Good Restification advice regardless of brand......

While each car line-Chevy,Ford, Mopar, etc has their individual characteristics-there are some general guidelines that will save you money and give you maximum bang for the buck regardless of what your restoring. # 1. The saying-"There's no substitute for cubic inches, except cubic dollars" Is still true. Unless your restoring a classic with a small engine-i.e. a Boss 302 Mustang, or a '69 Z/28 with a 302 Chevy-always build the biggest motor you can afford. Often the larger engine costs no more to buy or build, yet either stock or modified, makes substantially more power. Some examples-a 350 Chevy makes way more power than a 305. A 400 Pontiac makes way more power than a 350. A 360 Mopar makes a lot more power than a 318. On the other hand-I said biggest motor you can AFFORD. Don't scrap a perfectly good 383 Chrysler and then spend an extra 5 grand that you don't really have, buying and building a junk 440.  Stroker cranks are all the rage now, and more cubes equals more power. This is fine if the engine in question needed the crank, rods and pistons replaced anyway. But what if you had a perfectly good running 400 Pontiac-good compression on all cylinders, good oil pressure, doesn't smoke or use a drop of oil. Instead of trying to make it into a 455, I'd take the $1699 that the stroker rotating assembly costs and buy a hot cam,an Edelbrock intake and carb, a set of headers, and maybe some gears and traction bars to put all that power to the ground. The extra power you get from those mods is going to be a lot more than you'd get with just the cubes. See what I'm saying?  # 2. Bigger is not always better. Just because some intake or cam made the most peak hp on a dyno doesn't mean it's going work well in a street-driven car. In 99% of applications I'd recommend a dual-plane manifold and a vacuum-secondary carb. Double-Pumper Holleys and single-plane intakes are ok on a steeply geared, light car with a stick-if you pop the clutch at 3 grand on up, it's not going to bog-but on a car with an automatic-that you can't rev up at the line to clean out, you need a carb that idles and launches cleanly-i.e.-a properly prepped Quadrajet or Edelbrock. Plus, every time you look at the throttle the mechanical secondarys and dual accelerator pumps open-it's like flushing a toilet. Your gas mileage will be horrific-I mean like 5-8 mpg instead 12-14. The same goes for camshaft selection. Especially on a car with an automatic transmission and high ( low numeric ) gearing it's better to err on the conservative side. Manual trans applications are more forgiving because idle quality isn't as important-you can launch at whatever rpm you want. And engine size makes a difference too. For example the old standby- the "350 hp 327 Corvette cam" will absolutely ruin a 305 Chevy. However this same cam will work pretty good in a 350 and be really sweet in a 383 or 400. The reason being that the larger engines have more torque to begin with, so losing a little bottom end in exchange for a lot more mid-range and top-end is acceptable. The 305 didn't have enough torque to lose, so the big cam just kills the small motor. You need to be cautious on big-blocks too. For example I would only recommend the Vaunted Ram Air IV cam for a 400 Pontiac if the car had a 4-speed and 3.73 gears. However, I know people that get awesome performance with this cam while running 3.08 or 3.23 gears and an automatic behind a 455. The 55 extra cubes really smooths out this radical cam. # 3. Consider "Bang for the Buck" before you spend big dollars. Aftermarket aluminum heads are all the rage, and in some cases they are a great deal. In other cases not. For example-Hot Rod magazine did a cylinder head test on a 454 Chevy a few years ago-the standard oval-port heads vs the rectangular port high-performance heads. The hi-perf heads did not show a noticeable gain until 6,300 rpm!  How often are you going to above 6,200 rpm in your street / strip machine? Edelbrock makes performance aluminum heads for just about everything; however, for anything other than a small-block Chevy they cost close to 2 grand a pair. For 2 grand you could buy a carb/intake combo, a cam, headers,a higher stall converter and some stiffer gears. Ditto for overdrive transmissions. These swaps cost anywhere from 2-5 thousand dollars. For 600 less rpm on the freeway?!  Again that money could better spent elsewhere.  Mastermind 

If no one makes the parts, then how are you going to build it?

Several people were offended when I wrote about some cool Buick models and recommended they swap in a Chevy engine to go real fast. I did this for one reason only-parts availability. Like it or not- although the popularity of the new GM LS motors is rising, the small and big block Chevy is the easiest and cheapest way for a quick power infusion into any GM chassis. I have nothing against Buicks but consider this- "Real" Pontiac engines have been out of production since 1978. Yet there is a ton of aftermarket support-Edelbrock and Kauffman offer aluminum heads, Scat and Eagle- offer stroker cranks and rotating assemblies. Butler performance and KRE offer aftermarket blocks. Ditto for Mopar "B" and "RB" engines-i.e. 383,400 and 440. Yet Edelbrock and Indy racing offer aftermarket heads, Eagle offers stroker cranks, etc. The factory-Mopar performance offers cams and intakes-even replacement "Six-Pack" setups and a 500 inch 440 based crate engine. The 455 Olds has been out of production since 1976, and the 350 / 403 since 1980. Yet, because of their immense popularity in boat racing- there is a ton of speed equipment available for the 455 Olds-including Edelbrock aluminum heads. Because so many Pontiac Firebirds were built with 403 Olds engines in the late '70's-there's plenty for them. And the 350 /403 are the same family. The Ford "FE" series was discontinued after 1976. Yet there is aftermarket aluminum heads, intakes, cams, stroker cranks, etc to build a 390 or 428, or even a 447 inch stroker. The 455 Buick was discontinued in 1976 and the 350 in 1977. Edelbrock makes Perfromer intakes for the 430 and 455s, but nothing for the 350s. Kenne-Bell and T/A performance make some parts-but unlike a Chevy or Pontiac or Ford or Mopar-you can't just call Summitt Racing and order everything you need to build a killer motor. Spare me the letters from the people with 10 second GSX's or Grand Nationals-Yes it can be done-but not easily or cheaply. If you want say-a 12 second street machine-where you need at least 400 hp-you can do that with a small-block Chevy for less than 3 grand with the right combination of parts ( Super Chevy did it for $2,600 with a Pep Boys short block, GMPP Vortec heads, and an Edelbrock intake and cam ) . Hemmings Muscle Machines built a 425hp 400 Pontiac for $3,200. Try to build a 400+ hp Buick for twice that. And I mean buying the parts retail-Don't give me a story like the magazine "Budget Builds"- "Hey-what about that set of ported and polished Brodix aluminum heads that "We ALMOST FORGOT WE HAD!"  "Don's brother just "Happened to have" a complete Six-Pack setup he took off his totaled Super Bee. He not only helped us install it, he bought the beer."  Puhleeeze. I was just saying that a Skylark might be a good buy if you can't find a Chevelle or GTO, and if you did swap in a 502 crate motor, it's not like your messing up a numbers-matching Judge. And even if you do have Donald Trump's bank account-all thing being equal-whether you spend $1,500 or $15,000, a 350 or 455 Buick is never going to make the same amount of power as a 350 or 454 Chevy for the same money. That's all I was saying. Mastermind          

The importance of torque!

A reader asked me to clarify how the Trans-Am mentioned in the last post could run high 12s with a 2.56 axle ratio. Here's how-the engine was 461 cubes ( a .030 over 455 ) with Edelbrock heads, a Tomahawk intake and a cam with 224/234 duration ( at .050 lift ) and .473/488 lift. It had headers and a good exhaust system. The engine only put out about 460 hp on the dyno; but it made a godzilla-like 573 lbs ft of torque. Further, it made 500 lbs ft as low as 2,700 rpm. This massive amount of torque is how the car went so fast with the high ( low numeric ) gearing. It's trap speeds were between 110-115 mph, which normally would mean an e.t. in the high 11s, but the car was spining the tires literally until about 70 mph! The stiffer gears didn't help that much because the increased torque multiplication resulted in even more wheelspin. If he'd had traction bars and drag radials or slicks, the e.t. would have matched the trap speed.  I see this all the time. A friend has a Duster that he stuffed a 440 based 505 inch stroker into. He does have a drag-style suspension-subframe connectors,inboard leaf springs to clear monster slicks, pinion snubber-the whole nine yards. The car actually ran FASTER with 3.55 gears than it did with 4.30s! The reason being this 500 inch monster had plenty of torque, and with the 4.30s he was running out of rpm at the end of the track. In the "Old days" when the hot setup was a 283 Chevy bored out to 301, or a 327 with a 4-speed, yes you needed 4.11 or 4.56 gears to get a holeshot, and with the right solid-lifter cam the little motors would rev to 7 or 8 grand, so you didn't run out of rpm. Ditto for big-blocks. Remember these engines were developed to do 200 mph at Daytona in Nascar racing. The huge head ports of a 426 Hemi or 427 Ford or 427 Chevy meant you had to run them at high rpm to get maximum power. For drag racing, that meant stiff gearing. Engineers figured out that smaller ports and valves with more flow velocity at low speeds made much more low-end and mid-range torque. This is what made the original Pontiac GTO such an awesome STREET machine. When you've got 430 lbs ft of torque right off idle you don't have to rev to 7 grand. This is also why the 383 and 440 Wedge Mopars would run away from a Hemi on the street if the both had 3.23 or 3.55 gears. But give the Hemi some 4.88s-and look out! Now engine builder don't build engines like your racing at Talladega now. They build for torque instead of top-end speed. You only need a 3 grand converter and 4.11 gears if the engine doesn't have enough torque to launch the car. With a big-block or even a properly built small-block, especially with street tires- a high-stall conveter and / or stiff gears is just going to give you more wheelspin which ( Duh ) actually slows you down. You have to remember that the test bed for everything is a stock 8.2:1 L48 350 Chevy. Which puts out about 250 hp and 280lbs ft of torque. This engine is a dog in a Chevelle with 2.73 gears. 3.42s or 3.73s and a 2500 rpm converter would make it feel like a rocket, as it puts every last ounce of that 280lbs of torque to use. If the same Chevelle had a 454 and 2.73 gears, changing to 3.42s and a higher stall converter would more than likely just blow the tires off, and not give you nearly as dramatic an improvement. In fact, the car might be slower because of the massive increase in wheelspin. The reason? Even a low-compression 454 out of a late '70's or early '80's pickup makes about 400lbs of torque,and makes almost all of it right off idle for towing. So using mechanical advantage to "Fool" the car into acting like it has more torque than it does backfires, because it doesn't need any more bottom-end torque! Conversely the same applies when adding top-end power. Most modifications sacrifice low-speed torque for top-end rush. For example let's say you put a Victor Jr intake on a stock small-block Chevy. The Victor Jr makes power from 3,500-8,500 rpm. If it loses 30 lbs of torque at the bottm end-now your down to 250 lbs on that stocker. it'll kill the launch even further. And since the stock cam is going to start run out of breath about 4,500-5,000 rpm-right where the Victor STARTS to make power- the car will be a slug with the aftermarket intake. Now put that Victor intake on my ZZ4 crate motor. The ZZ4 makes 405 lbs ft of torque on the GMPP dyno. It it loses 30 lbs of torque from the new intake-it still has 375-a ton more than the stocker at it's peak. And with it's aluminum heads and hot roller cam, it will get a shot in the arm about 3 grand and pull hard to 6,500. It will probably drop 3/10s in the quarter from the mid-range and top-end boost, and the slight loss of bottom-end torque might actually help the car launch better with less wheelspin. So if your building a big-block remember that it's not a small-block. Hope this clears things up Mastermind         

Beware that "Last Ounce" of speed.....You may not like it!

No matter how fast our cars are-gearheads are constantly looking for ways to go faster. On a race car this is a good thing, but on a car that your going to drive at all on the street, sometimes this can really bite you in the ass. Here's some good examples of this. # 1. A national magazine tested a bunch of intake manifolds on a small-block Chevy. The dyno test showed that the Edelbrock Performer RPM "Air Gap" model-with a raised plenum so air could flow under the carb-was worth 10-15 hp over the regular "RPM" which was already the top dog of street/strip intakes. This was great in sunny California. However, they recieved a flood of angry letters from readers in the midwest and Rocky mountain states saying that they bought these manifolds, and then experienced carburator icing which made their cars virtually impossible to start in cold weather, or if they would start, they wouldn't run properly for 15-20 minutes! These people said they were re-installing their old manifolds and gladly giving up that 10-15 hp in exchange for a car that would start reliably!!  # 2. "We shall Overcam."  Another magazine chronicled a camshaft test. Their test mule was a 383 Chevy stroker motor that was already pretty "built" the way it came. The cam in the engine idled at 800 rpm and had 14 inches of vacuum at idle. Perfect for a street machine. The "hotter" cam they installed made 28 more hp, and 24 lbs ft more of torque. However, it only made 9.5 inches of vacuum at idle, and wouldn't idle below 1100 rpm. It didn't have enough vacuum to operate the power brakes on the car it was in.  Again, the engine was already making 427 hp with the cam it came with, so making 455 wasn't worth the loss of idle quality or ability ro operate vacuum accessories!! # 3. High Perfromance Pontiac had a 79 Trans Am with a stompin' 455 in it. It ran 12.80's with a 2.56 axle ratio, and ran 12.40's with a 3.73. However gas mileage dropped from 16 mpg to 11 mpg, and highway cruising rpm went from 2300 to 3,000!. The owner felt that 4/10s at the drags wasn't worth the loss of drivability.  So be careful chasing that last ounce. Mastermind

A "Muscle Truck" might be a great buy for you!

Trucks were generally regarded as commercial, construction or farm vehichles by most people up until the late '60's. They weren't aerodynamic, and their antiquated suspensions made them ill-handling and definitely weren't considered hot rod material. However in 1967 Ford and Chevrolet / GMC completely redesigned their pickups. The bodies were actually good-looking and ( For a truck ) aerodynamic, and the interiors were vastly upgraded and more comfortable, and the suspensions were upgraded to make them not only better haulers, but better daily drivers. Air conditioning, automatic transmissions, power steering and power brakes were offered. Previously most trucks had antiquated engines that had both crappy fuel economy and no power-the 305 V6 in the GMC's and the old 292 "Y-block" V8 in the Fords. The modernized straight sixes-the 292 Chevy and 300 inch Ford got good mileage and were torquey enough to haul heavy loads, but definitely not high-performance. Now,for the first time modern, powerful V8 engines were offered. The 289 / 302 small-blocks had light-years better performance than the old Y-block Fords. The 283 and 327 Chevys offered great performance. And if you wanted more than that, the vaunted 396 Rat motor was optional in Chevys and the 390 was optional in Fords. The 2-wheel drive short-bed models were quick. Whether it's a C10 or a Chevelle-a 396 V8 in a 3,900 lb machine is a performer! As they got into the '70's they got more luxury options, front disc brakes became standard, and they got even bigger engines. Dodge finally modernized their pickups in 1972. GM offered the 454 in their 1/2 ton trucks, Ford offered the 460 and Dodge the 440. Further, as the '70's wound down, cars became more and more emasculated-the last Big-block 'Vette was built in 1974,and the option was dropped on A-bodies ( Chevelle, Monte Carlo ) in 1975. The Charger,Road Runner and Challenger / Cuda were gone after 1974-and the Mustang was more Pinto than Mustang. Catylitic converters and ever-tightening emissions standards further killed the performance of cars. However, trucks had different standards up until 1978 you could buy a Chevy pickup with a 454 with catylist-free dual exhaust, a Turbo 400 and a 3.73 rear end! Ditto for the others-440 cubes in a Dodge or 460 in a Ford. Trucks and SUV's became immensely popular in the '80's and '90's. GM offered the SS454 package from 1990-93, and Ford offered the "Lightning" F150 with a hotted-up 351W from 1992-95. Dodge didn't really have a sport truck until 1998, but when they stuffed a 360 Magnum V8 in the mid-size Dakota, they had a runner. Ford put a blower on the 5.4 mod motor in the new for '97 F150 and gave the Lightning a blistering 380 hp. GM no longer had the old style Rats- but the 6.0 and 6.2 liter LS motors produce between 360 and 403 hp depending on year. The Hemi Dodges make between 340 and 390 hp depending on year. A hot rod pickup might be the way to go for some of us. A "hauler" that hauls ass right?  Mastermind   

Here's what it takes to run 13s,12s,11s......

People talk all the time about 1/4 mile times, but I think a lot of them don't understand what is required to run these times. I thought I'd break it down a little and clarify some things. # 1. 14 second Cars. Typical 14 second rides include 5.0 Mustangs, Tuned Port Injected 'Vettes and F-bodies, '70's 4-speed T/A's or automatics with an axle-ratio change, and stock Buick Gran Nationals. This would also include "entry level" classic muscle like 340 Dusters, 383 Road Runners, 389 GTOs, 396 Chevelles, etc. Their fun to drive, and you can live with them everyday-the engines idle smoothly, the seats are comfortable and the suspension doesn't rattle your fillings loose.  # 2. 13 second cars. These are great, fun hot rods. Your typical 13 second ride has either a mildly hopped up small block in a relatively light car with a little extra mechanical advantage-i.e. a Nova with a warmed-over 350 and a 4-speed and 3.73 gears, or an automatic with a higher-than-stock stall converter, or a medium weight car with a mild big-block-i.e.-440 Road Runners, 454 Chevelles, 455 GTOs and 442s. They are still reliable enough to be driven on a daily basis if you want to, but increased fuel consumption and louder exhaust -( from headers ) and decreased idle quality-( From bigger cam ) don't make them attractive for extended driving.  # 3. 12 second cars. Nitrous can yank a 13 second car into the 12s, but the real glory is to run it "On the Motor" which means "Off the Bottle."  To run 12s without chemical assistance you need at least 425-450 hp, which means a stout small-block or a warmed over big-block. Further, you'll need to put all that power to the ground, which means a posi rear end, larger tires, and some kind of traction aiding device-pinion snubber, traction bars, ladder bars, etc. You'll also need some stiff gears-3.73 or 4.11s at least. These cars are definitely still streetable, but the drag-race oriented suspension and the motor buzzing at 3,500 rpm on the freeway aren't the usual qualities of a daily driver.  # 4. 11 second cars. Barring something exceptionally light-like a 2,400 pound Datsun 240Z with a Small-block Chevy- to go this fast you need at least 500 hp. This is why you rarely see an 11 second street machine without a blue bottle in the trunk. If you do, it's usually a car with a strong big block. Besides the previously mentioned drivetrtain, gearing and suspension compromises, most strips require any car that runs the 1/4 in under 12 seconds ( although some are 11.50 ) to have an 8-point roll cage. This means your seriously gutting the interior of the car, and making a serious committment to speed. Daily driver? Uh-uh. Sure you can drive it to the grocery store, but clambering around the roll cage every time you get in or out of the car gets old real quick. # 5. 10 second cars. "Fast and Furious" movies notwithstanding, now your basically building a race car with liscence plates. What would you call a car with an 8 or 10 point cage, a 600 hp engine, a 5 grand converter and a trans brake and nitrous?  Seriously-this kind of speed means a stout small-block with a ton of nitrous or a blower, or a Stompin' big block-think the 720 hp GMPP 572.  And to control that kind of power-chances are you'll need an upgraded drivetrain-i.e.-a T-5 or 200R4 won't hold up-you'll need a Turbo 400 or 727 Torqueflite, and an upgraded rear end-a Dana 60 or a GM 12 bolt or a Ford 9 inch.  Like I said- a race car with liscence plates.  Might cause some people to rethink what they want to build.  Mastermind

You can be cool in a Buick!

While Chevrolet and Pontiac models get most of the attention from potential musclecar buyers, you can find a cool, fun driver at a fair price if you consider a Buick. Here's a list of the best bang for the buck models. # 1 1963-65 Riviera. Bill Mitchell's masterpiece, and the styling still looks great today. Patrick Swayze drove two of them in the movie "Roadhouse". With 401 cubes under the hood, they move pretty good too.  # 2. 1966-69 Riviera. Fastback, hidden headlight styling of the Revolutionary Olds Toronado, but still rear wheel drive. 430 cubes under that long hood  moves them along quickly.  # 3. 1971-73 Riviera. The Famous "Boat-tail" design. 455 cubes-give plenty of motivation.  # 4. 1964-72 Skylark. Buicks version of the Chevelle /LeMans /Cutlass. The 300 and 340 small-blocks don't have the power of their Chevy and Pontiac cousins, and there is very little aftermarket support.  You could put in a 1968 and later 350 Buick, or a 1970 or later 455, or you could swap in a small or big block Chevy. ( It's not like your cutting up something rare ) . # 5. 1973-77 Century / Regal. Think of an upgraded Monte Carlo.  Most have 350s, but a few have 455s. Some 76-77 models may have 403 Olds engines.  A GMPP 572 in one of these would be an awesome sleeper...... Mastermind     

You can't always get what you want......

One of the Rolling Stones' biggest hits said-"You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need."  This applys to buying a musclecar as well. If you lower your sights a little-sometimes you can score a great deal. A friend of mine wanted a "Vanishing Point"- Challenger preferably with a 340, 383, or 440. The search for a 1970-71 model in decent condition at a fair price proved initially fruitless. One day he's driving down the street and sees a nice black Challenger with a "For Sale" sign on it. It turned out be a 1974 model with a 360. After driving it, he made the owner an offer, and a deal was struck. He loves the car, and talks about putting a 360 based 410 stroker in it, or a 440. And he's driving it and enjoying it while thinking about his future plans.  Another acquaintance was looking for a 1964-66 GTO.  Same story-the only Goats he found were basket cases not worth fixing or complete restos that people wanted 30K for. No "Driver quality" or needing work models in between. He found a 1964 Olds 442 for $6,000!  It needed a paint job, but the body was straight, and relatively rust-free. It had a non-original 350 Olds V8 in it, and a Muncie 4-speed. He bought it, and threw a quickie paint job on it. That was 3 years ago. He too, talks about either finding a 330 V8 and making it original, or building a 455 and making it really fast. But-He says-"It runs so damn good, and it's so damn much fun to drive, that I can't bring myself to tear it apart."  Needless to say, he no longer wants a GTO.  Don't get fixated on a certain car. And I don't mean a model, I mean an individual car. A Mopar fanatic I know got fixated on a 1970 Charger R/T .  The car was fully restored, and immaculate. It had a numbers-matching 440 Six-Pack and Center Line wheels, and it was gorgeous. However the asking price was $40,000.  He only had about 10 grand in cash, and no bank wanted to put a $30,000 loan on a 40 year old car, classic or not. My pal was bummed out, and really down in the dumps when his wife absolutely refused to let him get a home-equity loan to buy the car. While he was bitching and contemplating divorce, we ran across another 69 Charger for sale. It wasn't as nice as the other one-it was a "Driver" not a frame-off resto- but the body and paint were good, the interior was good, it only had a little rust in the trunk, ( What '60's Mopar doesn't? ) and it had a freshly rebuilt 440. And the price was $18,000.  While he was trying to get a peronal loan or a credit card for $8,000, to buy that one- we ran into a guy selling a gorgeous 1970 Super Bee. It had a 383 with a 4-speed, an awesome Sublime paint job with black Super Bee graphics, Keystone Klassic wheels with huge radial T/A's, and a gorgeous black interior. The guy was asking $13,500 for the car, and accepted my buddy's offer of 10K cash. He turned handsprings all the way home, and thanked his wife for talking him out of borrowing 30K to get the other car. He loves the Super Bee, and is still driving it, while saving for a Mopar Performance Crate Hemi. And he's still married. The point is, be patient and keep looking. And, within reason, don't "settle" for something that's not close to what you want. I know a guy that bought a 318 / Automatic 1972 Charger with the intent of someday swapping in a big-block. Like a month later-on a used car lot we see a 440, 4-speed 1974 Charger, and the price wasn't much more than what he paid for the 318 model!  Talk about kicking yourself- I never saw such despair in a human being over a car. Like Mick sang-if you try you might find what you need. At the right price. Mastermind                                          

Consider a base model and save Thousands$$!!

I've talked before about mid-level models-Firebird Formulas and Rally Sport Camaros and Coronet R/T's being great buys-but for some of us even these are getting priced out of our pocketbook's range. You can still have a cool musclecar however-you just need to lower your sights a bit. In fact, this may be the best way to get the car of your dreams. For example only 19,000 Z/28 models were built in 1969. That means of the 243,000 Camaros built that year-over 200,000 were base models. Chevrolet only sold 86,000 SS396 Chevelles in 1969. However, they sold over 400,000 Malibus that year. Now some of those were 4-door sedans and wagons, but over a quarter million were 2 door V8 models. And that's only one year. The body was basically the same from 1968-72. Ditto for Pontiac LeMans and Olds Cutlasses.  Even in a strike-shortened year-Pontiac only sold 1,286 1972 Trans-Ams, but nearly 30,000 base model Firebirds rolled off the line. Chrysler made over 100,000 Darts in 1971, but only about 7,700 were 340 Demon models. Of the 80,000 plus 1970 Challengers sold, only about 18,000 were R/T models. Ford sold over 70,000 fastback Mustangs in 1969, but that's a fraction of the quarter-million plus other models, in that single model year! The bottom line is, there are a ton of viable Camaros,Firebirds,Chevelles,Satellites,Dusters,Challengers,Mustangs, etc out there that people don't even consider because their not premium models. However-3 or 4 grand for a pristine base-model Firebird is a lot better buy than 10 or 12 grand for a "restorable" Disco-era Trans-Am. You can use the difference to trick out the car-engine improvements, suspension, tires,wheels,etc. And it may free you to make something really badass-Instead of restoring an SS396 to the nth degree,you might drop a 720hp 572 into a '68 Malibu! Or forget that 383 Road Runner-how about a 528 Hemi Satellite? Don't despair, just use a little imagination. Mastermind  

Is a carb and intake worth $5,000 or $10,000? Not in my book!!

I've touched on this issue before, but someone asked me about it again recently. An acquaintance wanted a '69-70 Mach 1 Mustang. He found a clean, rust-free 1969 model at a reasonable price. It had a 351W with a 2bbl carb and an FMX automatic. He said-dead serious-"It's a great deal on a solid car, but I'd really rather have a 4bbl version." My response- "Are you out of your mind?"  "Buy the car, go over to Summitt Racing and get an Edelbrock Perfromer manifold for $200 bucks, and a matching 600 cfm Performer carb with Ford throttle linkage for $359 and live happily ever after!" "Or be a dumbass, and instead of spending $600, spend another 5 grand on an "Original" factory 4bbl model!"  "When you put it that way it sounds stupid." He said "You think?"  I said.  However, I've seen it numerous times. A Mopar fanatic I know almost didn't buy a one-owner, low-mileage 1968 Charger in unrestored, but great condition because the engine was a 2bbl 383! Another idiot didn't buy an awesome 1972 Chevelle SS with a 2bbl 350, and paid more for a Malibu not as nice with a 4bbl on it!! Apparently this stupidity is rampant.  I did some research, and there are a lot of great cars that can be stolen because of their induction system. And a carb and intake is an easy swap that only costs about $600, and that's if your buying the carb and intake brand-new!! A lot of us have these laying around our garages or our friends do. Yet people are paying 3,4,5 or even 10 thousand dollars more for the same car because of a CARBURATOR??!!!  Keep the 2bbl setup in your garage in case you want to sell the car to someone really anal. Here's a list of cars that you can steal out from under dummies that avoid them.  # 1. 1971-73 Ford Mustang / Mercury Cougar. A lot of these have 351C's with 2V induction, that you can buy for a lot less than the 4V models. # 2. 1970-75 Pontiac Firebird Esprit / Formula. There are a lot of Firebird Esprit and Formula 350 models out there with 2bbl induction; and a good number of Esprit models had 400s with 2bbl induction. # 3. 1970-75 Chevy Monte Carlo. Quite a few were built with 350 2bbls in this vintage. # 4. 1968-74 Dodge Charger. While there are a lot of base-models with 318s out there, there are also quite a few with 383 and 400 big blocks with 2bbl induction. # 5. 1968-72 Buick Century and Olds Cutlass. 455 GS, GSX and 442 versions are rare and pricey, but there are millions of these cars with 2bbl 350 Buick and Olds motors under the hood. They make nice drivers, and a 4bbl swap really increases performance. Or you could use the thousands saved to build a stompin' 455.  Anyhow, for god's sake don't pass on a great car because of the carburator!!  Mastermind        

"Understudys" that are great buys!

Their are a lot of cars that offer the same performance of their more premium brothers at a much lower price. These can be great bargains, saving the potential owner thousands of dollars. # 1. This is a no-brainer. 1970-79 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. These cars have every bit the performance of a Trans-Am without the flashy graphics and bodywork. Back in the day, many automotive journalists preferred the Formula's understated styling. Some 1977-79 "California" and "High Altitude" models will have 403 Olds engines. # 2. 1970-79 Chevy Rally Sport Camaro. These cars have all the basics of a Z/28-most have the ubiquitous 350 under the hood, and a Turbo 350 automatic, or depending on the year, a Saginaw, Borg-Warner or Muncie 4-speed. When the Z/28 took a 21/2 year Hiatus-late 1974-early '77-the Rally Sport was the only performance Camaro available. # 3. 1971-74 LeMans Sport / GT. The 400 and 455 V8s were available all years. In fact, by '74 the GTO name was on the Ventura and the largest engine was a 350. The LeMans with a 400 or 455 and a 4-speed or Turbo 400 still available was more a "GTO" than the X-body that carried the nameplate. # 4. 1968-70 Dodge Coronet R/T. People fight with machetes for clean Road Runners and Super Bees of this vintage, but the Coronets are sometimes overlooked although they have 383 or 440 cubes under the hood.  # 5. 1971 Dodge Super Bee. For this one year only-the Super Bee was based on the Charger instead of the Coronet. The standard engine was still the 383, and around 6,000 were made; however they don't bring the money that the '68-70 models do. # 6. 1971-72 Chevelle SS / "Heavy Chevy" . For the 1st time since 1965 a Chevelle SS could be had with a small-block. ( The 396 was standard on 1966-70 models ). Although the SS package could be ordered with the 2bbl 307 or 2bbl 350, most had the 350 4bbl. The "Heavy Chevy" offered a blacked out grille and an SS style domed hood at a lower price. The 402 big block was optional on the HC, but most were 350s. # 7. 1972 Olds 442. Although the styling was pretty much the same as 1970-71, the 442 went from a separate model to an option on the Cutlass, and the standard engine was a 350 with a 2bbl.  (This was the first time since 1964 you could get a 442 with an engine under 400 cubes, as 1965-71 models had the 400 or 455 as standard equipment ). Options included a 350 4bbl, and two 455s-one rated at 250 hp and the other the last "W30" at 300. These are rarer, yet cheaper than the older models. Mastermind     

Great buys that slip through the cracks!

For some reason, certain model years of cars don't bring the King's ransom that others do, and the reason isn't always lesser performance or value. However, these cars can be steals for the rest of us. Here's a list of some cars that can be bought for way less than one a year or two newer or a year older. # 1. 1967 Pontiac GTO . People will pay blood and a first-born child for a 1964-66 model, and the same goes for 1968-70 models. The 67 models have cleaner styling than the '66, and are lighter than the '68. Further, from '64-66 if you wanted an automatic you got the 2-speed Super Turbine 300 ( Powerglide ) which didn't have near the performance of the 4-speed models. 1967 models had Turbo 400s which were a vast improvement. Displacement was bumped from 389 to 400 cubic inches, so performance, if anything improved. It's a mystery why these cars are underpriced, but I'd definitely take advantage of it.  # 2. 1967 SS396 Chevelle. Just like their GTO cousins, people pay more for 65-66 models and 68-70 models than they do these. Again, their lighter than the 1968 models and have just as much power. Maybe it's the one-year only Impala-looking grille. Whatever, they are still a bargain. # 3. 1972 Plymouth Road Runner . These are the exact same bodystyle as the '71, which brings way more money. However-the Hemi and 440 / Six-Packs were no longer available, and this was the year the industry switched from gross to net horsepower ratings, so it looks like power was down more than it actually was. On the other hand, the base engine was increased from 383 to 400 cubes, and electronic ignition was introduced, and the 440 4bbl was still optional with a 4-speed or Torqueflite. # 4. 1975-76 Pontiac Trans-Am. These cars are an absolute steal.  Catalyst-free exhaust and the legendary 455HO and SD engines keep prices of the 70-74 models high. "Smokey and the Bandit" models-( 1977-78 ) are rising in value, but these are treated like Rodney Dangerfield-"No Respect". And the buying public is wrong. There were more T/As built in 1975 alone than in the previous five years and double that in '76, so their easier to find, and they still had 400 or 455 cubes under the hood, standard posi rear ends,and the great handling suspension. Yet for some reason-maybe the movie after 30 plus years-the "Bandit" versions bring more money but don't offer any more bang for the buck. #5 1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1. 1971 models bring more money because of the availability of the 429 and the Boss 351, even though those are rare. 1973 models bring more money because their the last of the breed. ( 1974 introduced the awful Pinto-based Mustang II ). This makes the 72s a great buy. Most have the venerable 351C for power, and the styling is the same. Like I said, the buying public is fickle, but if you want one of these cars-it's to your benefit.  Mastermind      

The point of diminishing returns.....

Car guys have a tendency to always want the biggest and best of everything, and some of us, no matter how fast our cars go, are always chasing every last ounce. On the racetrack that's good, but if you drive the car at all sometimes that gets counter-productive. # 1. Gears and higher-stall converters. For small blocks these are great crutches to launch a car lacking in bottom-end torque. For big blocks, not so much. The main reason is traction-whether it's a 400 Pontiac or 454 Chevy or 440 Mopar-if the engine is already making 450+ lbs ft of torque at low rpm, especially with street tires, all a higher stall speed converter will do is blow the tires off. More wheelspin will slow you down. And gears don't always help a big-block. My 442 had 3.23:1 gears when I got it. After I rebuilt the 455, it was fast-smoking 5.0 Mustangs or Tuned Port Corvettes and Camaros was no problem-so I thought if I put 4.11s in, it would really rocket off the line. A funny thing-It didn't seem one ounce quicker in low gear. It was quicker in 2nd and 3rd, but not low! And the with the 3.23s it got about 16 mpg, with the 4.11s mileage dropped to about 11 mpg, and the motor was buzzing at 3,500 rpm on the freeway. The car was a little quicker in a drag race, but I didn't feel the gain was worth the loss of mileage or drivability. The same thing happened to a friend who had a Rat-motored Monte Carlo. It ran 12.80s in the 1/4 with 2.73:1 gears, and 12.40s with 3.73:1s!!  He, too felt the loss of drivability, top-end, and easy cruising on the freeway wasn't worth the 4/10s in the 1/4. I'm not saying gears don't matter, but maybe not as much as you think on certain cominations. # 2. Bigger isn't always better. My brother has a GTO with a 400 built with the Edelbrock Torker II package-intake, cam, headers, Msd ignition. It's backed by a Turbo 350 and the rear end is the 3.36 ratio it came with. It has 14 inches of vacuum at idle, will literally spin it's tires as long as you want to stay on the throttle. It idles at 800 rpm, pulls hard to 6,200 and he's been beaten on the street or at the drags 2 times in 8 years. It runs consistent high 12s. Now friends say-and their right-"If you got a bigger cam, and RAIV / Edelbrock heads, and a Performer RPM or Victor manifold and some 4.30 gears, you could get into the 11s." I don't doubt it, but the bigger cam wouldn't idle as good and might need a bigger converter which would mean more wheelspin. And with the bigger heads, cam, and carb and intake, we'd be trading a lot of low-speed and mid-range torque for top-end speed. The car wouldn't be nearly as pleasant or as much fun to drive. # 3. Sometimes that "Last ounce" can bite you in the ass. Hot Rod magazine did a manifold test on small-block Chevys a while back. They found that the Edelbrock Performer RPM "Air Gap" and Weiand "Air Strike" manifolds-that raised the carb up and allowed air to flow under the plenum made 10-15 hp more than the conventional design. In sunny California, this was great. However, they got a ton of letters from angry people in the midwest and Rocky mountain states saying that when they installed this manifold on their cars, in fall and winter after driving the car and then parking it for a few minutes-like going to lunch-or shopping at the mall- they experienced carburator icing and their cars were virtually impossible to start in cold weather! Several of them said they were going to put their old manifold back on and gladly give up that 10-15 hp, to have a car that starts reliably!!  So be careful when searching for "a little bit more."  Mastermind       

Junkyard tips to save money and make big power!

If your restoring a musclecar and want it to look stock, there are a lot of ways to do it. And, looking stock and making big power can be done. Here's some tips I'll bet you didn't know. # 1. Small-block Chevy- If you have a "generic" L48 350-these were used in every model from 1969-1986 and want a quick power boost-here's a good one. Most post 1970 small-blocks cylinder heads have 76cc combustion chambers which make about 8.2:1 compression with stock pistons. 1981-86 305 heads have 58cc chambers which will bump compression up to about 9.6:1 on the average 350. Most 350s have 1.94 intake valves and 305s have 1.72 intakes, but the slight loss of airflow is more than made up for by the power and torque boost of the added compression. 1.94 valves can be installed in 305 heads, but before I spent a bunch of money on machine work I'd look at....1996-2001 Vortec Heads!  These breathe better than any factory head and better than a lot of aftermarket ones. Their 64cc chambers will give about 9.1:1 compression on stock 350s, and they'll accomodate cams up to .480 lift. If you want to run a bigger cam-you can swap in Comp cams "Beehive" springs, or machine the valve guides. Summit and Scoggin-Dickey offer pairs of brand-new Vortec heads for $650!! That's a screaming deal. You'll have to get a Vortec-style intake, but Edelbrock, Holley, and Weiand offer them for about $200. # 2. Big-block Chevy. A lot of people don't know it, but unless your building an all-out racer-your better off with standard heads. Here's why. Standard heads have 2.06 intake and 1.72 exhaust valves and oval ports. High Performance heads have 2.19 intake and 1.88 exhaust valves and rectangular ports. Hot rod magazine did a dyno test a few years ago on identical 454 Chevy engines-i.e. same cam,carb and intake, etc. The high performance heads did not show a noticeable gain until 6,200 rpm!!  Think about that-no matter how badass your ride is-how often are you going to be above 6,200 rpm? So, if your core came out of a station wagon or Suburban or Impala, don't despair and search the galaxy for rectangular port heads. Spend the money where you'll get the most bang for the buck-cams, exhaust, carb and intake, ignition, gears, converter, etc. # 3. Pontiacs. Unless you absolutely have to have an aluminum intake, the Iron Q-jet manifolds that came stock on Pontiac engines from 1967-74 are quite good. Popular Hot Rodding did a manifold comparison on a fairly hot 400 a few years ago. The Edelbrock Performer was about equal to the stocker, or only showed a 2-3 hp gain at any given rpm. All the others-( Holley, Weiand, Offy ) couldn't beat the stocker anywhere through the range, and a few even showed a loss below 3,500. The Torker II showed a 20 hp gain above 4,500 rpm. The newer Performer RPM is said to be even better than the Torker II, but it won't clear T/A shaker hoods without modification. Now if you have a 1975-79 engine the shoe is on the other foot. These have a restrictive throttle opening which really limits power above 4,000 rpm. "Spread Bore" Q-Jet replacement Holleys won't work on this manifold because the throttle blades can't open fully. If you have or want to build a 75-79 engine, I would get the earlier factory manifold or go with a Performer. Also-75-79 350 and 400 "6X" smog heads are the best breathing factory heads other than Ram Air IVs. Their 90-101cc chambers will be fine on a 455-compression would be around 9.4:1-but on a 400 they'll have to be milled to get decent compression. However they can be milled up to .060 inch.  # 4. Small-block Mopar. Thank the truck and SUV explosion in the '90's. 1992 and later "Magnum" heads breathe better than any other factory head including the legendary 1968-73 340 heads. These heads will bolt up to 91 and earlier blocks, but you'll need a "Magnum" style intake. Edelbrock has you covered with Performer and Performer RPM incarnations. Or you could just get the whole engine-They were used in tens of millions of Dodge Trucks and vans and Jeep Cherokees. A 360 stroked to 408 with Magnum heads would make one hell of a sleeper for your Duster or Cuda. Something to think about if your running in the stock appearing drags, or just want it to look stock. Mastermind                

If you bought something obsolete.....Here's how to fix it without breaking the bank!

In the last post I touched on cars with obsolete or virtually unattainable parts. If you have or want to buy one of these cars there is a way to make them fun and reliable. They won't be totally original, but you'll be able to get parts and can take a trip without fear of something breaking down and stranding you. For example if you have a 1964-67 Buick Skylark-one of the better looking '60's GM "A" bodies-chances are it has a 300 inch Buick V8 and a two-speed super turbine 300 automatic. No one makes parts for the 300s. However, from 1968-77 Buick put millions of 350 V8s in all of their models. Even bone-stock, the modern 350 will have much more power, and you can usually find parts at Autozone or Pep Boys. If you want to hot rod it, T/A performance offers intake manifolds and cams for Buicks, and you can buy headers from Hooker and performance distributors from MSD or Accel. As for the trans-your in luck-a BOP bolt-pattern TH350 will bolt right in. They are the exact same length as the ST300 and the rear trans mount and the driveshaft yoke is the same. You could even use the stock shifter-you just won't be able to manually engage low gear. ( Not a problem with a good shift kit ).  Believe me, the 350 / TH350 combo will give you 10 times the performance and reliability of the 300/ ST300 package, and to 99% of the population-look like it grew there. The same goes for the other GM divisions-the TH350 is a way better trans the Powerglide / ST 300. If you have a mid-'60's Oldsmobile-a later model 350 or 403 is going to make a lot more power easier and cheaper than a 330 V8. Especially Pontiacs-don't screw around with a 326 V8 -a 400 or 455 is a bolt-in swap!  The same goes for Mopars-don't try to hop up a 273 V8-a later 360 will make twice the power for half the money. And don't mess with the "Old" -i.e pre-1967 318s-nothing interchanges with the 1967-91 LA engines or 92 and later "Magnum" engines. Ditto for the "Old" big blocks-a 361 or a 413 is a money pit-your much better off getting a later model 383 / 400 or 440.  As for Fords-there is a lot of aftermarket support for "FE" engines-352/390/428-Edelbrock even makes aluminum heads-but forget the old 292 and 312 Y blocks ( Unless your restoring a 57 T-Bird to the nth degree ) a 289 / 302 will again- make twice the power for half the money. Or you could go with a 351W. Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind  

Buying the right car to begin with Part 2....

Like I said in the last post, a lot guys over-estimate their mechanical ability when tackling a project. Magazine articles contribute to this a lot with articles on how "easy" some major procedure is. For example using 1970-81 Camaro / Firebird spindles, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, booster, etc to convert 1964-72 "A" bodies with front drum brakes to disc using junkyard and / Autozone / Pep Boys / Napa etc, parts. They all say how "easy" the swap is. In their state of the art shop with lifts, air tools, and career mechanics doing it, sure it's easy. Have you ever tried to change spindles or ball joints in your driveway with hand tools? Not so easy. Ditto for engine and tranny swaps. Drilling holes in the frame, moving the crossmember, shortening the driveshaft, etc, sounds easy, but is actually a pain in the ass. Doubly so in your garage, not a shop. Here's some advice on how to avoid untold grief when taking on a project. Big Mistake # 1. "I'm changing the engine anyway, so it doesn't matter what the car has in it to start with."  GM,Ford or Mopar, especially if the car is a six-cylinder model and your swapping in a V8, this is most people's major goof.  Here's why-they get a short block or long block of whatever V8 they want from a friend or junkyard or auto parts place. They forget that nothing from the six interchanges. The starter,alternator,water pump, fuel pump,power steering pump and hoses, all the brackets,valve covers, timing cover, oil pan, distributor, intake and exhaust manifolds, throttle cables, battery cables, all that stuff is needed, and if you don't have it, it can be expensive and time-consuming to put all that stuff together. Whereas, on the other hand if you bought say a Camaro with a 350 that had a bad crank or whatever, and you bought a killer 383 long block from a machine shop-all that previously mentioned stuff off the 350 would work, saving you a ton of money and time. Further-they don't consider the radiator-one designed for a 225 inch Slant-six is not going to cool that killer 440 your building. That six-cylinder Nova-guess what? After you drop in that killer Rat-the front springs are not going to hold up the front end properly, and the monoleaf springs are going to windup and wheel-hop so bad under acceleration that you'll rip out the driveline real quick. And those 9-inch manual drum brakes on all 4-wheels? I wouldn't want to try stop from several 100+mph passes with those! A V8 Nova that cost a few hundred more, but had factory front disc brakes and multi-leaf springs in the rear would be a much better starting point! Big Mistake # 1A- Cross-breeding and upgrading-even the same brand. This is the other major goof -especially on GM products. "All GM stuff interchanges, way better than Fords and Chryslers".  That's true up to a point-but let's say you want to build a killer 1983-88 "G" body-with a stompin' small-block Chevy in it. I would pay $1,000 more for a same-or worse condition Chevy Monte Carlo or Pontiac Gran Prix of this era than I would for a Buick Regal or Olds Cutlass. Here's why- 90% of the Montes and GPs of this Vintage have 305 Chevys under the hood. Conversely, 95% of the Cutlasses and Regals have 231 inch Buick V6s or 307 inch Olds V8s in them. The 305 Monte Carlo and Gran Prix will be a bolt-in swap for your badass 350, 383, or 406 small-block Chevy. The Olds and Buick-1st off-you need a new transmission-BOP engines have a different bellhousing than Chevys. ( Some 200R4s have the dual-pattern bellhousing, not all ). Secondly-the motor mounts, and all the previously mentioned accessories are completely different. Or let's say you buy a nice 1968-72 Buick Skylark 2 dr and decide to build a GSX clone. Great-where are you going to get a 455 Buick engine? They've been out of production for 35 years- are not very plentiful in junkyards,( and they don't have 1/10th the aftermarket support that Pontiacs do ) If you find one, Yeah, the 455 will bolt up to the Turbo 350 in the car, and unless the engine has more than 500 hp, the TH350 will probably hold up-but how accurate do you want your "Clone" to be? Original 455 engined GSXs had Turbo 400s.  (A few were 4-speeds, but that's a different can of worms-clutch linkage, pedals, bellhousing etc.) Which means you not only have to locate a short-shaft BOP bolt-pattern TH400, ( Not an easy task, as they were only installed in GTOs,Gran Prixs, Firebirds, and 442s. Unlike Chevys, which used shorty TH400s in trucks for years and years), you have change the driveshaft yoke, and if you use a long-shaft TH400 you also have to move the crossmember and shorten the driveshaft, and install the electric kickdown. And again- a lot of the external accessories are different. Easy as pie,right because all GM stuff interchanges? Not always. Big Mistake # 2. "Saving Money" on an "Off-brand" project. This bites a lot of people in the ass. For example-you decide to build a '55-57 Buick, Olds or Pontiac instead of a Chevy. 1st off-The Chevys had a modern, open driveline from '55 on-the others used the old-fashioned "Torque-tube" and Hydro-matics up until '58. That means whether using a stick or automatic-your going to have to custom fabricate a driveline, transmission crossmember, and probably use a 57-64 Pontiac rear end, ( good luck finding one of those) or ( Cha-Ching! a custom 9 inch Ford ). Reproduction body parts for 55-57 Chevys are easy to find, but how many companies make 1/4 panels, front fenders or door skins for '56 Oldsmobiles? This happens on later, more modern stuff too. Sure, you can get anything you want for a Mustang, but what about a Mercury Cyclone? Try to find a grille for a 1972 Gran Torino. Restoring a Road Runner or 'Cuda / Challenger? Your covered. What about "C" bodies-Sport Furys or Monacos? Not a lot of Duster / Dart repro parts out there. The other "Shoot yourself in the foot" deal is buying and trying to restore a car with an obsolete engine. Small-block and Big-block Chevys, Pontiacs, FE Fords, and Most Mopars have great aftermarket support. But 292 and 312 "Y-block" or Flathead Fords? 354 or 392 Hemi Chryslers? 215, 300 and 340 inch Buick V8s, or 394 Oldsmobiles are very different from their later brothers and parts are almost non-existent. There's probably a few other traps I missed, but these tips should help most people stay out of trouble. Mastermind              

Just buy the right car to begin with!!

I talk to a lot of people that buy musclecar projects and then sell them half-finished ( usually losing money in the process ) or let them sit unfinished in their driveway or garage for years. I think the reasons for this are two fold. One, people get excited over starting the project and buy something that needs work beyond their mechanical capabilities. Two, they get frustrated because the project is a lot harder and a lot more expensive to build than they first thought. Here's some good advice to avoid this problem. # 1. Get the proper raw material. I know a guy that wanted to build a killer '70s Trans-Am, or "clone" if he had to from a lesser Firebird. He got fixated on his neighbors 1976 Firebird. It was a one-owner car that his neighbor had bought new, and it was in exceptional condition. And the price was reasonable-if you wanted an old Firebird for a driver. But making a snarling T/A clone to challenge Corvettes and Dodge Vipers? This was the wrong car. It was a base-model with a 250 inch Chevy six and an automatic! I told him-"This car has no guages, no posi rear, no sport suspension, and you'll need a different engine and transmission, and you'll have to chase a ton of small parts." "For what it'll cost to make this car what you want, you'll be spending way more money than you would if you just bought a Trans-Am to start with."  "A Trans-Am or a Formula 400 is going to have the guages, the suspension, the posi rear end, and a Pontiac V8 already in it." Luckily he listened to me, and instead bought a 1977 400, 4-speed, T-Top equipped Formula for only a few hundred more than his neighbor wanted for the six-cylinder base-model.  With the money he'd have spent chasing parts that the Formula already had-he was able to build a killer 400-i.e Edelbrock heads,cam and intake,etc, and install a Richmond 5-speed. I guarantee he never would have got the car finished if I'd let him buy the neighbor's car. # 2. Acknowledge the limitations of the car, and your ability. I know a guy that bought a a 1970 Javelin that was in pristine condition. He wanted to make it a Camaro / Mustang fighter. His plan was to install a killer 401, a 4 or 5-speed stick, and a killer "G" machine suspension. Problem was it had a 304 with a 2bbl, an automatic and it had 4-wheel drum brakes. Much to his dismay-he found that finding front disc brakes for a 1970 Javelin was very hard. The 1971 and later models were different. Nobody had an aftermarket setup that wasn't outrageously priced. Further-he couldn't find a bellhousing and clutch linkage anywhere. Jeep Cherokees or CJ5 stuff wouldn't easily adapt to the Javelin. And no one offered suspension pieces. He kept it for a few years, never really did much with it, and sold it for less than he paid for it. Now if he'd been building a Camaro, Mustang, or even a Dodge Challenger-there'd have been a myriad array of parts available from the factory, the aftermarket, and in junkyards. He could have easily built the badass machine he wanted. Or if he absolutely had to have a hot rod Javelin, it would have behooved him to bite the bullet and spend more money and find a 1968-74 Javelin or AMX with a 360 / 390 / 401 and a 4-speed and factory front disc brakes and factory front and rear sway bars. Edelbrock makes aluminum heads, cams and intakes for AMC V8s, so more power would be easy, and some KYB or Koni shocks, and some Z-rated tires would help handling. However- he was still dreaming-a 401 Javelin is not going to throw fear into the hearts of 440 Challenger owner or even a strong small-block Camaro or Mustang. The bottom line is-the GM,Ford and Mopar models have the huge advantage of parts availablity and interchangeability. # 3 Don't under-estimate the amount of work a project may need. Sometimes, with rust issues, or water or fire damage, it's just better to pass and pay more money for a better car to start with. And be realistic about missing parts. Yes, finding just about anything for a small-block Chevy is easy. But what about a 330 Olds V8? or a 428 Ford? Ditto for body parts and trim. finding a dash or a fender for a Chevelle or a Mustang is easy. But what about a 1967 Barracuda? ( Way different from the 70-74 "E" bodies that everyone has )  Think hard before you jump into a project and listen to people who have done them before. Chances are their not trying to discourage you, their just trying to save you from losing money or making the same costly mistakes they once did. Mastermind      

Help make the "Junkyard Dog" a reality!!

Got some positive feedback on the proposed "Junkyard Dog" project idea. I've spoken to Hot Rod and Popular Hot Rodding about it. If enough people ask for it, they might let me serialize the build over a few issues and maybe do a feature or drag test on it when it's done. Please show your support and email these 3 guys- Johnhunkins@sorc.com, (Popular Hot Rodding ) or davidfrieburger@sorc.com, ( Hot Rod ) or Rob Kinnan Hotrod@hotrod.com ( also Hot Rod ) and let them know how cool an Idea you think it is!!  If I get enough support and one of the magazines does pick it up, maybe we can do a reader participation thing-have an online vote about which car to build, or what type of build-hardcore drag racer, G-machine, sleeper etc. Look at it this way-you don't even have to go out-just type on your computer and be part of something fun!!  Mastermind

Project Junkyard Dog?

I'm thinking of building a project car using a cheap, even ugly car, using mostly junkyard parts and serializing the build on this site, and possibly in a national magazine if they'll give me the space. Here's a few ideas I'm kicking around; email me and let me know which ones you like best. JYD # 1. I have a 390 hp 428 Pontiac engine in my garage out of a 1969 Gran Prix. It's been sitting for years, and will need a rebuild, but it's all there. I'm thinking of stuffing it in a 1971-77 Ventura and going one of two ways-hardcore drag-race style suspension for maximum 1/4 mile performance, or ( since a lot of Camaro / Firebird pieces interchange ) adding T/A sway bars, steering box, brakes, etc salvaged from wrecked F-bodies and making it a low-budget g-machine. Either way it would be a killer sleeper. JYD # 2. I also have a 455 Olds engine in my garage that has a spun main bearing. Dropping that into a 78-88 "G" body- preferably a Cutlass-but even a Buick Regal or Pontiac Gran Prix would make a killer sleeper. I'm thinking one of two ways-NASCAR tribute style-roll cage, radiused fenderwells, fat tires, loud exhaust and graphics- or Stone stock looking sleeper-quiet exhaust,skinny tires, factory hubcaps-etc. JYD # 3. A friend has a Nissan 280ZX with a blown engine, and I have Vortec-headed 350 Chevy out of a wrecked 1998 GMC van. Z motorsports still sells an excellent motor mount / swap kit to put the SBC in any 1970-83 Z-car, and it wouldn't take much to get 325-350 hp out of my core. These make dynamite drag racers-the independent rear suspension really hooks up, and since the V8 is only about 100 lbs heavier than the Nissan 6, they still handle decent. JYD # 4 My dad has a Jaguar XJ / 6 with a blown engine. That Vortec 350 would go in there pretty easy, and make it a stealthy BMW fighter....  Let me know what you think!!  Mastermind   

More cars that don't exist!

Fridays post got some feedback and people wanting more information about "Phantom" cars-and why they do or do not exist. Here's some more. # 1. There are no LS6 Monte Carlos. I explained why they weren't in Corvettes in the previous post. The 454 was available in Monte Carlos, with either a Turbo 400 or a Muncie 4-speed, but it's the hydraulic-cammed 360 hp LS5. Rumors persist that at least 5 LS6 Montes were built, but I have never seen one, or a build sheet or a window sticker for one. The LS6 was sold as a crate engine until 1991, so I don't doubt that there are many cars running around with them, but factory installations were limited to 1970 and 71 SS Chevelles, a few SS El Caminos, and the previously mentioned 1100 or so 1971 Corvettes. # 2. The last "W30" Olds 442 was built in 1972. The "W30" package was introduced in 1968 on the 400 inch 442. It included an aluminum intake, revised heads and a hotter cam, as well as a funtional Ram Air system. These were grossly underrated at 360 hp. ( All that special stuff only gained 10 hp? The standard 442 engine was rated at 350! ) The option was continued when the 455 was allowed in the "A" bodies for 1970. These were also hugely underrated at 370 hp. Compression ratios were lowered in 1971, but other than that the package continued, rated at 300 net hp until 1972. The 455s were available until 1976, but they were generic "station wagon" engines-no hot cams, aluminum intakes,etc. After this, Oldsmobile shamelessy put the W30 moniker on any Cutlass performance package-the worst being the 1979 Hurst / Olds with a 180 hp 350 V8, and the 1984 Hurst / Olds with a 307 putting out about 155 hp!!  # 3 The last 455HO Pontiac was built in 1972. It was available in GTOs, Firebirds, and LeMans models. These awesome engines featured Ram Air IV heads and aluminum intake, special round-port iron headers, and the "068" cam-which was milder than the RAIV grind. In 1975 you could buy a Trans-Am with a 455 V8 and a 4-speed, that said "455HO" on the shaker scoop, but it was a "station wagon" 455 with 7.6:1 compression rated at 200 net horsepower. Only 857 were built.  The option was continued for 1976, as simply "455 Performance package" and 7,058 were built. The 455 was dropped for 1977.  # 4. The last LT1 350 small-block was installed in 1972 Corvettes and Z/28 Camaros. They featured "2.02" heads, forged pistons, a solid-lifter cam, an aluminum intake and a 780 Holley carb. Like the LS6, the LT1 was sold as a service replacement engine in short-block or long-block form until 1991, so you may see them in everything from Vegas to 4x4 trucks, but they were only factory-installed in Corvettes and Camaros. Hope this clears things up a bit. Mastermind              

These cars don't exist!! And here's why!!!

I've touched on this issue before, but it drives me up the wall every time some yahoo starts talking about a car that he or a friend or relative once owned, yet they can't produce a window sticker, build sheet, fender tag, or any other documentation. I'd like to dispel the legend of these "Area 51" cars once and for all. # 1. There was never a Tri-Power 1967 GTO. Enthusiasts were furious when this option was dropped at the end of 1966. The parts could be ordered through dealership parts departments and they would bolt on to the 400 engines. Some dealers like Royal Pontiac would even install them for extra cost, but there was never a factory-built version. Period.  # 2. There was never a GTO station wagon. In 1971-72 you could get the "Endura" ( GTO ) front end and scooped hood on any LeMans model, including wagons. Also, the L78 400 and L75 455 V8s were also optional on any LeMans model. The LS5 455HO was NOT available in wagons. If some yahoo claims to have one, it's a LeMans Sport wagon with GTO emblems.  #3. Still more Pontiacs- There were only 295 SD-455 engines built in 1973, and they were all installed in Firebirds. 252 in Trans-Ams, and 43 in Formulas. The confusion comes from the fact that in early 1973 sales literature the engine was listed as being available in the Gran Prix, Grand Am, and GTO as well as the Firebird line. The buff magazines raved about the two prototypes-a red Trans-Am and a Bronze GTO. High Performance Cars magazine even voted the SD455 GTO their "Car of the Year".  However-the engines had trouble passing emissions with the RAIV cam and it was changed to the slightly milder RAIII cam, and the horsepower rating changed from 310 to 290. They also had trouble with the EGR valve function, and the connecting rod supplier, and the option was nearly killed. However, Herb Adams would not quit fighting for it, and it was finally certified in the F-bodies only in May or June, hence the low production. If your cousin Jethro had a tire-frying 455 1973 Grand Am, it was an L75 250 hp 455, not a Super Duty!!  # 4. There are no 1972 440 Six-Pack Chargers and Road Runners. Like the SD455 the following year-the "Six-Pack" was listed in very early 1972 sales literature rated at 330 hp-down substantially from the 385 hp rating of 1971. However they had trouble passing the stiffer 1972 emission standards and the option was scrapped. Rumors persist that "a few" i.e.-less than 10 "slipped through", but I have never seen one, or seen one verified by any Chrysler engineer or a magazine like Musclecar Review, Hot Rod or Hemmings Muscle Machines, nor have I ever seen a fender tag or window sticker for a 1972 model with this option. # 5. The "Cuda AAR" and Challenger T/A were made for one year only-1970-with the 340 Six-Pack option. Again-very early 1971 literature listed the option. And a Chrysler engineer verified to Musclecar Review that the early brochures had 1971 Challenger grilles airbrushed into the 1970 picture. Further muddling the waters-the 1971 R/T stripe package closely resembled the '70 T/A stripes. But there was never officially a 1971 version released. # 6. There was never any Boss 302 or Boss 429 Cougars. Ford built the Boss 302 and 429 Mustangs to get the engines certified for Trans-Am and NASCAR racing respectively. Bud Moore and a couple other race teams ran Cougar race cars with Boss 302s, but their was never a version sold to the public. The reason was the engines were so different from any other Ford engine and had so many one-off parts that it wouldn't have been cost-effective to make a Cougar version. Ditto for the Boss 429. You could get a Cougar with a 428CJ engine, and a couple of 428 Cougar Eliminators were converted to Boss 429s by Kar Kraft for drag racer "Dyno" Don Nicholson, but their was never a factory built version released to the public; Ford lost money on every single "Boss 9" Mustang, so they definitely didn't need a Mercury version. # 7. There are no 1972 Boss 351 Mustangs. The Boss 351 was made one year only-1971. It was rated at 330 hp,had 11.3:1 compression, a solid-lifter cam, and only 1,806 were built. The confusion starts because in 1972, the compression was dropped to 8.8:1, a milder cam was installed and the engine was re-named "351HO" and rated at 285 hp. Also, there was an 8.0:1 351CJ option that was rated at 266 hp, and the 1972 "Mach 1" striping package was very similar to the 1971 Boss stripes. # 8. There are no LS6 1970 Corvettes. The 11.0:1 compression, 450hp LS6 454 was slated to be available in Camaros and Novas as well as Chevelles, but the brass cut back on model proliferation, and it was only installed in the Chevelle line. It wasn't offered in Corvettes because Zora-Arkus Duntov-( Chief Corvette Engineer ) fully expected the even more radical 12.25:1 compression LS7 to make production as the 'Vette's top engine, but it too was killed by the brass at the last minute. Thus, if you see a 1970 Corvette with a 454, it's a 10.25:1, hydraulic-cammed 360 hp LS5. About 1,100 9.0:1 425 hp ( 325 net ) LS6's were installed in 1971 Corvettes. Hope this clears a lot up. Mastermind   

The iron is out there, you just have to look a little harder!

I've talked to a lot of people lately complaining that they can't find engines for their musclecar project. Now I agree that finding a 1963 date-coded 327 for your Impala SS, or a 1968 date-coded 383 for your Road Runner may be hard. But if your not competing in concours, and don't care about serial numbers, there's plenty of raw material out there, in sources you don't normally think of.  # 1. If your restoring a Javelin / AMX or Rebel Machine, or any other AMC product-the 360 V8 was used in Jeep Grand Wagonneers up until 1992 or 93. There's a lot of these in junkyards. # 2. The 351W Ford was used in trucks and vans up until 1997, as was the 460 big block.  # 3. Dodge trucks and Jeep Cherokees used the 318 and 360 Magnum engines until 2000. They are different from the 1967-91 models, but the free-breathing Magnum heads will bolt onto earlier blocks, and Edelbrock makes performance intakes that use a carburator. # 4. The 390 Ford "FE" engine was available in trucks up until 1976. # 5. The 348 / 409  Chevy engines were used in medium-duty trucks up until 1965. Stroker cranks that make up to 470 inches are available,and Edelbrock even makes aluminum heads for these engines. # 6. A lot of heavy-duty Chevy /GMC trucks-like C60 moving trucks up until 1984 have 427 or 454 "Truck blocks" or "Tall Blocks". These are different from the MKIV engines in cars and light-duty trucks. They have a different deck height and are a lot beefier. If you wanted to build a 540 inch stroker, these make a great base. Or if you on a tight budget-Edelbrock and GMPP make intake manifolds for "Tall Block" engines-you could have a cheap 427 for your '60's Chevy!!  Mastermind

Future Muscle Projects!

Just like you rarely see a '32 Ford 3-window hot rod, or a '40 Ford or a '55 Chevy or '57 T-Bird nowadays, in the future there won't be a lot of our beloved '60's and '70's cars left. Obviously, '80's and '90's V8 Camaros, Firebirds and Mustangs will be popular, as will the current Chargers, Challengers, Mustangs and Camaros. But there are quite a few other cars out there that will make great hot rod projects, that are largely overlooked now. Here's some of my favorites that I think have a ton of peotential. # 1. 1998-2003 2wd Dodge Dakota R/T  Pickup. These had a 360 Magnum V8 with 250 hp and 345 lbs ft of torque with a 4-speed automatic and a 3.92 limited-slip rear end, a lowered suspension, and fat 255/55/R17 tires. Bone-stock they turned in 15 second 1/4 mile times and 6.9 second 0-60 sprints. Think of how radical one would be with a bigger cam, better exhaust, and maybe a stroker crank to make 408 inches?  There are a lot of non-R/T models out there with 318 V8s and either a 5-speed stick or 4-speed auto. These have a lot of potential for very low bucks.  # 2. 1993-2002 V6 Camaro / Firebird. I see one of these cars with the supercharger ( or the whole engine ) from a Bonneville SSEI or Buick Riviera. Or you could take a cue from the Buick Grand National racer's handbook and stroke the 231 incher to 275 and put a higher pressure turbo on it. # 3. 1989-97 Thunderbird. My favorite is the Super Coupe with the Supercharged V6. Change the pulleys on the blower, O-ring the heads, and really crank up the power. Some 91-95 LX models have 302 V8s, and we all know there's a myriad of aftermarket parts for them. Some 1996-97 models have the 4.6 V8, but again because of the Mustang, there's no shortage of speed equipment. There's probably several others, i missed, but you get the Idea. Mastermind     

Sometimes it's best to "Run what you brung".... Or maybe get a different car!

A lot of people "Bite off more than they can chew" when buying or building a musclecar project, and often it's the fault of enthusiast magazines. The buff mags all sprout how "easy" it is to swap engines, trannys, suspension pieces, etc. But not everyone has a state of the art shop and an unlimited bankroll like these magazine projects. For example-yes, it's possible to put a 460 based 514 stroker motor in a Fox-bodied Mustang, but not's easy, cheap, or even necessary. I know "5.0" Mustang guys that run 10 second 1/4s with 302s, or 302 based 347s, either normally aspirated or with a blower or nitrous. If you have a Firebird with a Chevy engine-quite a few were built from 1977-81 because of emissions laws-it would be a lot cheaper and easier to just hop up the engine in the car, or replace it with another, more powerful, Chevy engine than it would be to convert it back to "Real" Pontiac power. Here's why -Chevrolet and BOP engines have different bellhousing bolt patterns. So the 1st and largest expense is going to be another transmission.  Secondly, the starter, water pump, fuel pump, alternator and power steering brackets are all different. Yeah, your buddy may have a 400 Pontiac block "laying around" that he'll sell you for a couple hundred bucks, but does it have the distributor, intake and exhaust manifolds, valve covers, oil pan, timing covers, flexplate, balancer, etc?  All that stuff adds up quick. On the other hand let's say you have the money to build a 1970 Hemi Challenger clone. 15 grand for a Mopar Performance Crate Hemi is planned for. Even if you have 50 or 60K in it when your done, that's still better than the 250 on up originals are bringing, right? Right. Except when searching for basic material, even though your replacing a lot of stuff, you'd be better off starting with a 383 version than a six-cylinder or 318 model. Here's why-the 383 model is going to have a big-block K-member, front disc brakes, a 727 Torqueflite tranny, and an 8.75 rear end. The six cylinder / 318 model is going to have the wrong K-member that will need to be raplaced with the Big-block member, it will have a 904 trans that will neither bolt up to or hold up to a 426 Hemi. It will have six-cylinder torsion bars that will have to be upgraded, and an 8.25 rear and small-block springs that won't hold up. The radiator will have to be replaced, and the base model will more than likely have 4-wheel drum brakes, that will need to upgraded. See what I'm saying?  Hope this helps everyone out.  Mastermind      

AMC Sleepers........

Everybody knows about the Plymouth Duster 340's rep as a giant killer, but I had a few people asking me about the AMC cars I mentioned in the post about "mini-musclecars".  AMC had some success in the musclecar era with the Javelin and AMX models-( See an earlier post- "The Welterweight Champ" ) Javelins and AMXs have kind of a "cult" following even today, but they were underpowered compared to the GM, Ford and Mopar offerings of the time. The top 390 in the AMX was only rated at 315 hp; The base model 400 in a GTO was rated at 350 hp., ditto for the Olds 442. The base 383 in a Road Runner was rated at 335 hp, the optional 440 at 375.  Even when AMC increased the cubes and output-the new for 1971 401 V8 had 330 hp-they were still behind. GM had lifted the ban on engines over 400 cubes in "A" and "F" body cars. A big 455 inch Firebird or 454 Chevelle had little to fear from a 401 Javelin in a drag race.  However in some of the stock and super stock, and modified classes the AMC econoboxes just dominated. The reasons were incredible power to weight ratios, and great traction because of the short wheelbases. The Gremlin only weighed about 2,400 lbs-about as much as a Vega. However the 304 V8 was optional in the Gremlin. The same 304 that propelled Mark Donohue to the Trans-Am championship in a Javelin. Even more dominating in the lower stock classes was the Hornet. I know, their square and ugly, like an old Volvo.  But they only weighed about 2,700 lbs, and could be ordered with a 360 V8. They had a better power to weight ratio than any small-block Nova or Camaro!!  The other bonus for sleeper-builders is the fact that AMC V8s, -are externally identical from a 290 to a 401. A buddy of mine stuffed a 401 out of a wrecked Matador cop car into his 304 Gremlin and murdered everyone in our street-racing scene!  Quite a few heavy-rep Camaros, Chevelles and Mustangs fell victim to that "Ratty Brown Gremlin".  A lot of these cars ended up in junkyards in the '80's and '90's. However, no one wants a Hornet or Gremlin today except hardcore AMC followers, so if you find one, it'll probably be cheap. Further, the 360 V8 was used in Grand Waggoneers until 1992 or 93, so there's plenty of buildable cores, and Edelbrock even makes performance Aluminum heads and intakes for them. 1977-80 "Spirit" models, are a re-badged Hornet, are a little heavier because of larger bumpers and safety regulations, but are still really light-( around 3,000 lbs ) have excellent weight distribution and traction, and with the 304 models-can really run with the right parts, or a 360 or 401 is a bolt-in swap.  Their not sexy like a Trans-Am or a Mustang, but like they say in the "F&F" movies- they make a great, cheap "10 second" car-if you want to go that far.  Mastermind       

Consider a "Mini-Musclecar!"

Because insurance companies raised their rates exorbitantly on cars with engines over 400 cubic inches in the early '70's, a lot of companies came out with "Insurance Beaters" that were good performers with smaller engines. A lot of these packages were just the same musclecar bodies offered with a smaller engine-i.e. the 350 powered T-37 Tempest and Olds Rallye 350, and Mopar offering the 340 in the Charger and Road Runner.  However, the real sleepers were the lightweight economy based models with performance packages. They offer as much bang for the buck now as they did back in the day-great performance for low-bucks. # 1. 1970-76 Plymouth Duster / Dodge Dart. With a curb weight under 3,000 lbs and incredible power to weight ratios, the 340 Dusters were legendary for "Dusting" bigger musclecars. Original 340 versions are rising in value, but 318 versions are the proverbial dime a dozen, and these can be hopped up easily, or a 360 is a bolt-in swap. Mopar Performance, Scat, Eagle and other companies offer stroker crank kits to turn a 360 into a 410. Or you can swap ina 440.  #2. 1968-77 Chevy Nova / Other GM X-bodies.  Novas have kind of a "Cult" following of their own, but you can still find them a lot cheaper than a same-year Camaro or Chevelle. Quite a few have 350s under the hood stock, Rat motors will fit, and many suspension and brake upgrades that fit a Camaro fit these cars. Also consider Pontiac Venturas from 1971-77. The 350 Pontiac versions can be made to run strong, and a 400 or 455 will bolt right in. # 3. 1971-77 Ford Maverick / Mercury Comet. Weighing about 3 grand even with 73 and later big bumpers, 302 versions can really rock if their set up right. A buddy's 440 Road Runner got his doors blown off by a stealthy hot 302 Maverick. Or you could use a 351W, or a 351W-based 392 or 427 stroker. Some Maverick "Grabber" and Comet GT versions have upgraded interiors and special graphics. # 4. 1971-76 AMC Hornet. Some of these had 360 4bbl V8s and were blistering fast. Others had 304 or 360 2bbls that can be hopped up. Not as sexy as the GM, Mopar, and Ford offerings, but because of their light weight and short wheelbase, they make excellent drag racers.  Mastermind     

If you can't afford '60's muscle, consider these gems from the '70's & '80s!

Classic 1960s muscle is getting more scarce and expensive all the time, and may be out of a lot of people's price range. However, there are still a lot of great buys out there from the '70's and '80's for reasonable prices-say in the under 10-15K range.  # 1. 1970-79 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. Even Disco era T/A's are commanding big dollars now, but you can still find a deal on a Formula, and except for the spoilers and graphics, they are the same car. Wrist-thick front and rear sway bars, front disc brakes, a posi rear end, full instrumentation and 400 cubes under the hood. Transmissions, depending on year are either a Muncie or BW T10 4-speed or a Turbo 400 or 350.  Some 1977-79 California and high altitude models may have 403 Olds engines. There was also a "Formula 350" version from 1971-77, that had, obviously, 350 Pontiac engines. These make great drivers, or a 400 or 455 will bolt right in.  # 2. 1974-80 Chevrolet Corvette. The vaunted Rat motors were gone by 1974, but these cars are still a screaming bargain. I have seen clean, good running examples on used car lots, and on the internet as low as $3995!  Most have L48 350 power and either a 4-speed or a Turbo 350. L82s are a little pricier, but still within range. # 3. 1985-91 Chevrolet Corvette. These cars are kind of overlooked by Vette afficionados in favor of the later LT1 and LS1 models, but they too are a screaming bargain. The Tuned Port Injected L98 350 makes about 250hp stock, and that can be upped by 100 or 150 very easily and still be emissions-legal.  # 4. 1987-93 Ford "5.0" Mustang. These are generally regarded as the most reliable and best performing. 225 hp stock, and that can be upped to 350-375 with bolt-on parts. I see these cars as low as $2,000 all the time. There is probably more speed equipment available for this car than anything else on the planet.  Tremendous bang for the buck. # 5. 1985-88 Buick Grand National / Regal T-Type. Clean examples of these are at the top of our price range, but worth it. Underrated by 100 at 245 hp, these cars ran very low 14s and very high 13s off the showroom floor. Don't buy 1983 or 84 models, they were carburated and not nearly as fast or reliable as the fuel-injected models. # 6 1987-92 L98 Z/28 Camaro / Pontiac Firebird Formula / Trans-Am. While most 3rd generation GM F-bodies had 305 motivation, you could get the L98 Corvette 350 as an option. No manual trans option, their all 700R4 automatics, as the T-5 stick only had a 300 lbs ft. torque rating, which was below the L98s 330-345 ( Depending on bodystyle ) lb ft rating. These make great sleepers. Might not be your '60's dream car, but you can still go fast and have a ball in these!  Mastermind 

The Last of the Finest.....Know what your looking at!

Since the musclecar market has gone insane, and profiteers are building cars from junk to make big dollars, the term "Buyer Beware" has never been more relevant. I see cars advertised in Hemmings and on the Internet for big dollars that are obviously fakes-they tout options that were not available on that model or that year. Like the 1973 Challenger with a 383.  I may miss a few, but here's a list of things to remember to avoid an expensive mistake. # 1. Although they were built through 1974, the Chrysle E-bodies ( Cuda / Challenger ) did not have big blocks after 1971. From 1972-74 the only engines available were the 318, 340 and 360 small blocks.  # 2. 1972 was the last year a big-block was factory installed in a Camaro. They were 402 cubic inches, but still marketed as "SS396".  # 3. 1974 was the last year you could get a 454 in a Corvette.  # 4. 1971 was the last year you could get a 429 in a Mustang. 1972 and 73 models were the same bodystyle, but the largest engine was a 351C.  # 5. 1976 was the last year you could get a 455 in a Trans-Am. The 400 was available until 1979.  #6  The last "Real" Hurst / Olds was built in 1975. This was the last one built on the "A" body Cutlass platform, and the last one with a 455 V8. The 1979 model was built on the downsized "G" body, had a 350, and was built entirely by Oldsmobile in Lansing. The 1983-84 models were based on the same "G" body, and had an even more anemic 307 inch Olds V8.  # 7. The last "Real"  i.e.-Javelin based AMX was built in 1974. The 360 and 401 engines were still available. The 1977-78 AMX's were ( Ugh! ) Hornet based and had a 258 inch 6 cylinder or a 304 V8 both with 2bbl carburation and about 130hp . Yuk.  # 8. There is no 1983 Corvette. The 1982s had an extended model year-( Like the 1969 Camaro ) and the C4 was introduced in April 1983 as a 1984 model.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind      

Read the fine print or footnotes!!

Sorry I haven't posted in a while but moving was rough. I'm back online now. I've had people ask me why in modern road tests of Hemi Challengers, Camaro SS's and Boss 302 Mustangs the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times vary as much as 1/2 second. People have also noticed this in vintage road tests of musclecars when they were new. There are a lot of factors involved, and they all contribute to this disparity between performance figures from one magazine test to another. I'll list them in no particular order. # 1. The miles on the test vehichle. A vehichle with less than 500 miles on it may not be "broken in" and could be noticeably slower than an identical vehicle with more miles. Hot Rod tested two different 5.0 Mustangs back in the early '90's. They were both 5-speeds with 3.08 rear ends.  The red one ran a 15.29 in the 1/4, and the blue one ran a 14.72.  However, the red one had only 150 miles on it. The blue one had been in the press fleet a while and had 5,600 miles on it. This happened to Car and Driver with two Buick Grand Nationals. The one with 3,000 miles on it was 3 or 4 tenths quicker than the one with only 800. # 2. Make sure your comparing "Apples to Apples."  The difference between a manual or an automatic trans can be minimal or substantial, especially if different axle ratios are involved. A 4-speed, 3.42 geared "Smokey and the Bandit" T/A is going to run a lot quicker than a 2.56 geared automatic model.  Same with modern stuff. Car and driver tested two different Hemi Challenger R/T's. The six-speed manual with a 3.92 axle was nearly 1/2 a second quicker than the 5-speed automatic with a 3.06 rear end.  Duh!!!         # 3.  Read about "Launch technique" and what the "professional driver on a closed course" really did. Back in the '70's Road and Track and Hot Rod tested 400, 4-speed WS6 Trans Ams. Road and track ran a 15.30, while Hot Rod ran a blistering 14.61-a lot quicker.  However Road and Track slipped the clutch at 1,800 rpm to "minimize" wheelspin and all shifts were "lift-throttle".  Hot Rod popped the clutch at 4,300 rpm, let the posi do it's job, and powershifted . That could do it.  # 4. Beware of "Ringers".  Some 40 years later, Jim Wangers finally admitted what we already knew. Car and Drivers May 1964 GTO test car that ran a blistering 4.6 sec 0-60 and 13.1 second 1/4 on 7.75-14 bias ply tires was a ringer. Royal Pontiac had pulled the production 389 and installed a blueprinted 421.  In 1993 Mitsubishi claimed a 13.7 sec 1/4 for their 3000 GT. With 15 psi in the tires, the rev limiter and knock sensor disabled, 104 octane gas in the tank, and the "professional driver" dropped the clutch at 6,200 rpm and powershifted at 7,000, which blew the $5769 transaxle after two runs.  Not exactly the way the average guy would drive the average production example.  Mastermind        

Relocating........

My company is transferring me to Las Vegas this coming week. I'll try to post something relevant or interesting, but If you don't see a new post for a few days, it's because I'm busy moving. I will be back soon with new stuff and my usual cynicism. Thanks for your patience. Mastermind

$2,000 for 30 hp? Like Ditka says-"Come on Man!"

I saw an article in High Performance Pontiac magazine about how they intalled a hydraulic roller cam in a 462 powered '70's T/A. It was admittedly a "Built" motor to begin with-429 hp and 544 lbs of torque on the dyno. They were happy that with no other changes, it picked up 30 horsepower. However-unlike later model small and big block Chevys, small-block Fords, and Mopar "Magnum" engines, Pontiacs never had roller cams as original equipment. Thus, all the parts for the conversion cost a total of $1,945!!!  Are you kidding me? 2 grand for a cam change?!  My brother and I built the 400 in his GTO for 2 grand from a junkyard core out of a 74 Gran Prix. On the dyno it cranked out 381 hp and 422 lbs of torque.  Another guy in his Goat club built a 400 that dyno'd 440 hp and 460 lbs of torque for $4,400, and that included $1,700 for aluminum Edelbrock heads!!  What are the editors thinking?  They should recommend parts that offer the most bang for the buck. A Performer Rpm intake manifold costs $219 through Summit Racing and makes 40 more hp than a stock intake. A set of Hedman Headers for a '70's Firebird costs $286 through Summit and ads 50 hp over stock iron exhaust manifolds. And they think 2K for 30 hp is worthwhile?  For 2 grand they could buy a balanced rotating assembly to stroke a 400 to 461 inches which will make a lot more than 30 ponies. As will the previously mentioned patterned after Ram Air IV Edelbrock Heads. I'd have stuck with a regular $300 hydraulic cam and spent the other $1700 on a high stall converter, some stiffer gears, a set of headers and new exhausts-( for some reason this car was built with stock iron exhaust manifolds) and maybe traction bars and drag radials to put all that power to the ground. I think these magazine writers say good things about certain parts because they stay in business off their advertising dollars. But they don't realize how stupid they sound sometimes. In another issue they said how great a fuel injection system was that cost 3 grand, and only made 8 hp and 17 lbs of torque more than the $600 Edelbrock Performer intake and carb combo it replaced. So do some research before you lay out your hard earned cash for some "State of the Art" thing that offers a minimal gain for a lot of dollar outlay. Mastermind      

Now that you know what you want, what do you Really need?

Like I said in the last post-a lot of people spend a lot of money buying or building a musclecar, and then rarely drive it, or sell it for a lot less than they invested, because their disappointed in the cars performance. A lot of the time, it's because they listened to friends, or fell into the bigger-is-better abyss. Here's how to avoid this problem. # 1. Let's say the musclecar you've decided on is going to be a driver or a weekend cruiser. If you live in a big city with a lot of traffic, an automatic transmission is a lot easier to drive in stop and go traffic than a stick with a heavy-duty clutch. If you live in Florida or Las Vegas or Arizona where it's hot the year round, it might behoove you to buy a car with functional, or at least repairable air conditioning. If you live in a rural area 50 miles from the nearest town, 4.11:1 gears are not going to be very pleasant on your commute. A car with 3.23 gears would get much better gas mileage and be a lot less buzzy at highway speed. See what I'm saying? # 2. Don't fall into the bigger is better trap. If you want a Corvette convertible to take your wife on cruises through the Napa Valley wine country or up to Lake Tahoe, does it have to be a solid-lifter 427 model with a "Rock Crusher" 4-speed and 4.56 gears? Wouldn't a hydraulic-cammed 350, automatic model with 3.36:1 gears be a lot more pleasant? # 3. When "Restifying" don't go crazy with expensive upgrades that have no real impact on the car's value or performance. For example-do you really need a Wildwood or Brembo aftermarket 4-wheel disc brake setup? Unless your hot-lapping at Laguna Seca, be it GM, Ford or Mopar, the stock braking system on you musclecar-especially if it has front discs-is more than adequate to safely stop the car in daily driving or at the weekend trip to the drags. When have you ever seen someone break a GM 12 bolt or Chrysler 8 3/4 rear end? Unless you have a 700hp engine with a 5 grand converter and a trans-brake, and wrinklewall slicks bolted to the rims, you aren't going to break one either. So why does your project need a custom-built Currie 9 inch Ford setup? Because that extra 1/8 to 1/4 inch on the ring gear makes such a huge difference? # 4. Be honest about your mechanical and tuning abilities. Not everyone can or wants to do bodywork. If you can't, then maybe spend a little more money for a car with a better body. If you can do basic maintenance, but aren't really a mechanic, then don't try to rebuild a numbers-matching engine. It might behoove you to pay a professional to do it, or buy a crate engine from GMPP, Ford SVO, or Mopar performance. If your not a mechanic and don't have access to an infrared exhaust analyzer, a scope, or carb synchronizers, then don't try to "Upgrade" to a multi-carb setup or aftermarket fuel injection. If a super stock Firebird can run 11.30s with a quadrajet, you don't really "need" a tri-power or dual quad setup, or fuel injection for anything other than the "Wow" factor when you open the hood. A simple 4bbl carb and intake might be best for you. Hope this helps everyone out Mastermind      

Plan your project around what you REALLY want, and you'll be a lot happier!

The title to this post seems so simple, yet I talk to many people who spend big dollars restoring a car, and then don't drive it much because they don't like how the car performs. Here's some tips to avoid this problem. # 1. Be realistic about what you want. Is it going to be a show car, a driver, a weekend cruiser, or a race car?  You may think you want a badass replica of Mark Donohue's Camaro or Richard Petty's Charger, but clambering around an 8-point roll cage every time you get in or out of the car gets old real quick.  If your going to drive the car at all, sometimes a later model is a better choice. Here's an example-I had a chance to buy a 1957 Pontiac ( No, it wasn't a fuelie Bonneville convertible ) or a 1965 Pontiac Catalina for about the same price. Since I wanted it as a driver / weekend cruiser I bought the 65 model. Here's why- the '57 had no power steering, no power brakes, kingpin front suspension, and drove like a dump truck. Further, it had a 347 inch Pontiac engine, and the horrible "Slim-jim" hydro-matic that won't shift over about half-throttle.  The '65 model had power steering, power brakes, control-arm front suspension, a 389 V8 and a Turbo 400 trans. The difference was night and day-the '65 drove like a modern car. If I wanted more power-there's a ton of speed equipment for 65 and later Pontiac V8s-(Practically nothing for the old 347 ) a Turbo 400 is an awesome tranny that will stand up to anything, and I could adapt later-model disc brakes or sway bars to the suspension without major work. Not so the '57.  See the difference?  # 2. Be realistic about how much power you really need or want. We all say we want 500 or 600 hp, but do we really?  That much power requires a lot of cubic inches, compression and camshaft. And that requires a lot of converter and stiff gears and a drag-style suspension to put all that power to the ground. Yes, in a magazine that 12:1, solid-roller cammed 600+ hp GMPP Rat Motor or Mopar Performance Crate Hemi looks and sounds great, and you can dream of your 10 second time slips. However-3,500 rpm converters, 4.56 gears, the motor buzzing at 4,000 rpm on the freeway, and two cans of octane booster per tankful while getting 5-8 mpg does not make for a pleasant driving experience. If your going to drive the car at all, compression ratios around 9.5:1 and a cam that idles at 800 rpm make a lot more sense. The GMPP "Turn-Key" ZZ4 350 in my 442 is rated at 355 hp and 405 lbs ft of torque. It idles at 750 rpm, pulls hard to 6,000 rpm, never gets over 180 degrees even in rush-hour traffic with the A/C on in 90 degree weather, gets 16 mpg, and if it didn't have headers on it, you wouldn't be able to hear it run. It runs high 13s in the 1/4 on street tires, through the mufflers on 89 octane gas. I don't have to take crap from little boys in their rice-rockets, or middle-aged guys in Hemi Chargers or turbo BMWs. I absolutely love driving the car, because it's so easy to drive. Yes, there's faster cars out there new and old, but not many, and none are as head-turning and unique as my Hurst / Olds. I had a radical 455 in it once ( I still have it if I sell the car to someone who wants Original Olds power ) but it's way nicer to drive now. For 99% of us a 400 hp engine will be more than enough, and easy to build and live with.  # 3. Be realistic about your cars capabilities, even with modifications. For example if you want to go autocrossing or slaloming, a '70s Firebird would be a much better choice than a '60s Gran Prix. If I have to explain this one-then you have no business on this site, or around a car at all. If you want a drag racer a Nova is a better choice than an Impala. # 4.  Don't go crazy on buying an Ultra-premium model. This is most people's major goof. Now you've got a Boss 429 Mustang or a Hemi Cuda. That sits in the garage 11 months out of the year and isn't driven 100 miles a year because "It's too valuable" and the owner is terrified of wrecking it or blowing the motor. He'd be much happier with a 351W Mach 1 Mustang or 383 Challenger that he could take to work or to the store once in a while, and even run through the gears and ( Gasp!! ) powershift and spin the wheels on it once in a while!  # 5. A vintage car is a toy, not an investment. Buy the goddamn 350 / automatic Malibu convertible because you want a Chevelle convertible. Don't pass that up and pay more for a 4-speed SS396 hardtop "Because it'll be worth more if I sell it."  Huh?  Your buying something solely on what it's worth if or when you get rid of it?  Did you marry your wife because you thought she'd give you a better divorce than the other women you dated?  Hello?!!!   If you follow these rules, you'll be a lot happier with your car. Mastermind