional" muscle cars, and still deliver a lot of "Bang for the Buck." # 1 1971-73 Buick "Boat-tail" Riviera. Racy styling, a ton of cool factory options and 455 power standard all years.  # 2 1969-76 Pontiac Gran Prix. Based on the A-body platform, any aftermarket suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Chevelle also fit these cars. 400 power standard all years, and a fair number of 1970-76 "SJ" models had 455s!  My sister had one of these cars. It had power everything, and it felt like a GTO!  # 3 1967-71 Ford Thunderbird. Racy, futuristic styling, luxurious interiors, and big power make these cars cool. 390, 428 or 429 cubes under that long hood makes them move pretty good too. 1972 and later models had 460s, but the engines were low-compression and way down on power, and the squarish body was based on the much heavier and uglier Lincoln MKIV platform.  # 4 1977-79 DKM "Macho T/A". Brothers Dennis and Kyle Mecham of Mecham Pontiac in Arizona built and sold about 300 a year of these hotted up T/A's. The buff magazines of the day loved them. They featured a special graphics package, headers and dual exhaust (with 2 catylitc converters) a rejetted carb, and recurved distributor, that was supposed to add 50 hp. Options included Recaro seats, Doug Nash 5-speeds, shift kits for automatics, stiffer rearend gears, aftermarket tires and wheels, and even a Turbocharger. They died out when Pontiac dropped the 400 cube motors for 1980. A well-maintained or restored one will bring 10 grand or more, but that's still a lot less than any decent GTO, and a lot rarer.  # 5 1972-74 Dodge Charger  Richard Petty won a lot of races in this bodystyle. Mopar freaks snub these in favor of the 68-70 "Bullitt/ "Dukes of Hazzard" style, or the 71s which still had high-compression Hemis and Six-Pack 440s optional. Compression and power was down on 72 and later models, but you could still get a 400 ( a bored-out 383 ) or a 440 4bbl. 340 and 360 versions can be real bargains, and make nice drivers.  Mastermind                

Consider a "Disco Era" F-body!

 A lot of people think anything built after 1971 is not a real musclecar because of lower compression ratios, decreased horsepower ratings and ever-tightening emission controls. However there are two cars that kept the breed alive in the darkest days. If not for these vehichles, and their great sales success, there never would have been 5.0 Mustangs, Buick Grand Nationals, LT1 Impala SS's and there certainly wouldn't be 400 hp Camaros, Challengers and Mustangs available off the showroom floor today! I'm talking about late 1970's Pontiac Firebird Trans-Ams and Z/28 Camaros. By 1975 the Challenger and Cuda were history as was the Javelin. The "Charger" was a rebadged ( Yuk!) Chrysler Cordoba. The Mustang II was a rebodied Pinto. Chevy even killed the Z/28 for 2 years ( 1975 and 76 ).  Here's where Chevrolet, Ford, Chrysler and AMC goofed big-time. Performance car buyers didn't all magically disappear after 1973, the automakers stopped making cars that they wanted to buy!!  Think about it- if you wanted a sporty rear-wheel drive car with a big V8, you had one choice- A Pontiac Trans-Am. Sure, the low-compression, catylitic converter choked 400s and 455s barely made 200 hp-a far cry from the 366 hp and 370 hp ratings of the RAIII and RAIV engines of 1970, and even paled when compared to the 300 hp 455 HO's and SD models of 1972-73. But, and it's a big "but" they were the coolest-looking and fastest new cars available AT THE TIME!  Sales doubled every year from 4800 units in 1973 to 10,000 in 1974, to 23,000 in 1975, to 46,000 in 1976!  "Smokey and the Bandit" wasn't released until 1977. That helped as T/A sales hit an all time high for the rest of the decade. Chevy realized their mistake and brought back the Z/28 in 1977. No, they didn't have fire-breathing LT-1s  anymore either. But you could a 350 4bbl with a 4-speed and a 3.73 geared posi rearend.  That was a helluva lot better than the 125 hp the 302 2V in the Mustang II offered, and way better than the 318s offered in the Dodge Aspens and Plymouth Volares that made Mopar fans wish they still made Dusters! And now, their still good buys, priced way less than the older models. And there a great base for a street machine. If you have a Camaro- GM Performance sells small-block "Turn-Key" crate engines with horsepower ratings from 290 to 425 hp that will literally bolt in. Edelbrock, Kauffman and Butler performance sell Aluminum heads, cams, intakes, stroker cranks and other parts for Pontiac engines. Building a 500 hp 455 Pontiac is easier than it's ever been in history. So stop searching the galaxy for a 1967-72 Camaro or Firebird, and "steal" one of the later ones while you still can! Mastermind    

Full-size drop-top cool!

Especially on nice spring or summer days we all sometimes think how nice it would be to have a nice, fast, comfortable convertible. If your over about 5'9" this pretty much eliminates old MGs and Triumphs, and even newer stuff like Mazda Miatas or Honda S2000s. And Musclecars? A well-maintained or restored GTO, 442, Mustang/Cougar, Camaro/Firebird, or Cuda/Challenger ragtop can be priced in the stratosphere. Ditto for base models-i.e.- non-SS Chevelle ragtops, Tempest/LeMans, Cutlass, Satellites,and Coronets can all be priced exorbitantly. However, the "Big Three"- GM, Ford and Chrysler, all produced a lot of "Big" cars with drop-tops that can be bought for a fraction of what their "Muscle" brothers can. Impala convertibles can be nice drivers, but 99% of them have small-block motivation. Look for Pontiacs, Buicks, and Oldsmobiles from 1965-75. Bonneville, Catalina and Grand Ville convertibles in this era will all have 389,400,428 or 455 power under the hood. Olds 88 and 98 drop-tops will have 425 or 455 cubes under their long hoods. Buick LeSabres, and Electras will have 430 or 455 cubes for power. Since these cars were considered top of the line and were fairly expensive when new, they'll have a ton of luxury options like factory air, tilt wheel, power windows, cruise control etc, that make them exceptionally nice drivers now, just as they did when new. The same for Fords. Look for Galaxies, LTDs, and Mercury Marquis models. Most will have 390 cubes under the hood, except for 72 and later models which will have 429s or 460s! Mopar guys can look for Chrysler Imperials, Dodge Monacos, and Plymouth Furys. Most will have 383 or 440 power and "Rich Corinthian Leather."  These cars won't be cheap, depending on condition, you'll probably have to spend anywhere from $5,000 to $15,000 for a good one, but that's a helluva lot less than the $25-$100,000 that good traditional muscle car ragtops bring. Might be a nice way to enjoy spring fever!  Mastermind

Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's cool!!

There's a reason that the popular muscle cars bring premium prices now, just like they did when they were new.  The reasons are they had awesome, unique styling, cool options, and performance to back up the image. Yet I see and talk to a lot of people who have no clue what is or isn't cool, and spend money restoring some undesirable car, and then try to explain to everyone else why it's cool. ( When they really aren't )  Some rampant examples- # 1 4-door 55-57 Chevys. The only people that wanted these new, were taxicab companies and people with lots of kids. The only thing their good for now is parts cars for people restoring 2 doors!!  Didn't any of you people see "American Graffiti?" The badass '55 driven by Harrison Ford was a 2 dr!!!  I don't care how fast it is, your still a dork in a 4 door Tri-5 Chevy, just like you would have been in say, 1959.  # 2  A 1965 Mustang is just as cool today as it was in 1965, maybe cooler. A 1965 Falcon is also exactly what it was in 1965. An ugly, ill-handling econobox that your grandfather would buy because it was cheap. They made good drag racers back in the day, because they were light, and you could swap in a 289 pretty easily. But if you want a cheap, light Ford drag racer, go buy a Fox-bodied 5.0 '80s or 90's Mustang for a couple grand and play with that. Because no one cares about them and haven't for 45 years, there's no parts available, so restoring a Falcon ( Why?!!! ) would cost almost as much as restoring a Mustang, yet the Mustang would have about 25 times the resale value, either junk or restored!!  # 3 Don't try to sell me on a "Wrong" year car, even a base model!! There's a reason that there so much cheaper than their more popular brothers.  Examples- a 1963 Pontiac Tempest, even to Die-hard Pontiac collectors is not worth anywhere near what a 1964 is.  A 1958 Ford Thunderbird is worth nowhere near what the 55-57's are! A 1973 Chevelle, be it small or big-block is not worth what the 1968-72 models are!  # 4 The 1968-74 Javelin/AMX is the only valuable musclecar produced by American Motors. The rest are just old "Ramblers". Sorry, Hurst/SC Rambler, and "Rebel Machine" owners, I don't set nationwide vintage car values, the buying public does, and the cold,hard fact is your cars aren't the equivalent of a Hurst/Olds or an LS6 Chevelle!!  # 5 There are no "Area 51" cars!!! By this I mean cars that idiots that don't know anything say exist, but no one has ever found one, and no factory rep has ever authenticated one!  A few Examples- There never was a GTO Station Wagon. In 1971-72, you could get the LeMans "Sport" endura front end on a wagon, and of course 400 and 455 engines were available. If you see one with GTO emblems or a Hood tach, it's because some moron installed them.  There were only 295 SD-455 Pontiac engines built in 1973, and they were all installed in Firebirds. 252 in Trans-Ams, and another 43 in Formulas. Early 1973 sales literature listed the engine as optional in the GTO, Gran Prix, Grand Am, and LeMans, as well, but emission and production problems limited them to being certified only in the F-bodys. Your 455 powered GP or Grand Am may be fast, but it has the L75 "station wagon" motor. Trust me. The Rallye 350 1970 Cutlass was not "Almost the 1970 Hurst/Olds". Hurst performance had nothing to do with their development, beyond the fact that 4-speed models may have had Hurst shifters. They are also not a "442" in any way, shape or form. All 1970 442s had 455 V8s standard. The W30 455 was an option. The "Rallye 350s" were built as an "Insurance Beater" on the base model Cutlass, just like the T-37 Pontiac Tempest is not a GTO. All 3,527 models had the generic 310hp 350 4bbl that was available in any Olds model. No one has ever documented one having the vaunted "W-31" 350. All of those were in installed F85 or Cutlass "S" models. The "Boss 351" Mustang was a one-year only package in 1971. They had solid-lifter cams, 11.3:1 compression, and were grossly under-rated at 330hp, and were only available with a 4-speed. In 1972 and 73, the top engine option was called either 351HO or 351CJ, ( meaning "High Output" or "Cobra-Jet") but they had 8:1 compression ratios, hydraulic cams, were rated at 266hp and could be had with a stick or automatic. There were no Hemi Cars built after 1971!! And I'm 99.9% sure that the same goes for 440 Six-Packs. The 440/Six-pack option was listed in early 1972 sales literature, but was ultimately cancelled because of problems passing emissions. I have heard rumors that a few very early productions Road Runners and Chargers ( less than 20 ) "Slipped" through, but I have never seen one, or seen one documented by a magazine or former Chrysler engineer.  Just had to vent. Mastermind                              

Insanity!

I read an article in an enthusiast mag about a guy who claimed to have $14,000 invested in the rear axle of a Yenko Camaro he restored to make sure it was "Absolutely Correct."  That's not a typo, I said $14,000, not $1,400!!  To put it in perspective, if you like motorcycles that's the price of a brand-new Harley Davidson Super Glide. If you want to buy a high-school or college-age kid a dependable, economical car, that's the price of a brand-new Hyundai Accent or Ford Ranger pickup. If you like modern muscle cars, that's the price of a low-mileage 2006 or 2007 Hemi Charger or Mustang GT in any state in the union.  And this guy spent that much on the rear end?!  If he had 14 grand in the rear end, what did he have in the whole car? 100 grand? 150? In any state but New York or California that's the price of a house! Muscle cars led hard lives. People raced, modified and wrecked them. Spare me the rhetoric about "Priceless" cars. Everything has a price, and that's what someone is willing to pay for it, million dollar Hemi Cudas during the craziness of a few years ago notwithstanding.  If  a Yenko Camaro could be documented to be an actual Yenko car, and had the original 427 in it, are you saying that if it had say,a brand-new replacement Moser 12-bolt housing, or one that came out of say, a 68 400 Firebird, the car would be worth 15 grand less on the auction or resale circuit?  Like Ditka says on Monday Night Football- "Come on, man!!" Just as in performance modifications, in "Originality", you hit a wall of diminishing returns. Let's not turn our hobby into another game that only the very rich can play in, like Yachting, or NASCAR racing.  Mastermind

Don't fall into "Gotta Haves"

 I talk to people all the time who spend unnecessary money on very expensive parts they don't need because they listened to some self-proclaimed "Expert".  Some examples. I have built, driven and raced small-block Chevys for over 30 years. Every time you read a magazine article about building one, they list a bunch of "Gotta Haves." "You gotta have a 4-bolt main block." "You Gotta Have a Forged Steel Crank." "You gotta have forged pistons." "You Gotta have screw-in studs in the heads." And a bunch more "Gotta haves" I can't remember.  Their half-right.  If your building a Nextel Cup NASCAR engine that has to turn 7,800 rpm for 500 miles at Daytona, yes, you need all the beef you can get. But, if your building a street machine, drag racer, or even a short-track roundy-rounder-i.e.- your tracks are 1/4 to 5/8 mile and your "Main events" are 35 or 50 laps, these "Experts" are full of crap. For drag racers-depending on class- your running hard for what- anywhere from 11 to 14 seconds? On a circle-track car on a typical 1/4 mile paved or dirt-track, even a 50 lap "Main Event" is only 12.5 miles. Two-bolt main blocks are fine for this kind of use. So are cast cranks, as long as revs don't go over 6,500 rpm. Cast pistons are fine. I've seen them last two whole seasons in an IMCA race car, so you should get plenty of wear in a street machine or "Hobby stock" racer. I would only recommend forged pistons if you were planning to run a blower or nitrous. And then my question is, if you have that much money and need to go that fast, obviously in some "unlimited" or "outlaw" class,  why aren't you building a 454 instead of a 350? In all my years of racing, I have never seen a stud pull out of a head, pressed in or screw-in. I have seen rocker arm failure, pushrod failure, valve spring failure, and timing chain failure, but I have never in 33 years seen a stud pull out of a head and cause someone to lose a race.  This extends to other parts and other makes. "You gotta have a 9 inch Ford Rearend."  "Their the toughest in the business." Again, in NASCAR going 200 mph for 500 miles, they don't want a bearing failure, or in a non-full-floater, an axle breakage at 200 mph that could wreck the car. However, in a drag race or circle track I've NEVER,EVER, seen anyone break a Chrysler 8 3/4 rear end.  Even with slicks and a manual trans, and popping the clutch on a 500 hp 440 a 4,500 rpm! But according to the "experts" that additional 1/4 inch on the ring gear makes a huge difference!!  Ditto for GM products. And I'm not talking the revered "12 Bolt" rear end.  I'm talking the 10 bolt that was in hundreds of thousands of GM cars from 1970-81. I have owned 400, 4-speed Trans-Ams and dropped the clutch at 3,500-4,000 rpm incessantly for five years and never broke the rear end. I've had 4-speed Z/28 Camaros, and rolled backward out of my driveway down a San Francisco hill, and while rolling backward, dropped the clutch at 4,000 rpm and smoked the tires all the way up the hill, every day for a year, without breaking the 10 bolt posi. Yes, if your running wrinklewall slicks with 10 psi of air in them bolted to the rims, and you have a 700hp big-block that your going to launch at 5,000 rpm either with a clutch or a trans-brake, then yes, you need a tough rear axle. But for 99.9% of the rest of us, it's overkill. Ditto for transmissions. "You gotta have a Turbo 400 automatic, or 727 Chrysler, or C6 Ford." Really? Because I know people who have raced Turbo 350s and C4s behind 500 hp motors for years with no problems. Again, if your running a 12:1 compression 572 Rat on Alchohol in a truck pull with 44 inch tires, yes, a race-prepped Turbo 400, if not an Allison, is a good Idea! But in a street/strip Camaro or Nova or Chevelle? Puhleeze.  So save your money, unless your building an absolute monster. Mastermind                  

Consider a "Muscle Truck".

Back in the dark days of the mid- late '70's If you wanted a big-block muscle car you had one choice- a Pontiac Trans-Am, and even then the strongest one put out 220 hp. The Road Runner, Charger, Cuda and Challenger, and Javelin were all gone by 1975. The Mustang II was more Pinto than Mustang, and the available V8 was a 302 2V that put out about 135 hp. No more Rat-motored Corvettes, a 350 was the largest engine available, and some years people in California couldn't even get a 4-speed. Even the Z/28 took a two-years hiatus ( 1975 and 76 ).  However because of  GVW ratings and different emissions rules for trucks, Right up until 1978, you could get a 454 with real dual exhausts ( No Catylitic Converters ) A Turbo 400 and a 3.73:1 Posi in a half-ton 2wd Chevy or GMC Pickup. Ditto for Mopar fans. A D150 with a 440, 727 and 3.55 or 4.10 geared Dana 60 could be bought off the showroom floor.  Ford guys weren't left out either, you could get a 460 with catlyst-free pipes and a C6 in an F150.  The trend was revived in the '90's by Chevy and Ford, at least. The original SS454 was a short-bed 2wd truck with a sinister black paint job, fat tires, a fuel-injected 454, a Turbo 400, ( Later models had 700R4's) and 3.73 or 4.10 gears. The early Lightnings had hotted-up 351s, lowered suspensions, fat tires, and cool interiors. Either truck could blast through the quarter in 15 flat, and still tow a 5,000 lb trailer. Later 98-03 Lightnings and "Harley Davidson" versions had Supercharged 5.4 liter mod motors putting out 380 hp, and lowered suspensions. GM didn't really have a "Sport Truck" option in these years, but you could get a half-ton with a tire frying 6.0 liter LS motor with 325 - 360 hp depending on year and model. Now you can get one with 403 hp 6.2 liter- basically the standard engine in the Corvette!  If you want something unique literally and figuratively "Hauls" this might be the way to go if you can't find or afford the classic Muscle machine  of your dreams. Mastermind.    

Obscure cars that are great buys!

Sorry I haven't posted in a few days, I was out of town! There are a lot of very cool cars that people don't think of as a "Mainstream Musclecar" but have great potential. I'll list them in no particular order. #1 1973-75 Pontiac Grand Am, 1977 Pontiac Can-Am. When The Grand Am was introduced it was supposed to have "The luxury of a Gran Prix, the performance of a Trans-Am." It tanked, as luxury buyers bought Gran Prix's and performance buyers bought Firebird Trans-Ams. However for used car buyers they are a screaming bargain. 400 power standard all years, with the 455 optional. Most had the bulletproof Turbo 400 for a transmission, but there were Muncie four-speed versions built as well. Wrist-thick front and rear sway bars, ( "Radial Tuned Suspension" ) and front disc brakes, make these cars incredible handlers for such a big car. Any suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Chevelle or Monte Carlo also fit these cars. Because of low sales, the model was dropped in 1976. Because of the phenomenal success of the Trans-Am, Pontiac tried again in 1977. The Can-Am was based on the A-body LeMans platform, and featured Radial Tuned Suspension, a 400 Pontiac or 403 Olds V8 ( Depending on whether you had Federal, California, or High-Altitude emissions ) and a Turbo 400 with a performance shift kit. The package also included a Trans-Am style "Shaker" hood, a unique rear spoiler, special graphics, and a Gran Prix dash. Their fairly rare, because Pontiac was selling so many Gran Prixs that there were production delays due to dash shortages. Then the molds for the spoiler broke, further delaying production. Pontiac collectors have driven the prices up some, but they are way cheaper than any GTO or even a restored same-year Trans-Am. It only lasted one year because in 1978, although the 400 cube motors were still available in the Firebird line, the GM A-bodies were greatly downsized, and renamed "G" bodies, and the largest engines available were 301 Pontiacs and 305 Chevys that put out about 145 hp. #2 1975-78 Plymouth Sport Fury/Dodge Monaco. They may have been emission-choked, but you could still get a 400 or 440 V8, a 727 Torqueflite, and an 8 3/4 rear end and sport suspension. "It's got a cop motor, cop tires, cop shocks, cop brakes..."  If you can find one, they are usually cheap, and have great performance potential. 2 dr models are actually pretty nice looking. # 3. 1974-76 AMC Matador 2 dr Coupe. The rounded, aerodynamic ( for the time ) fastback body actually had modest success in NASCAR, and you could still get a 360 or 401 V8 backed by a 727. # 4 2003-2004 Mercury Marauder. Because of the "Cult" following of the Impala SS, Ford came out with this model. Based on the Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, these cars had a 302 hp four cam V8 pirated from the Mustang Cobra, a high-stall converter in the four-speed automatic, a custom interior with Auto Meter guages, fat 18" tires and wheels and a sinister black paint job. For some reason, they weren't promoted by magazines, or Ford/Lincoln-Mercury dealers, and didn't sell well. But they are an awesome performance platform, and any blowers or speed parts designed for Mustangs or Lightning Trucks can easily be adapted to these cars. Dynamite!  Something to think about if you want something that not everyone else has!  Mastermind      

Want a bargain exotic? Consider a Corvette! Or a Pantera!

Every car buff lusts after Ferraris,Porsches, Lamorghinis, and Maseratis, but 99% of us will never be able to afford one, new or used. However, "America's Sports Car" can be a good substitute for a fraction of the price. Restored 427 Stingrays can bring six-figures, but small-block C3 and C4 versions are an incredible steal. I have seen 70's models on used car lots and on the internet for as low as $2,500. Four-speed and L82 models will be more expensive than that, but you can still find a nice one for under 10 grand. There is more speed equipment available for the 350 Chevy than any other engine in history, or you could swap in an aluminum-headed big-block easily. These cars also had 4-wheel disc brakes, and except for WS6 T/A's no other car of the '70's could come close in terms of handling. There are a myriad of suspension upgrades available from the aftermarket. The 1985-91 models are a quantum leap up in handling and braking, and were great performers at the time. I have seen these cars for sale as low as $3,500!  Corvette collectors snub these cars in favor of later LT1 or LS1 models, but they are a screaming bargain. 1984 Cross-Fire Injected models are kind of a pariah. They can be made to run but in order to do that most people replace it with a carburator or an aftermarket injection system. The 1985-91 Tuned Port Injected models are the bargains. Edelbrock and Accel offer ported manifolds and larger runners, and throttle bodies that work in conjunction with the factory systems, as well as Vortec and aftermarket heads. There are also cams, headers, computer chips, even blowers available for these cars that would easily make them show their taillights to those smug LS-motored later model owners. As for Panteras, they are often called the "Poor man's Lamborghini" by the automotive press. There were "Gray-Market" versions sold until about 1990, but the ones to look for are the 1971-74 models. They had the Ferarri-like styling of a Lamborghini Miuria or DeTomaso Mangusta, 351CJ Ford "Cleveland" motors mounted mid-engine, hooked up to a five-speed ZF transaxle, and four-wheel disc brakes. They are more expensive than the "Vettes- usually between $15-35K. But considering that a new Toyota Camry or Honda Accord is over $30,000, there still a great deal. Check for rust issues on the frames, but otherwise their pretty solid. There is a ton of speed equipment available for 351C Fords, and because the 351C has the same bellhousing pattern as the 429/460 family, you could swap in a 600hp 514 inch Ford SVT built stroker pretty easily. Any of these 3 cars offer great fun, still-cool head-turning styling huge "Bang for the Buck" and you don't have to be a movie star or NBA draft pick to afford one! Mastermind      

Alternative bodystyles that are way cool

Everyone wants a 64-72 GTO, SS Chevelle, 442, or 68-70 Charger or Road Runner or 64-70 Mustang. However, there are many cool cars out there that are undiscovered gems, that can be bought dirt-cheap. I'll list them in no particular order. # 1 1966-69 Buick Riviera. These cars had the swoopy, fastback,hidden headlight styling of the revolutionary Olds Toronado, but were still rear-wheel drive. With 430 cubic inches under that long hood, they moved pretty good too. Edelbrock and TA Performance make heads, cams, intakes, etc, for the Big Buicks, or ( Hey, your not cutting up a Hemi Cuda here ) you could swap in a snarling 572 inch 620 hp Chevy Rat. All you'd need is a Chevy bolt-pattern Turbo 400 and some Chevy motor mounts-practically a bolt-in. # 2 1969-76 Pontiac Gran Prix. 400 power standard all years, and a fair number of 70-76 "SJ" models had 455s!. My sister had a 72 GP in high school. That car had power everything and it felt like a GTO! She showed her taillights to many supposedly "fast" Camaros and Mustangs. Any suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Chevelle also fit these cars.  # 3 1969-72 Plymouth Sport Fury. I remember Peter Graves driving one on "Mission Impossible." Most had 383 or 440 power, and a ton of luxury options. # 4 1970-77 Chevy Monte Carlo. These cars were the scourge of NASCAR in the '70's. Small-block Montes make nice drivers, but for real street cred, you have to swap in a Rat. Not a problem. Again, any aftermarket brake or suspension upgrades that fit a Chevelle also fit these cars. # 5 1967-71 Ford Thunderbird. 390. 428 or 429 cubes for power,racy, Nascar-inspired styling and cool interiors make these cars awesome. 1972 and later models had 460s, but they were low-compression, and were based on the much heavier and uglier Lincoln Mark IV platform. # 6 1967-73 Mercury Cougar. Cougars of this vintage are usually a lot less expensive than a same-year Mustang, yet usually have way more good factory options-i.e. front disc brakes, factory air, upgraded interiors, and bigger motors. 67-70 models had 289,302, 351Ws or 390s in them. ( Forget 428 Eliminators, their so pricey you might as well be looking for a Boss 302 ) 1971-73 models had the venerable 351 Cleveland. The 1974-76 models had 460s, but again, they were based on the huge Thunderbird/ Lincoln MK IV platform and are way too heavy to be considered a muscle car.  Something to think about if you want to be different and save money. Mastermind    

Watch out for "Special Editions" that aren't special!

 We all lust after Shelby Mustangs, Superbirds, Judges, etc. Everyone wants a unique car. However, salespeople or just an individual selling a car try to tell buyers their looking at something really special. Here's some good advice to avoid paying way too much for a car that is neither rare, nor special. A few examples- Someone is selling a really nice 1967 Impala SS. It has bucket seats, full guages, tilt wheel, and the numbers match on the 327. That's great. However, Chevrolet produced 75,600 Impala SS models in 1967! Not exactly a moon rock. Now, if it was an original 427 version, of which they only built 2,124, and it had the original engine intact, that would be worth major bucks. But the small-block version? Uh-uh. Especially since the 1968 models were virtually identical and Chevrolet built another 38,210 that year! Another is black and gold "Special Edition" 1977-79 Pontiac Trans-Ams. Pontiac built over 250,000 T/A's in these three years, and largely because of "Smokey and the Bandit" thousands upon thousands had this color scheme. Of the 68,000 T/A's built in '77 alone, Over 15,000 were Black and Gold "SE's". Except for the paint job, and the gold dash panel, nothing is different from a regular T/A! Ditto for "Silver Anniversary" 1978 Corvettes. Thousands were built with the two-tone paint and silver leather interior. Otherwise, they are just a regular 'Vette. No special engine or anything. Another is the "Starsky and Hutch" Torinos. Because of the popularity of that T.V. show, Ford Dealers across the country painted 74-76 2dr Gran Torinos red with the big white stripe and put slot mags on them and sold them for exorbitant prices, but there was never an official version released from Ford!  The bottom line is, do your research and know what your looking at before you pull out your checkbook. Mastermind  

Just because it's rare, doesn't mean it's worth big bucks!

The title to this post says it all. We all want a unique car, but don't fall into the trap of paying ultra-premium prices for cars that are somewhat rare, and "Almost" special. Some were factory "Budget" or "Insurance Beater" models, some were regional or "Dealer" specials. Every manufacturer had at least one, some had several. Allow me to explain the difference between something that's worth the price of a nice house anywhere except New York or California, and something that's only worth a tiny bit more than a base model. I'll try to include all the examples. If I miss a couple, forgive me, or feel free to write in your candidates. A "California Special" Mustang is not worth anywhere near the price of a Shelby GT 350 or Boss 302. A "Rallye 350" Cutlass is not a Hurst/Olds. A "Heavy Chevy" Malibu is not an LS6 SS454. A T-37 Tempest is not a GTO "Judge." A "Rally Nova" is not a Yenko "Deuce." A Javelin SST is not an AMX. A "Macho T/A" is not an SD-455 or Ram Air IV T/A or Formula. A "Sport Satellite" Or "Satellite Sebring"  is not a Six-pack Road Runner or GTX.  Also beware of later models that were the "Wrong" bodystyle with anemic engines that tried to capitialize on a classic name to sell a car that's performance and value wasn't even close to it's namesake when new, and certainly isn't now. Some examples. The last "Real" Hurst/Olds was built in 1975. That's the last one built on the GM A-body platform, and the last one available with a 455 V8. The one offered in 1979 was based on the downsized G-body platform and was only available with a 350 Olds engine that put out about 170 hp!. The 1983-84 versions were built on the same G-body platform, but had even more anemic 307 inch Olds motors!  The last "Real" Pontiac GTO was built in 1973. This was the last year they were based on the A-body LeMans platform, and the last year you could get a 400 or 455. The 1974 model was based on the X-body-( Read Chevy Nova ) platform, and could only be had with 350 Pontiac V8 . The last "Real" Road Runner was built in 1974, on the B-body platform, and you could still get a 400 or 440 V8. In 77 or 78, they marketed a "Road Runner" that was based on the Plymouth Volare, and was only available with a 318 or 360 that made 150 and 175 hp, respectively. The last "Real" i.e- Javelin-based AMX was built in 1974, and you could still get a 401 V8. In 78-79 AMC marketed an AMX, but it was based on the econobox Hornet/Spirit platform, and the only engine available was a 304 V8 with a two-barrel carb. The last thing to look out for is "Special Editions" that aren't really special or rare. A few examples-1978 "Silver Anniversary" Corvettes. There were thousands of these cars built with the two-tone paint and silver leather interior. That's the only thing different from a regular 1978 Corvette. Black And Gold "Special Edition" 1977-79 Pontiac Trans-Ams. After "Smokey and the Bandit" there were literally thousands upon thousands of these cars built. And again, except for the paint job and gold dash panel, their just a regular T/A, no special engines or anything else. "Starsky and Hutch" Torinos. Because of the popularity of that T.V. show, many Ford Dealers across the country painted 2-door 1974-76 Gran Torinos Red with a White stripe, and put slot mags on them, and sold them for over sticker, but there was never an official version released from Ford. Hope this helps everyone out! Mastermind            

"Fast and Furious?" Well, Maybe!!

Even before the F&F movies came out, I couldn't understand people putting thousands of dollars into Honda Civics or Nissan Sentras -basically econoboxes, and trying to make them fast. Like I always say-If you want to go fast, buy something that goes fast. I have nothing against Import cars. I love the Nissan 370Z, and my buddys Subaru WRX is an absolute blast to drive. The new Hyundai Genesis Coupe that rips to 60 mph in 5.4 seconds is way cool too. But back to the subject at hand. The economy car into musclecar build might be the ticket for a lot of people. Here's why.  Not everyone can afford a GTO or 396 Chevelle or Road Runner, Charger etc. American car makers made a lot of compact cars that can go very fast with very little work and are dirt cheap. #1 1974-79 Chevy Nova. The 68-73 models have kind of a "cult" following, but the later ones are a steal. They all had front disc brakes, weigh 4-500 lbs less than a 70's Camaro, and a lot of them had 350s under the hood. Your not limited to just building a drag racer either. A lot of factory and aftermarket suspension parts that fit a Camaro also fit these cars, so they can be made to handle, too. In kind of a sub-heading, you have to include 1971-77 Pontiac Venturas. Basically a Nova clone, and a lot of them had six-cylinder or 307,305, or 350 Chevy engines in them. This is not a bad thing, as there are more speed parts for the small-block Chevy than anything else in the world. The real sleepers however, have 350 Pontiacs in them. They really wake up with a 4bbl carb and intake, exhaust work and and axle-ratio change. However if you want to be a real badass, a 400 or 455 Pontiac will bolt right in place of the 350 Poncho!  #3 1970-76 Plymouth Duster/ Dodge Dart. 700 lbs lighter than the B-bodys, these are great sleepers. 340 versions can be expensive, but 318 models are the proverbial dime-a-dozen. They can be hopped up easily, and a 360 or even a 410 inch stroker ( based on a 360 ) will drop right in. There are also kits to install B and RB engines-i.e.-a 383, 400 or 440!  #4 1970-77 Ford Maverick. A lot of these had sixes, but look for 302 versions. These cars are light ( under 3,200 lbs ) the 8 inch rearend is tough, and there are a zillion ways to build power into a 302 Ford. Or you could swap in a 351W or 351W-based 392 or 427 stroker!. #5 1975-80 Chevy Monza. Forget the 4 cylinder and V6 models. The V8s are dirt-cheap. Called the "Factory V8 Vega". Most had 305s, but-a 350 or 400 will bolt right in. Look for 75-76 "California" models-they had 350s stock! They never caught on and were labeled dogs because they had 2-bbl carburation, single exhaust, and salt-flats gearing like 2.29:1. But with a little work these ultralight cars-about 2,800 lbs- can be wicked fast. #6 1972-77 AMC Gremlin. Go ahead laugh. Forget the 4 and 6 cylinder models, look for a "X" version with the 304 V8. With a curb weight just over 2,600 lbs, they can go very fast with not too much work. With their short wheelbase and good weight distribution, they actually make good drag racers! However, like Pontiacs, AMC V8s are all externally identical. Which means a 360 or 401 will bolt right in!  A buddy had a 304 Gremlin in high school that he and his dad stuffed a 401 out of a Matador Police car into. He blew the doors off many Chevelles, Camaros and Mustangs that were supposedly "Bad". #7 1975-78 Mustang II. Again, go ahead and laugh. Forget the 4 banger and V6 versions. A fair number had 302 V8s! Like the Chevy Monza, they were derided as lousy performers, for the same reason-2bbl carburation, single exhaust, and 2.41 gears. However, these cars don't weigh much more than a Pinto, and with a 4 bbl carb and intake, dual exhaust and some 3.55 gears, you could give those smug later model 5.0 owners a surprise they'd never forget. Or think of this-How badass would one be with a 351W or 392 stroker?  Don't under-estimate a low-buck hot rod!! Mastermind    

Low-Buck Modern Muscle!

Lately, even "Entry-level" musclecars-i.e 383 Road Runners, 400 GTOs ( Excluding Judge, RAIII, RAIV or 455HO models ) 396 Chevelles, ( Not L78s or L89s) 289 or 351 64-70 Mustangs ( Excluding Shelbys, Boss 302s, and 428 Mach 1s )  etc can fetch 15 or 20 or 25 thousand dollars if their nicely restored. That's beyond a lot of people's budgets for a second or third car. ( Assuming they have a daily driver and their spouse does too.) However, people on a limited budget can still enjoy a high-performance american muscle car, they'll just have buy something newer. This isn't a bad thing. There are a number of cars out there dirt-cheap that have tremendous potential. #1 1979-93 Ford "5.0" Mustang. The fuel-injected 87-93 models are the best performers and most reliable. Big fun stock, and there is a ton of factory and aftermarket speed equipment available for these cars. I have seen rough, but running examples as low as $800 and anything over $2,000 is usually pretty nice. #2 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird. The downside is most models had underpowered 305 Chevys under the hood. The upside is a stout 350, 383 or 400 small-block is a bolt-in. # 3 1985-91 Chevrolet Corvette. Corvette collectors snub these cars while chasing the later LT1, and LS1, LS2 and LS3 models. These cars are a screaming bargain. I have seen decent examples on used car lots for as low as $3,000! The TPI 350 made 250 hp and 330 lbs ft of torque stock, and is easy to work on. With very little work you can up both those figures by 100. Or you could swap in a killer 383. Either way, you could give those smug later model owners a run for their money they won't soon forget!  #4 1993-2002 Z/28 Camaro/ Firebird Formula and Trans-Am. I have seen these cars for as low as $3,000 as well. The LT1 and LS1 motors have about 300 hp stock, and again, you can up that by 100 or 150 amazingly easy. #5 2005 and later Hemi Charger/ Chrysler 300C. These cars are under $10,000 in any state in the union. Most have leather, CD player, and a ton of luxury options. The 5.7 Hemi has 340 hp stock, and there is a ton of aftermarket equipment available. #6 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO  I have seen these cars as low as $8200 at auctions. Yet they feature the LS1/LS2 heart of a Vette. 350 hp from the 5.7L 2004 models, and 400 ponies from the 6.0L 2005-2006 models. Something to think about if you don't major bucks for your '60's or 70's dream car, but still want some all-American muscle under your right foot. Mastermind    

If it's not original, it might as well be wicked fast

 A lot of us have musclecars that may be very nice, but don't have the original numbers-matching engine. Unless your a concours show enthusiast restoring a car to the nth degree, I wouldn't mess with trying to chase one down. Even if your car isn't something ultra-rare-i.e. a Boss 302, SD-455 T/A, Hemi Cuda, etc, finding an original engine can be a virtually impossible task. If you have say, a 66 GTO-where are you going to find a 389 Pontiac with late 1965 or early 1966 date codes?  Or a 1963 327 to put in your Impala SS? Certainly not in your local junkyard.  Even later stuff is getting hard to find. Where are you going to find a 1972 340 to put in your Duster or Challenger? If you do, the seller is going to know what he has and it's going to be very expensive even for a rusted, locked up one that's going to need a complete rebuild. Since the engine you have or practically any one you buy isn't going to be numbers-matching, you might as well have one with awesome, greater than stock performance. Can't find a 340 for that Duster, Demon or Cuda? How about a Mopar performance 360 crate motor with 380 hp? Can't find a 440 for your Road Runner? MP has 500 hp, 505 inch strokers based on a 440 wedge. No 396 for that SS Chevelle? GMPP has rat motors from 454 to 572 cubes, with horsepower ratings from 425 to 720! No 327 or 350 for your Nova SS? How about a 383 stroker from GMPP or Blueprint engines? Can't find a hi-po 289 for your Mustang? How about a 347 stroker from Ford Racing?  You have a 68 GTO and a 400 block out of a 76 Gran Prix? Put a stroker crank in it and make it a 455. Add some Edelbrock or Kauffman aluminum heads, and your rockin'. Can't find a 330 for your 64 442? I bet you could find a 403. Besides being used in hundreds of thousands of California and high-altitude Pontiac Firebirds and Trans-Ams from 77-79, they were also used in thousands of Buick,Olds and Pontiac station wagons, Electras,Rivieras, Bonnevilles, and Catalinas. Besides the 73 extra cubes, you could add Edelbrock heads, cam and intake and have way more grunt than even the revered and rare "W-31" 350 Olds engines. Since it's not original, who cares if it's modified? And you can race it, and not live in fear of throwing a rod out the side of a numbers-matching block. I'd sure do that rather than searching the galaxy for an overpriced core with a certain date stamped on it!  Mastermind    

The Point of Diminishing Returns

As I have touched on before I have a GMPP ZZ4 Chevy crate engine in my Hurst/Olds. I love it, because on street tires, through the mufflers, at my local strip which is at an altitude of 5,200 feet, it runs consistent 13.9s. Corrected for altitude, that would be more like 13.40's. It idles at 750 rpm, has 17 inches of vacuum at idle, pulls hard to 6,000 rpm, and gets 16 mpg even with 4.10 gears in the rearend. It's so smooth, that if the engine didn't have headers on it, you wouldn't be able to hear it run. Driving it, it feels like any other exceptionally well-maintained 70's Cutlass, until you hit the loud pedal, at which point Dr. Jekyll definitely turns into Mr. Hyde! Being the most popular crate engine in history, just about every enthusiast mag on the market has a ZZ4 powered project car, or runs dyno tests on how to get even more power out of one. A buddy showed me one recently and suggested I make those changes to my car. If you don't know, the ZZ4 is pretty hopped up in the first place. 10:1 compression, aluminum heads, roller cam with .474/510 lift, aluminum Z/28/LT-1 style intake, performance curved HEI distributor, etc. The factory rating is 355 hp and 405 lbs ft of torque. What makes them such an awesome STREET engine-not race motor-is the torque curve. According to the dyno sheet, it makes more than 350 lbs of torque from 1800 to 5200 rpm! In this article the magazine got 117 more hp by adding a different carb and intake, larger aftermarket aluminum heads, and a bigger cam. If it's a drag racer or circle-track racer, by all means this is great, because every last ounce counts. But if the car is a daily driver, or weekend cruiser, not a "trailer queen." then you hit the point of diminishing returns. Here's why: In the dyno test, they swapped the stock intake and vacuum-secondary 770 Holley carb for an "Air-Gap" Performer RPM and a mechanical secondary 750 Holley double-pumper. This was worth 28 hp. However, after this article came out, a bunch of readers from mid-western and rocky mountain states wrote in complaining that in cold weather-5 or 6 months out of the year-the "Air-Gap" manifold caused carburator icing! The car either wouldn't start at all, or needed to run for 10 or 15 minutes, before it would make it out of the driveway without the engine dying! Yes, those mechanical secondaries and double accelerator pumps will cover any "bog" you might have, especially in a low-geared car with a stick, or an auto with a high-stall converter, but every time you look at the throttle it's like flushing a toilet-instead of 16 mpg, you get more like 9-11 mpg, and if you have an automatic with a stock-type converter they don't launch nearly as cleanly as a vacuum secondary carb. At this point, when your late for work, that 28 hp doesn't seem so attractive! The bigger cam was worth 55 more hp, but now the engine only had 12 inches of vacuum, and a noiticeably rougher idle, which in reality, would probably need a higher-stall converter, which would hurt driveability and gas mileage even more. Plus, with street tires, the bigger converter would just blow the tires off. I know, as my car is quicker with a stock converter than it was with a "Streetfighter". Doubtless, with slicks or drag radials, the car would be quicker in the 1/4 mile, but how nice is it to drive now?  The bigger heads were worth another 40 hp, but in a 1,400 rpm window- from 4,700 to 6,100 rpm. And they cost $1,400!! Further, the "antiquated " L98 heads that came on the engine were equal to or within 5 hp and 5 lbs ft of torque at every rpm up to 4600! At some speeds there was no difference, or only a gain of 1-2 hp and lbs ft of torque. If you drive the car at all, honestly-how often are you above 4,700 rpm?  That's what I told my pal. Yes the car woukl be way faster, probably even dipping into the 12's, but it wouldn't be nearly as nice to drive, or be as much of a "Sleeper" as it is. So think twice before you decide to put that 720 hp 572 in your Chevelle or that 610 hp 528 Hemi in your Charger. Before you send the nasty letters calling me a candy-ass, yes, anything is drivable, depending on what the driver is willing to tolerate. If you want a race car with liscence plates, build one. A buddy of mine bought a Cobra replica kit car a few years back. It had a blown 514 inch Ford in it. Was it fast? It was ungodly fast-he ran something like 9.90 on his first pass down the strip and then got kicked out for not having the proper safety equipment. ( Anything that runs faster than 11.50 has to have an 8-point roll cage and a driveshaft safety loop )  Did he drive it on the street? Of course he did. Was it pleasant to drive, even around the block? Not only no, but Hell no!!  You had to crane your neck to the left to see around the blower to drive, it had no power steering, no power brakes, no heater, no radio, no roof, no side windows, it needed two cans of octane booster per tankful while getting 5-8 mpg, if it idled for more than a minute and a half, it got hot, which turned the cramped cockpit into a sauna even in the winter, drivers and passengers alike constantly banged their heads on the shorty rollbar and burned their legs on the sidepipes, and about every 6th time he got on it, it would spit a half-shaft out the Jag rear end and have to be towed home! A beefed-up Mustang 8.8 rear solved that problem, but it still had all the others! Did he love it? Of course he did. But he sold it in a year because after the initial "Oh, my god, I've never driven anything this fucking fast" rush wore off, it was more trouble than it was worth to even try to drive to the local Cobra clubs "Show and Shines" or "Cruise-ins".  Not trying to tell anyone what to do, but like the old saying- "Beware of what you want, because you might get it."  Mastermind            

Consider a Base Model

We all love SS Chevelles, GTOs. 442s, Road Runners, Super Bees, Mach 1 Mustangs, AMX's, Z/28s, Trans-Ams, and other muscle machines. The sad truth is, for a lot of people, these cool cars are out of their financial reach. However, the good new is, they were based on models that are plentiful and can be bought reasonably. During the craziness of a few years ago, a lot of Tempests were made into GTO clones, and a lot of 318 Cudas and Challengers had bib-blocks swapped into them by money hungry investors, but the bottom line is, there is still a tremendous supply of raw material out there. Small-block non-SS Chevelles are plentiful as are Tempests, LeMans, and non-442 Cutlass models. The good thing about these, is you can "Clone" your dream car if you want, or you can build it any other way you want-Pro Street, Pro-Touring, Nascar Tribute, Trans-Am racing tribute. People will call you vile names if you put a modern ZO6 Vette motor and a Hotchkiss suspension and 20 inch wheels on a 69 442. Do it to a generic 69 Cutlass, and people will say "How Cool is that!" Take a 73 Firebird and make it look like an IROC racer or Nascar racer, even if it's got a small-block Chevy in it, and it's cool. Do that to a 1973 Trans-Am and the townspeople will storm your house with torches. Coronets and Satellites are way cheaper than their premium counterparts. Base model Camaros are the proverbial dime a dozen, as are non Mach 1 Mustangs, and non Trans-Am Firebirds. Something to think about if your on a limited budget. Mastermind    

Musclecars in Movies...And the screw-ups!

We all enjoy seeing musclecars on film, but sometimes I wonder what the producers, directors and stunt coordinators are thinking. In the new revenge flick "Faster" starring Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson, he drives an SS396 Chevelle. It's apparently supposed to be a '70 model, as that's the front end it has. However it has the round taillights and rear bumper of a 71-72 model!! This is a big-budget film. I figure the stunt crew took a beater 71-72 Malibu and tried to trick it up. What irks me is-Just make it a 71-72 SS454 clone. Or if your going to to put the '70 nose on it, they couldn't afford another 300 bucks for the correct '70 rear bumper? "Fast and Furious 4" starring Vin Diesel and Paul Walker went with mostly musclecars this time out instead of imports. Sorry Mopar fans, only the "Show" Charger-i.e. the one at movie premieres and photo ops had the blown 528 Hemi. All the other stunt Chargers used in the movie had-Gasp!- GMPP 350 Chevy crate motors, Turbo 400 automatics, and 9 inch Ford rearends. The blowers were fakes that were bolted to the hood. The stunt crew said they did this for reliability and parts interchangeability reasons. I've been playing with cars for 30 years, and I don't know anyone who's ever broken a Chrysler 8 3/4 or Dana 60 rearend! Reliability reasons? The 350 Chevy/Turbo 400 combo is that much tougher than MP 360 Crate motors and 727 Torqueflites?  At least the 70 Chevelle that Diesel did the wheelie in had a 502 rat motor, Turbo 400 and a 4.88 posi. It also had 300 pounds of lead in the bumper to make it pull the wheels easier. This is not a new phenemonon-Hollywood has been screwing up for many years. In "Smokey and the Bandit" sometimes the Trans-Am is a four-speed; the camera shows the clutch pedal and Burt Reynolds shifting it. Other times, the camera clearly shows the automatic shifter sticking out of the console. In Burt's other classic "White Lightning" regarding the 72 LTD he does his "Whiskey Runnin'" in-when the ATF mechanic shows him the chromed out engine Burt says-"Nice 429, dual quad carburators.." Yet the camera clearly shows one Holley four-barrel under a Weiand Lynx air cleaner. Later, again, in some scenes it's a four-speed-they show the T-handled Hurst shifter, and him shifting it. In two other scenes one where he visits his mother-he clearly puts the automatic column shifter in park. In the other, Jennifer Billingsly drives the wounded Burt to safety. She starts the car, and pulls a column shifter into drive before taking off.  In "Vanishing Point" if you look closely, the car that explodes at the end is a Camaro, not a Challenger. Stunt coordinator Carey Loftin freely admitted this in a later interview. "We took a beater 1967 Camaro, pulled the engine, and filled the engine compartment with explosives and an impact-sensitive switch." "I used a quick-release tow bar and towed it toward the bulldozers,released the cable and pulled over." "That's how we made it look like Barry Newman actually drove into the bulldozers." My question is this- The movie was made in 1970 and released in 1971. The cars were brand-new. Chrysler supplied them with five Challengers-four 440/4-speeds and one 383/automatic. They couldn't blow up one of those? They couldn't ask Chrysler for one more, even a strippy slant-six model to blow up?  In 1970, a 67 Camaro was still a pretty new car: that would be like blowing up a 2007 model of anything now. I doubt they got the car for nothing. So why use a Camaro instead of a Challenger, and hope no one notices? On a movie that had a budget of a few million 1970 dollars, what did they save? 3 grand?  In the all-time king- Bullitt-the Charger loses eight hubcaps in the chase, they pass the same VW several times, and the gas station explodes BEFORE the Charger hits the pumps. I know nobody's perfect, but this wasn't the "Jackass" crew with a video camera, these were major Hollywood releases. Like Ditka says on Monday Night Football- "Come on, Man!!"  Mastermind                  

Save The Manuals!!

Car and Driver magazine is starting a campaign called "Save the Manuals". They did this because most modern cars are automatics, and don't even have a stick-shift option. This has spread to Audis, and even Ferarris. It's relevant here, because stick-shift musclecars are getting rarer than they were originally, and it's musclecar enthusiasts who are committing this genocide! Popular Hot Rodding featured a 1969 SS396 Chevelle on the cover. In the article it said-the car was a numbers-matching 4-speed model. It now has a Turbo 400 Automatic, and a gear vendors overdrive. Car Craft had a "Classic Muscle " Shootout a while back. They rounded up 4 people who owned an LS6 Chevelle, a 440/Six-Pack Road Runner, a Ram Air IV GTO and a 428 CJ Mustang, and were willing to let the magazine drag-test them. The GTO was originally a 4-speed car, but the owner "Restored it the way he would have ordered it." With an automatic!. Muscle Car Reviews Pure Stock Drag Champion a few years ago was a 1969 SS396 Nova with a Turbo 400, that was-You guessed it, originally a 4-speed model!! The jerk converted it, because the auto would be easier to launch at the drags with street tires! Mopar owners are not immune. Mopar Muscle magazine featured a 1970 440/4-speed GTX that they were putting a four-speed automatic overdrive in. In the same issue, they featured a 73 340 Duster "that was originally a four-speed car" Is this getting old yet?- That the owner had swapped in a 408 stroker and a 727 Torqueflite. You want to talk real blasphemy? Another mag featured a 70 340 Challenger that they not only converted to a slushbox, they used a GM 4L60E! I don't understand this at all. If you want a musclecar with an automatic, then buy one. They are certainly more plentiful and therefore, usually substantially cheaper than their manual counterparts. I know that automatics make better drag racers. Again, then buy a car factory equipped with one. Or if you must build one, then surely you can find a Non-SS Chevelle, or Nova, or a Tempest/ Lemans or Satellite or Duster/Dart or whatever that has an automatic in it to begin with. Swap in a 500 inch stroker with Nitrous, a modern Fuel-injected motor, whatever you want, because no one cares about it anyway. But don't take a rare ultra-desirable car and make it less desirable!!  That's like the old racist Italian joke- An Italian kid won a Gold Medal at the Olympics, and his father was so proud that he had it Bronzed!!  Please, join me and Car and Driver, and stop this horrific slaughter!!  Mastermind