The Last of the Finest.....Know what your looking at!

Since the musclecar market has gone insane, and profiteers are building cars from junk to make big dollars, the term "Buyer Beware" has never been more relevant. I see cars advertised in Hemmings and on the Internet for big dollars that are obviously fakes-they tout options that were not available on that model or that year. Like the 1973 Challenger with a 383.  I may miss a few, but here's a list of things to remember to avoid an expensive mistake. # 1. Although they were built through 1974, the Chrysle E-bodies ( Cuda / Challenger ) did not have big blocks after 1971. From 1972-74 the only engines available were the 318, 340 and 360 small blocks.  # 2. 1972 was the last year a big-block was factory installed in a Camaro. They were 402 cubic inches, but still marketed as "SS396".  # 3. 1974 was the last year you could get a 454 in a Corvette.  # 4. 1971 was the last year you could get a 429 in a Mustang. 1972 and 73 models were the same bodystyle, but the largest engine was a 351C.  # 5. 1976 was the last year you could get a 455 in a Trans-Am. The 400 was available until 1979.  #6  The last "Real" Hurst / Olds was built in 1975. This was the last one built on the "A" body Cutlass platform, and the last one with a 455 V8. The 1979 model was built on the downsized "G" body, had a 350, and was built entirely by Oldsmobile in Lansing. The 1983-84 models were based on the same "G" body, and had an even more anemic 307 inch Olds V8.  # 7. The last "Real"  i.e.-Javelin based AMX was built in 1974. The 360 and 401 engines were still available. The 1977-78 AMX's were ( Ugh! ) Hornet based and had a 258 inch 6 cylinder or a 304 V8 both with 2bbl carburation and about 130hp . Yuk.  # 8. There is no 1983 Corvette. The 1982s had an extended model year-( Like the 1969 Camaro ) and the C4 was introduced in April 1983 as a 1984 model.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind      

Read the fine print or footnotes!!

Sorry I haven't posted in a while but moving was rough. I'm back online now. I've had people ask me why in modern road tests of Hemi Challengers, Camaro SS's and Boss 302 Mustangs the 0-60 and 1/4 mile times vary as much as 1/2 second. People have also noticed this in vintage road tests of musclecars when they were new. There are a lot of factors involved, and they all contribute to this disparity between performance figures from one magazine test to another. I'll list them in no particular order. # 1. The miles on the test vehichle. A vehichle with less than 500 miles on it may not be "broken in" and could be noticeably slower than an identical vehicle with more miles. Hot Rod tested two different 5.0 Mustangs back in the early '90's. They were both 5-speeds with 3.08 rear ends.  The red one ran a 15.29 in the 1/4, and the blue one ran a 14.72.  However, the red one had only 150 miles on it. The blue one had been in the press fleet a while and had 5,600 miles on it. This happened to Car and Driver with two Buick Grand Nationals. The one with 3,000 miles on it was 3 or 4 tenths quicker than the one with only 800. # 2. Make sure your comparing "Apples to Apples."  The difference between a manual or an automatic trans can be minimal or substantial, especially if different axle ratios are involved. A 4-speed, 3.42 geared "Smokey and the Bandit" T/A is going to run a lot quicker than a 2.56 geared automatic model.  Same with modern stuff. Car and driver tested two different Hemi Challenger R/T's. The six-speed manual with a 3.92 axle was nearly 1/2 a second quicker than the 5-speed automatic with a 3.06 rear end.  Duh!!!         # 3.  Read about "Launch technique" and what the "professional driver on a closed course" really did. Back in the '70's Road and Track and Hot Rod tested 400, 4-speed WS6 Trans Ams. Road and track ran a 15.30, while Hot Rod ran a blistering 14.61-a lot quicker.  However Road and Track slipped the clutch at 1,800 rpm to "minimize" wheelspin and all shifts were "lift-throttle".  Hot Rod popped the clutch at 4,300 rpm, let the posi do it's job, and powershifted . That could do it.  # 4. Beware of "Ringers".  Some 40 years later, Jim Wangers finally admitted what we already knew. Car and Drivers May 1964 GTO test car that ran a blistering 4.6 sec 0-60 and 13.1 second 1/4 on 7.75-14 bias ply tires was a ringer. Royal Pontiac had pulled the production 389 and installed a blueprinted 421.  In 1993 Mitsubishi claimed a 13.7 sec 1/4 for their 3000 GT. With 15 psi in the tires, the rev limiter and knock sensor disabled, 104 octane gas in the tank, and the "professional driver" dropped the clutch at 6,200 rpm and powershifted at 7,000, which blew the $5769 transaxle after two runs.  Not exactly the way the average guy would drive the average production example.  Mastermind        

Relocating........

My company is transferring me to Las Vegas this coming week. I'll try to post something relevant or interesting, but If you don't see a new post for a few days, it's because I'm busy moving. I will be back soon with new stuff and my usual cynicism. Thanks for your patience. Mastermind

$2,000 for 30 hp? Like Ditka says-"Come on Man!"

I saw an article in High Performance Pontiac magazine about how they intalled a hydraulic roller cam in a 462 powered '70's T/A. It was admittedly a "Built" motor to begin with-429 hp and 544 lbs of torque on the dyno. They were happy that with no other changes, it picked up 30 horsepower. However-unlike later model small and big block Chevys, small-block Fords, and Mopar "Magnum" engines, Pontiacs never had roller cams as original equipment. Thus, all the parts for the conversion cost a total of $1,945!!!  Are you kidding me? 2 grand for a cam change?!  My brother and I built the 400 in his GTO for 2 grand from a junkyard core out of a 74 Gran Prix. On the dyno it cranked out 381 hp and 422 lbs of torque.  Another guy in his Goat club built a 400 that dyno'd 440 hp and 460 lbs of torque for $4,400, and that included $1,700 for aluminum Edelbrock heads!!  What are the editors thinking?  They should recommend parts that offer the most bang for the buck. A Performer Rpm intake manifold costs $219 through Summit Racing and makes 40 more hp than a stock intake. A set of Hedman Headers for a '70's Firebird costs $286 through Summit and ads 50 hp over stock iron exhaust manifolds. And they think 2K for 30 hp is worthwhile?  For 2 grand they could buy a balanced rotating assembly to stroke a 400 to 461 inches which will make a lot more than 30 ponies. As will the previously mentioned patterned after Ram Air IV Edelbrock Heads. I'd have stuck with a regular $300 hydraulic cam and spent the other $1700 on a high stall converter, some stiffer gears, a set of headers and new exhausts-( for some reason this car was built with stock iron exhaust manifolds) and maybe traction bars and drag radials to put all that power to the ground. I think these magazine writers say good things about certain parts because they stay in business off their advertising dollars. But they don't realize how stupid they sound sometimes. In another issue they said how great a fuel injection system was that cost 3 grand, and only made 8 hp and 17 lbs of torque more than the $600 Edelbrock Performer intake and carb combo it replaced. So do some research before you lay out your hard earned cash for some "State of the Art" thing that offers a minimal gain for a lot of dollar outlay. Mastermind      

Now that you know what you want, what do you Really need?

Like I said in the last post-a lot of people spend a lot of money buying or building a musclecar, and then rarely drive it, or sell it for a lot less than they invested, because their disappointed in the cars performance. A lot of the time, it's because they listened to friends, or fell into the bigger-is-better abyss. Here's how to avoid this problem. # 1. Let's say the musclecar you've decided on is going to be a driver or a weekend cruiser. If you live in a big city with a lot of traffic, an automatic transmission is a lot easier to drive in stop and go traffic than a stick with a heavy-duty clutch. If you live in Florida or Las Vegas or Arizona where it's hot the year round, it might behoove you to buy a car with functional, or at least repairable air conditioning. If you live in a rural area 50 miles from the nearest town, 4.11:1 gears are not going to be very pleasant on your commute. A car with 3.23 gears would get much better gas mileage and be a lot less buzzy at highway speed. See what I'm saying? # 2. Don't fall into the bigger is better trap. If you want a Corvette convertible to take your wife on cruises through the Napa Valley wine country or up to Lake Tahoe, does it have to be a solid-lifter 427 model with a "Rock Crusher" 4-speed and 4.56 gears? Wouldn't a hydraulic-cammed 350, automatic model with 3.36:1 gears be a lot more pleasant? # 3. When "Restifying" don't go crazy with expensive upgrades that have no real impact on the car's value or performance. For example-do you really need a Wildwood or Brembo aftermarket 4-wheel disc brake setup? Unless your hot-lapping at Laguna Seca, be it GM, Ford or Mopar, the stock braking system on you musclecar-especially if it has front discs-is more than adequate to safely stop the car in daily driving or at the weekend trip to the drags. When have you ever seen someone break a GM 12 bolt or Chrysler 8 3/4 rear end? Unless you have a 700hp engine with a 5 grand converter and a trans-brake, and wrinklewall slicks bolted to the rims, you aren't going to break one either. So why does your project need a custom-built Currie 9 inch Ford setup? Because that extra 1/8 to 1/4 inch on the ring gear makes such a huge difference? # 4. Be honest about your mechanical and tuning abilities. Not everyone can or wants to do bodywork. If you can't, then maybe spend a little more money for a car with a better body. If you can do basic maintenance, but aren't really a mechanic, then don't try to rebuild a numbers-matching engine. It might behoove you to pay a professional to do it, or buy a crate engine from GMPP, Ford SVO, or Mopar performance. If your not a mechanic and don't have access to an infrared exhaust analyzer, a scope, or carb synchronizers, then don't try to "Upgrade" to a multi-carb setup or aftermarket fuel injection. If a super stock Firebird can run 11.30s with a quadrajet, you don't really "need" a tri-power or dual quad setup, or fuel injection for anything other than the "Wow" factor when you open the hood. A simple 4bbl carb and intake might be best for you. Hope this helps everyone out Mastermind      

Plan your project around what you REALLY want, and you'll be a lot happier!

The title to this post seems so simple, yet I talk to many people who spend big dollars restoring a car, and then don't drive it much because they don't like how the car performs. Here's some tips to avoid this problem. # 1. Be realistic about what you want. Is it going to be a show car, a driver, a weekend cruiser, or a race car?  You may think you want a badass replica of Mark Donohue's Camaro or Richard Petty's Charger, but clambering around an 8-point roll cage every time you get in or out of the car gets old real quick.  If your going to drive the car at all, sometimes a later model is a better choice. Here's an example-I had a chance to buy a 1957 Pontiac ( No, it wasn't a fuelie Bonneville convertible ) or a 1965 Pontiac Catalina for about the same price. Since I wanted it as a driver / weekend cruiser I bought the 65 model. Here's why- the '57 had no power steering, no power brakes, kingpin front suspension, and drove like a dump truck. Further, it had a 347 inch Pontiac engine, and the horrible "Slim-jim" hydro-matic that won't shift over about half-throttle.  The '65 model had power steering, power brakes, control-arm front suspension, a 389 V8 and a Turbo 400 trans. The difference was night and day-the '65 drove like a modern car. If I wanted more power-there's a ton of speed equipment for 65 and later Pontiac V8s-(Practically nothing for the old 347 ) a Turbo 400 is an awesome tranny that will stand up to anything, and I could adapt later-model disc brakes or sway bars to the suspension without major work. Not so the '57.  See the difference?  # 2. Be realistic about how much power you really need or want. We all say we want 500 or 600 hp, but do we really?  That much power requires a lot of cubic inches, compression and camshaft. And that requires a lot of converter and stiff gears and a drag-style suspension to put all that power to the ground. Yes, in a magazine that 12:1, solid-roller cammed 600+ hp GMPP Rat Motor or Mopar Performance Crate Hemi looks and sounds great, and you can dream of your 10 second time slips. However-3,500 rpm converters, 4.56 gears, the motor buzzing at 4,000 rpm on the freeway, and two cans of octane booster per tankful while getting 5-8 mpg does not make for a pleasant driving experience. If your going to drive the car at all, compression ratios around 9.5:1 and a cam that idles at 800 rpm make a lot more sense. The GMPP "Turn-Key" ZZ4 350 in my 442 is rated at 355 hp and 405 lbs ft of torque. It idles at 750 rpm, pulls hard to 6,000 rpm, never gets over 180 degrees even in rush-hour traffic with the A/C on in 90 degree weather, gets 16 mpg, and if it didn't have headers on it, you wouldn't be able to hear it run. It runs high 13s in the 1/4 on street tires, through the mufflers on 89 octane gas. I don't have to take crap from little boys in their rice-rockets, or middle-aged guys in Hemi Chargers or turbo BMWs. I absolutely love driving the car, because it's so easy to drive. Yes, there's faster cars out there new and old, but not many, and none are as head-turning and unique as my Hurst / Olds. I had a radical 455 in it once ( I still have it if I sell the car to someone who wants Original Olds power ) but it's way nicer to drive now. For 99% of us a 400 hp engine will be more than enough, and easy to build and live with.  # 3. Be realistic about your cars capabilities, even with modifications. For example if you want to go autocrossing or slaloming, a '70s Firebird would be a much better choice than a '60s Gran Prix. If I have to explain this one-then you have no business on this site, or around a car at all. If you want a drag racer a Nova is a better choice than an Impala. # 4.  Don't go crazy on buying an Ultra-premium model. This is most people's major goof. Now you've got a Boss 429 Mustang or a Hemi Cuda. That sits in the garage 11 months out of the year and isn't driven 100 miles a year because "It's too valuable" and the owner is terrified of wrecking it or blowing the motor. He'd be much happier with a 351W Mach 1 Mustang or 383 Challenger that he could take to work or to the store once in a while, and even run through the gears and ( Gasp!! ) powershift and spin the wheels on it once in a while!  # 5. A vintage car is a toy, not an investment. Buy the goddamn 350 / automatic Malibu convertible because you want a Chevelle convertible. Don't pass that up and pay more for a 4-speed SS396 hardtop "Because it'll be worth more if I sell it."  Huh?  Your buying something solely on what it's worth if or when you get rid of it?  Did you marry your wife because you thought she'd give you a better divorce than the other women you dated?  Hello?!!!   If you follow these rules, you'll be a lot happier with your car. Mastermind                 

Want a cool, powerful "driver"? Consider a "Personal Luxury" model!!

A lot of "Personal Luxury" models are great performers and make fun, reliable drivers. And since their not super-valuable-i.e. like a Hemi Cuda or Shelby Mustang, people don't feel bad about driving or modifying them. Here's some of my favorites. # 1 1966-69 Buick Riviera. These cars have the swoopy, fastback, hidden headlisght styling of the revolutionary Olds Toronado, but are still rear-wheel drive. I personally think these are one of the best-looking cars of all time. And with 430 cubes under the hood, they move pretty good too. However I see one Jet-Black with 17 inch Torq-Thrusts, and a snarling, 620 hp 572 inch Rat under that long hood! All you'd need is some Chevy motor mounts and a Chevy bolt-pattern Turbo 400. Like I said, It's not like your cutting a up Hemi Cuda. # 2. 1967-71 Ford Thunderbird. Cool styling, lots of luxury, and 390, 428 or 429 cubes under the hood. 1972 and later models are based on the heavier and uglier Lincoln MKIV platform, and the low-compression 460 engines don't have near the power of the earlier ones. # 3 1969-76 Pontiac Gran Prix. These cars are probably the best bang-for-the-buck steal out there. 400 4bbl power standard all years, and a fair number of 70-76 "SJ" models had 455s! Cadillac-like luxury and GTO like performance. Further, any aftermarket suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Chevelle or Monte Carlo also fit these cars. Dynamite. # 4 1971-73 Buick Riviera. The famous "Boat Tail" design. 455 cubes standard. Movie tough guy Jason Statham drove one in "Crank" and Bruce Willis had one in "The Last Boy Scout". 'Nuff said. # 5 1969-72 Plymouth Sport Fury. Peter Graves drove one in "Mission: Impossible." Most had 383 or 440 cubes under the hood. Or build the one that Mother Mopar never did and swap in a crate Hemi. Mastermind  

Sometimes the last of the line can be a steal!

It's funny, but the first of anything is usually pricey and sought after-'55 T-Birds, '64 GTOs, 68 Chargers, etc. In contrast, the last of some models get treated like Rodney Dangerfield-( "No Respect" ). However, these later models can sometimes be screamin' deals, while people fight over the earlier models. Here's some good examples. # 1 1980-81 Z/28 Camaro and Pontiac Firebird Trans-Am / Formula. These are the last of the 2nd generation F-bodies before the big redesign of 1982. Pontiac enthusiasts snub these models because after the 400 cube Pontiac and Olds engines were dropped at the end of 1979, the only engines available were normally aspirated and Turbocharged 301 Pontiacs and 305 Chevy engines. The Ill-fated 301 Turbos were underpowered and had reliability problems, and the 305 Chevys were just underpowered. On the upside they are usually loaded with cool options like WS6 suspension, 4-wheel disc brakes, standard Posi rear ends, T-Tops, A/C power windows, etc. Further, a 400 or 455 will drop right in place of the 301 engines. If you have or want to buy one of the 305 Chevy versions, a 350 or 383 / 400 small-block will bolt right in. 4-speed models had a T10 with a 3.44 1st gear and a 2.28 2nd. Combined with a 3.08 rear end this gives great off-the-line acceleration and easy highway cruising. On the Z/28 front, the 350 was still available in 1980 with the above-mentioned T10 4-speed or a Turbo 350. Automatics had 3.42 axle ratios and 4-speeds had 3.08s. Chevrolet also brought back "Cowl-Induction" this year-a vacuum-operated hood scoop that opened under acceleration. In 1981, for some reason, the 350 was only available with an automatic. If you wanted a 4-speed, you were limited to a 305. Some Canadian-built 1981 Z/28s did have the 350/4-speed combo. However, like the Firebirds, swapping in a larger engine is a no-brainer, bolt-in. # 2 1973 Ford Mustang / Mercury Cougar. In 1974 the awful Pinto-based Mustang II debuted, and the Cougar became based on the Lincoln MKIV / Thunderbird platform. Thus 1973 was the last hurrah for performance Mustangs and Cougars until the mid-'80s. Most have the venerable 351 "Cleveland" engine under the hood. 2bbl versions were rated at 177 hp and 4bbl versions were rated at 266 hp. Transmissions were either a Top-Loader 4-speed or a C6 or FMX automatic. 4-speed versions are rare, and usually pricier than automatics. Rear ends are the bulletproof 9 inch Ford, and axle ratios are 3.00:1, 3.25:1, or 3.50:1. For hot-rodders, the 2bbl heads are actually better for street use. Edelbrock makes 4bbl manifolds that are compatible with 2V  heads. If you want to go real fast, the engine bay will swallow a 429 / 460- ( The 429 was a rare option on some 1971 models, and the 73s are the same body ). And the bellhousing bolt-pattern of the "Cleveland" engines is the same as the 429/460 series. # 3. 1973-76 GM "A" body. The 1968-72 models are overwhelmingly the most popular of the line. However, performance didn't completely die with the major restyling of 1973. You could get a 455 in an Olds Cutlass or Buick Regal until 1975. 1973 was the GTO's last year on the LeMans platform, and the 400 and 455 engines were still available. In 1974 the Goat went to the Ventura / Nova platform and was dropped altogether for 75. However, you could still get a 400 or 455 in a LeMans Sport or Gran Prix until 1976. On the Chevy front, the "SS" package was dropped after 1973, and replaced with the Laguna S3 package. However you could get a 454 big-block in a Chevelle, El Camino, or Monte Carlo until 1975. These cars dominated NASCAR in the late '70's, and are getting popular again. ( Popular Hot Roddings "Project Talledega" 75 Laguna with NASCAR-style graphics and a 408 inch solid-roller small-block ). # 4 1973-74 Plymouth Road Runner. A lot of people snub these cars because they like the styling of the 71-72 models better. Even Chargers of this vintage get some respect-probably because Richard Petty won a ton of races in one until it was outlawed in 1979. Although these Road Runners are virtually forgotten even by Mopar fans, the 400 and 440 engines were still available, with a 4-speed or a 727 Torqueflite, and the 360 versions can be bought really cheap, and still made to run strong.  These cars might not have the curb appeal of their earlier brothers, but from a "Bang for the Buck" perspective, their a screamin' deal. Mastermind              

Save the manuals.....and Build more of them!

Because so many modern cars have slushboxes, ( even sports cars ) Car and Driver magazine has started a campaign called "Save the Manuals" encouraging people to buy manual transmission cars. I wrote in an earlier post how sad it was that many musclecars that were originally manuals had been converted to automatics. Anyone whose driven a musclecar with a big V8 and a stick can tell you how much fun they are to drive. In addition to the "mainstream" musclecars-i.e.-GTO,Road Runner,SS Chevelle, etc, I have even seen 400 or 428 / 4-speed Pontiac Gran Prixs, and a few 4-speed Monte Carlos. I've seen a few 4-speed Mercury Cougars as well. If you can't find one to buy, it might be worth it to convert an automatic car. Year one, Ames performance, Mustangs unlimited, Branda Shelby, Mancini racing, and others I may have missed offer the pedal assemblys, linkage and small parts to convert most GM, Ford, or Mopar applications to stick-shift. Think about it-there are way more automatic Mustangs, Cougars, Camaros, Chevelles, Challengers, etc than there are manuals. Thus the manuals usually bring a much higher price. You could convert a nice automatic car, for way less than you could buy a same-model stick in the same condition. In addition to the aftermarket sources, if your on a really tight budget, junkyards can still be a good source if you know what to look for. As I said earlier any parts that fit a Chevelle will fit a Monte Carlo or Gran Prix, LeMans or Olds Cutlass from 1964-77. Six-cylinder Novas and Camaros and Firebirds have all the parts that would work on V8 models. Six-cylinder Dusters and Darts have a lot of parts that could help you convert a Challenger or Cuda or Satellite. Ditto for six-cylinder Mustangs. Their stuff would work on Mustangs and Cougars from 1965-73. Most people think all 78-88 GM "G" bodies are automatics. Not true. From 1978-81 3 and 4-speed manuals were offered in Malibus and El Caminos. This clutch linkage, pedal setup, and even V6 bellhousing would work on any "G" body-( Cutlass, Monte Carlo, Regal etc) that you wanted to run a Chevy engine in. Or you could adapt 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird stuff pretty easy. 1978-81 Pontiac LeMans, Grand Am, and Gran Prix models were available with a 301 Pontiac V8 and a 4-speed. You could swap in a 400 real easy, or just get the parts to use in another "G" body car that you wanted 400 or 455 Pontiac power in. The 301 bellhousing will bolt up to 350/400/455 Pontiac engines, as well Buick and Olds motors. How about a lightweight, '80's Cutlass with a 350/403/455 Olds motor and a 4-speed?  Or a Regal ( Grand National Bodystyle ) with a 455 Buick and a 4-speed? How about using Fox-bodied Mustang parts to make a 302 or 351W, 5-speed '80's Thunderbird, Cougar or Lincoln MKVII LSC?  Want a stick-shift full-size GM or Ford car? A lot of Chevy/GMC and Ford van / truck parts will work. Buy a Hollander interchange manual. This is the "Bible" that junkyards use. It will tell you unequivocally what parts of one car that will fit on another. Let's join Car and Driver and save the manuals!!  Mastermind 

Another hidden Bargain you may not think of........

Most of us don't think of the words "Corvette" and "Bargain" in the same sentence, but they are out there. I'm talking about the '70's models. I saw a running, and definitely restorable numbers-matching 454, 4-speed 1972 model in Hemmings for $5900 or best offer! I saw a pretty decent L48 small-block/autmatic 1977 model for $3995! I even saw a 1978 Indy Pace car version for $8200! Even the desirable L82 / 4-speed models in good condition can be found for under 10 grand. Granted, they don't have the fire-breathing performance of the '60's models, but even stock they run pretty good, and have a ton of potential. Automatics usually have 3.36:1 or 3.55:1 axle-ratios, and 4-speeds come with 3.36:1 or 3.70:1 gears, which is just about a perfect compromise between jackrabbit starts and high-speed cruising. There is more speed equipment available for the small-block Chevy than anything else on the planet, or you can swap in a Big-block very easily. Another bonus is fiberglass doesn't rust, so unless there's major body damage, you don't have much work other than sanding and painting. And their body-on-frame, not unit body, so they'll be remarkably rattle-free for a 30+ year old car. If you search the internet, local want ads, and publications like Hemmings, you can find a diamond for under 10-12 grand. People ask that much for cobbled-up, base-model Malibus and Camaros. For my money, I'd rather have a 'Vette.  Mastermind      

I may be Blaspheming..... But Carroll Shelby did it first!

In 1962 Racer Carroll Shelby took an AC Ace-a cute, lightweight British sports car and stuffed a 260 inch Ford V8 in it, and called it the Cobra. 1963 and later models had 289s. They were super-fast and great handling, and won a ton of races, as well as being legends on the street. In 1965 Shelby and co. built a more muscular body and stuffed a 427 Ford in. The rest is history. You may or may not remember, but a lot of guys-( My own father included ) stuffed 327 Chevys into Austin-Healys. These were dubbed "The Poor Man's Cobra." by the buff magazines of the day. These kinds of swaps can make great low-budget, lightning fast hot rods even today. Here's a list of my favorites-some that I've even owned or helped build. # 1 1970-78 Datsun Z / Chevy V8 conversion. "Z motorsports" and other companies sell the motor mounts and crossmember to do the swap. This makes a dynamite hot rod. The small-block Chevy isn't much heavier than the big Nissan straight 6, so handling isn't adversely affected, but even with a bone stock 350 you've doubled the horsepower. The independent rear suspension gets surprisingly good traction, and the rear ends don't break even under the abuse of drag-racing. I know a guy that put a built 383 stroker in a 280Z and got banned from his local track after one run. The rules say anything that runs quicker than 11.50 in the 1/4 has to have a driveshaft safety loop and an 8-point roll cage. He had neither, and ran something like 11.38 on his first pass! My dad and I built a V8 240Z for a customer a few years ago, and the guy loved it. You can do the same to the 1979-83 280ZX models, but the cars are a larger and heavier, and thus not as blisteringly fast. # 2. Jaguar XKE / XJ6 / XJS with either small-block Chevy or small-block Ford. Chevy and Ford guys have been arguing for decades over which swap is easier and better performing, but like Al Pacino said in "Donnie Brasco" about whether a Lincoln or a Cadillac was better- "Forget about it."  Their both easy to do, and both of the American V8s are lighter and have about twice the power of the Jag engines their replacing. My dad has a Chevy-powered XJ6 to this day, and loves blowing the doors off arrogant and unsuspecting BMW and Mercedes owners. I think Painless wiring even makes a kit to hook up Tuned Port Injected Chevys and Mass-Airflow controlled Fords if you want to be modern and not have a carburator! # 3. 1970-76 Porsche 914 / Chevy V8 conversion. The ZF transaxles are amazingly tough and can stand up to V8s, and these cars are blisteringly fast even with mild engines. I know a guy that has a 914 with an old 283 with a 2bbl, that just hauls ass! If I remember correctly a V8 Monza radiator can fit under the front trunk without too much work and an electric fan setup is simple. The only hard work is running cooling lines from the radiator to the back of the car where the engine is.  Not "Mainstream Muscle" but might be a lot of fun for low bucks!  Mastermind                  

A forgotten bodystyle that may be cool.....

As I've discussed before NASCAR and Trans-Am racing had a great influence on the musclecar era.  If your a Ford fan and can't find the Mustang, Torino, or Cougar of your dreams this may be the ticket. I'm talking about the Mercury Montego that was built from 1969-76.  As for the NASCAR influence, who could forget the Wood Brothers Mercurys that won numerous races in the '70's with Bobby Allison and Cale Yarborough driving. ( Before Yarborough switched to Chevrolet ). The Montego was basically a Torino clone. 1969 models have 302, 351W or 390 power. 1970-71 models included the "Cyclone" and "Cyclone Spoiler" that had hidden headlights and swoopy styling. Power choices included the 302, 351C, and even 428 and 429 big blocks. Obviously the 428 and 429 versions are rare and pricey, but 351C versions are quite reasonable. There is a ton of speed equipment for the "Cleveland" engines, and the bellhousing pattern is the same as the 429/460 so that makes swapping a little easier. 1972 came with a major redesign-( along with the Torino ). Instead of unit-body construction they were now body-on-frame. They rode and handled better, and the new body, especially the fastback version was great-looking. Most 72-74 models had 351C motivation, although the 429 was optional. 1975-76 models had 351/400M power, and the 460 was optional, but pretty emasculated by then because of emission controls, but still have potential. In 1977 the model was dropped. However they are fairly plentiful and are usually less expensive than a same-year Torino or Cougar. I can see one with raidiused and flared fenders, fat tires, painted like the Wood Brothers famous #21 -( ala-Popular Hot Roddings "Project Talledega" 75 Laguna ) with a high-revving 351C or a stompin' 460.  Or something less gaudy-but you get the drift. Mastermind    

A Clone of a "Niche" car may be just the ticket!

Obviously people have been turning LeMans models into GTO clones, Base model Malibus into SS396 and SS454 clones, and dropping 440s into 318 Challengers and Barracudas for years. However a low-budget way to have a cool, unique car may be to clone a rare car that's based on something other than the usual Chevelle, Camaro,Mustang,Road Runner etc. Here's some examples. # 1. 1961-64 "Super Duty" Pontiac clone. Catalinas,Bonnevilles,and Venturas of this vintage all have 389 V8s as standard equipment. Edelbrock makes a dual-quad intake that is an exact replica of the original SD dual-quad intake, and their are cams, aftermarket heads, etc available to make monster horsepower. Ames performance, Year one, and other companies offer 4-speed conversion kits, or you could go with a TH400 conversion fairly painlessly. Butler Performance and Kauffman offer stroker cranks that can turn the 389 into a 421 or you could use a later model 400 and stroke it to 455. # 2. 1965-69 Chevy Biscayne /Impala. The stripped-down 427 Biscaynes and Impalas were terrors on the street and strip. Original versions are quite rare, and thus pricey. However,it would be pretty easy to buy a small-block version and swap in a 454 or 502 Rat. Same as the Pontiacs-tranny choices could include a 4-or 5-speed stick, or a TH400 or 700R4 automatic with minimal hassle. # 3. 1964-66 Plymouth Savoy/Dodge 330 Hemi "Ramcharger" clone. At about 15 grand, a Mopar Performance 426 crate Hemi isn't cheap, but even if you had 10 or 15 grand in the car otherwise, you'd still be way ahead. No way are you going to find an original Hemi version of these cars for 25-30K! A Torqueflite with pushbutton control in a race car? They did it in the early '60's and it would still be cool today. # 4 1968-69 Hemi Dart Clone. Same thing-you could build this for about 1/5 of what a "real" Hemi Dart would go for. #5. 1963-66 Ford Fairlane "Thunderbolt" clone. I wouldn't try to find a 427 Ford engine ( good luck at any price ) but you can find a 390 pretty easily. Their the same "FE" engine family and look the same externally. Edelbrock offers Hi-Performance aluminum heads and intakes, and their are cams, headers etc. available. Might be a way to go if you want something unique and out of the ordinary. Mastermind  

Still more Chevrolet alternatives

If your having trouble finding a good price on the Chevy of your dreams, you might consider a Pontiac. GTO's bring every bit the King's Ransom that big-block SS Chevelles do. However, in the rest of the line, the Pontiacs are better deals.  Here's the proof.  # 1 1967-79 Firebird.  1st or 2nd generation, a Firebird is a much better deal than a Camaro, for one reason. Big-blocks were only optional in the Camaro from 1967-72 and were built in limited numbers. By contrast, you could get a 400 in a Firebird Formula or Trans-Am until 1979, and the 455 was available until 1976. At the last Hot August Nights auction I attended a nice 396 powered 1969 Camaro sold for $15,000.  At the same auction a 1968 400 Firebird went for $7200.  A 400 69 Model went for $8500. And they were just as nice as the Chevy. A rough, but running 1974 Formula 400 sold for $2,200!  At the same auction, an engineless, transmissionless, 1972 Camaro sold for $4,500!. If you can't find a good deal on a 400 Firebird, you aren't looking past the end of your nose.  # 2 1969-76 Gran Prix.  The Gran Prix is to the Monte Carlo what the Firebird is to the Camaro- The better buy of the two. Again, Big-block Monte Carlos from 1970-75 are rare and usually pricey. Gran Prix's had the mighty 400 Pontiac standard all years, and a fair number of 70-76 models had 455s!!  The GPs usually had more luxurious interiors and and any suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Chevelle / Monte Carlo fit these cars.  # 3 1960-1976 Full-size. Same deal-depending on the year, 396, 409, 427 or 454 Impalas and Caprices are rare birds, and priced accordingly. 95% of full-size Chevys have 283, 327 or 350 small-block motivation. Bonnevilles and Catalinas however have 389 or 400 cubes standard all years, with ( depending on the year ) 421, 428, or 455 cubes optional! # 4 1968-77 LeMans. While 99% of Non-SS Chevelles ( except for a few "Heavy Chevys" and Lagunas ) have small-blocks under the hood, quite a few LeMans "Sport" or "Luxury LeMans"  models had 400 cubes under the hood stock, and a few had 455s. You didn't have to get a GTO to get the big power.  I have nothing against Chevys, but if your bargain-hunting, a Pontiac cousin may be the way to go.  Mastermind           

Another Chevelle alternative

Yesterday's post about El Caminos got some positive feedback, so I thought I'd add another alternative for Chevy fans who can't find or afford the Chevelle of their dreams. Consider a Monte Carlo. After the phenomenal success of the down-sized ( from full-size to "A" body ) 1969 Pontiac Gran Prix, Chevrolet decided to get in on the act. Based on the Chevelle chassis, the Monte Carlo was introduced in 1970 to compete directly with the GP in the "Personal luxury car" niche. The body was great looking, and Cale Yarborough won a ton of NASCAR races in them. Power choices ranged from a 250 inch six-cylinder to a 454 V8. Transmissions ranged from 3 and 4-speed manuals to ( depending on engine size ) a Turbo 350 or Turbo 400 automatic. Very few six-cylinder versions exist, as most have 350 small-blocks with either a 2 or 4bbl carb under the hood. The 402 and 454 were optional as well. There are rumors that a few Montes got LS6 454s, but I have never seen one. All the Rat-motored Montes I ever saw were 402s or LS5 454s. As for transmissions, 95% are automatics, although I have seen a few 350 / 4-speed models, and at least one 454 / 4-speed version. The car was an instant hit, and the body and powertrain options ( except for lowered compression in 1971 ) remained the same through 1972. If you want a driver a Monte Carlo is a great buy. Most 1972 and earlier Chevelles and Malibus don't have factory A/C or power windows or tilt wheel or cruise control, and a lot of non-SS versions have 4-wheel drum brakes. All Monte Carlos have front disc brakes standard, and I don't ever recall seeing one without Air Conditioning. In 1973 all the GM "A" bodies were redesigned, and the Monte Carlo was about the best-looking of all of them. This bodystyle was the Scourge of Nascar in the late '70's. The 402 was dropped after 1972, but the 454 was still available until 1975. Most 1973-77 Montes have 350 motivation which certainly isn't a bad thing. Or a Rat will swap in easily. In 1978 the GM mid-sizes were downsized, including the Monte Carlo. The standard engine was now a V6, but the 305 and 350 V8s were optional until 1980. 1981 and later models had the 305 as the largest engine. In 1984 The Monte Carlo SS package was introduced which included a special "Aero" nose and bodywork and special graphics and wheels, and a four speed automatic, and 3.42 or 3.73 rear end gears. This package was immensely popular and lasted until the "G" bodies went front drive in 1988. The good thing about Montes of any year is that they usually had more options and are better taken care of than their Chevelle / Malibu brothers, are priced less, and any aftermarket suspesnsion or brake upgrades that fit the Chevelles will fit a Monte Carlo. I had a 72 Monte Carlo in college, and I loved it. You might too, and forget all about buying a Chevelle. Mastermind    

Can't find the Chevelle of your dreams? Consider an El Camino!

GTO or Road Runner fans may dissent, but the SS Chevelle is arguably the most sought-after musclecar, especially the big-block versions. However, because of this, they can be pricey, even for less-than-stellar examples or even non-SS small-block base-models. A good alternative is an El Camino. The hybrid car / truck El Camino was actually introduced in 1959 on the Impala chassis. It was discontinued after 1960, but returned in 1964 on the mid-size "A" body Chevelle / Malibu chassis. The El Camino proved to be immensely popular, lasting until 1987. It's hard to say how many were built because their sales are generally lumped in with Chevelle sales figures. 1964-65 models were limited to six-cylinder or 283 or 327 small-block power. In 1966 the 396 big-block became available on the SS model. In 1968 the bodystyle was updated and except for the grille and headlight treatments remained unchanged through 1972. Like their Chevelle brothers the 68-72 models are the most popular. However, they are generally less-expensive. A further bonus, I guess because the engineers figured people would be hauling stuff in them, a lot of Elkys, including base-models have front disc brakes, power steering and factory A/C, stuff you don't usually find on strippy Chevelles of the same vintage. In 1970 the 454 became an option. Again, I can't quantify sales numbers, but I have seen a few genuine LS6 El Caminos. The LS5 454 and the L34 396 was still available on SS models, and base versions got sixes, or 307 or 350 V8s. The 327 was dropped after 1969. Compression ratios were lowered for 1971, but the 402 ( 396 ) and 454s were still optional. In 1971 Pontiac / GMC dealers started selling re-badged El Caminos that were called "GMC Sprint". They aren't really collectible, as their just a garden-variety Elky with GMC badges on the body. The big-blocks were optional. In 1973 all the GM "A" bodies were re-styled, including the El Camino. Performance declined under ever-tightening federal emission controls, but the 454 was optional until 1975. The 396 / 402 was dropped after 1972. After 1975 the 350 small-block was the largest engine available. Oddly, the "SS" package was dropped on Chevelles after 1973, but continued on the El Camino. This bodystyle continued until 1977. In 1978 all the GM mid-sizes were downsized and were now called "G" bodies instead of "A" bodies, the El Camino included. GMC versions were now called "Caballeros" instead of "Sprints". the 350 was available until 1980. Because they weiged about 500 lbs less than the outgoing "A" bodies, they were decent performers, although the "SS" option was now basically a trim package. From 1981 on, the 305 was the largest engine available. However, in 1984 the Monte Carlo SS was introduced and became immensely popular. In 1985 Chevy put the "Aero" Monte Carlo SS front end on the El Camino, which gave sales a shot in the arm. Things remained basically unchanged through 1987. When the middies-i.e. Malibu, Cutlass, etc, went front drive in 1988, that was the end of an era. However, they make great drivers, and because their lighter than a same-year Chevelle, even small-block models can be great performers, and they are generally less expensive to buy. Might be a good alternative for Chevelle fans on a limited budget. Mastermind       

Sometimes the "Real Deal" is the better deal!

I see musclecars going for insane prices in magazines and on the speed channel auctions, and as I've discussed people are even paying insane money for base models-i.e. Non-SS 350 Malibus etc. However, sometimes in the craziness people overlook bargains on the genuine article.  Now I'm not going to tell you stories about $500 57 Corvettes or $1000 Hemi Cudas, the cars I'm talking about go for sometimes big money, but less than you'd think, and sometimes less than base models. Here's some examples.             #1. 1969-70 Shelby GT350 Mustang. I know you'd never think you'd see a Shelby on a "Bargain" list but here it is. These have the 290 hp 351W for power and either a Top-Loader 4-speed or an FMX 3-speed automatic for trannys. I personally think these are the best-looking of all the Shelby Mustangs. I have seen rough but running examples for around 15-20K and I have seen pristine, low-mileage examples for around 40-45K. In between I've seen "Driver Quality" versions-i.e.-not a concours show car, but still in great condition for around 30-35K. That's not cheap, but try to touch any other Shelby for under 100 grand. Boss 302s or even 428 Mach 1s bring over 50 grand if their in top condition. Ironically I see earlier 289 fastbacks, or later 351CJ versions sometimes bringing more than this model. Weird, but good if you want one.   # 2. 1970-73 Pontiac Trans-Am.  "Disco Era" or "Smokey and the Bandit" T/A's are making a comeback, and their values are rising to insane levels. Don't get me wrong, their great cars with a lot of potential, but I've seen 1979 models sell for $24,000 at auction with a 185 hp,403 Olds engine, aTH350 and 2.56:1 gears.  At the same auction a 335hp RAIII, TH400 1970 model sold for $21,000.  I've seen 1978 400, 4-speed WS6 models go for $30,000. I've also seen 1971 455HO models go for $32,000.  I mean which you rather have?  Again, that's not cheap but I'd damn sure rather have a Ram Air III, 455HO or 455SD version than an 8:1 180-220 hp smogger 400 or 403 Olds model.  # 3. 1966-67 426 Hemi Belvedere or Coronet. Never thought you'd see a Hemi car on a Bargain list. It depends on what you consider a bargain. I have seen, documented, low-mileage examples of these cars in Hemmings for $50-60K.  That's definitely not chump change, but when you consider that any "Real" Hemi Road Runner, Charger or Challenger in top condition brings 250K on up, and "Clones" with Mopar Performance crate Hemis are bringing 100K, that's a screaming bargain. # 4. 1968-72 Olds 442 . I know that I'm comparing this one to "Sister" cars, but it applies. I have seen 1970 W30 455, 4-speed models in excellent condition sell for 35K. Try to find an LS6 Chevelle or RAIV GTO for under 50K. If you can live with a base-engine 400 or 455 442, the gap really widens. I've seen nice 442s of this vintage selling all day long for 12-20K.  Try to find a same-year SS396 or GTO in the same condition for under 25 large. # 5. 1973-74 Z/28 Camaro. Like their Pontiac Trans-Am cousins, the "Disco" models are making a comeback. I've seen 1979 models going for $20,000 plus at auctions. The 73-74 models go for about the same. However, the 1977-80 models are powered by the "generic" 180hp L48 pickup/Impala/station wagon 350 that was used in every Chevy built from 1971 until 1986, and have catylitic converters and smog gear out the wazoo. The 73-74 models had the L82 Corvette engine which had 4-bolt mains, a steel crank, forged pistons, "2.02" heads, and the "350hp" L46 cam, with catalyst-free dual exhausts, backed up by a 4-speed or an automatic with 3.42 or 3.73 gears. And they were much better looking and had cleaner styling than the later ones, that were trying to have more scoops and spoilers and be gaudier than the Trans-Am. Which one would you rather have?  Sometimes the term "Stepping over dollars to pick up dimes" really is true. Mastermind                    

Like Coach Ditka says-"Come on Man!"

I'm sorry to be so negative regarding Hot August Nights this year, but I can't help it. My local newspaper wins the ultimate stupidity award today. All week they've been featuring a "Car of the Day" that some reporter saw at various HAN events. I already gave my opinion of the alleged $100,000 67 Mustang they featured a few days ago. Todays "Car of the Day" was a 1960 VW Bus / Pickup truck!!  WTF??!!!  How did they determine that?  Ever since 1986 when Hot August Nights was founded it's been lauded as a celebration of American hot rods and rock and roll. The key word being "American".  So let's walk past tons Chevy, Ford and Mopar classics, and make a German econobox the "Car of the day". And again, someone said the cost to build the truck would 80 grand!!  For a 50 year old Volkswagen?!! Like Ditka says on ESPN- "Come on, Man!!"  Mastermind     

Where's the diversity this year?

I hate to sound like a liberal affirmative action advocate-if that's possible regarding cars, but this years Hot August Nights festival has had no diversity. In years past you saw everything from 23 T-buckets, to '70s T/A's. This year, the cars all seem to be cookie-cutter of the same models. Let me explain. The casinos hosting the events usually line the cars up according to brand-i.e.- GM, Ford , Chrysler. In the GM sections all I've seen is Camaros and Chevelles. I've seen very few '55-57 Chevys, a few Novas, and a couple of '70's Vettes. No 60's Impala SS's, No Nomads, no '50's or '60's Vettes. The only Oldsmobile I've seen besides my own 442 was a 1967 Delta 88 convertible. The only Pontiacs I've seen are a few 1967-69 Firebirds and a couple of 65-66 GTOs. No 421 Catalinas or 2+2s, no Gran Prixs, No Judges, and maybe one or two '70's T/A's.  The Ford sections are all Mustangs. No 427 Galaxies or Thunderbolt Fairlanes, No T-Birds, no 429 Torinos, and just a few 67-70 Cougars.  Ditto for the Chrysler sections. All 68-70 Road Runners and Chargers. No Super Bees, no Hemi Belvederes, no Hemi or 413 Plymouth Savoys or Dodge 330s, no "Christine" Furys, no 50's 300s, no Hemi Darts. A few 70-71 Cudas and Challengers, and very few 340 Dusters. I haven't seen a single Javelin or AMX, or Hurst/Rambler, or Rebel Machine.  Maybe I was just in the wrong places at the wrong time, but I don't think so. Usually, even if you don't go to the "Show and Shines" you see rare and cool stuff driving around town. Not this year. Maybe because of the recession and high gas prices fewer people came out, and perhaps a lot of people didn't come from the midwest or back east-maybe all I'm seeing is local and West Coast-California, Oregon, Washington cars. I don't know, I'll have to get the final car count when it's over, but it sure as hell seems like a lot less cars came out this year. Hope that's a fluke, and we can rebound next year. Mastermind       

Do people think it's cool to spout ridiculous dollar figures?....Or are they that stupid?

I just have to comment on this issue. I see it in magazines all the time and this week I'm seeing it in my local newspaper as they report on Hot August Nights. What I'm talking about is people saying they have $100,000 or more invested in a car. And I'm not talking numbers-matching Shelby Mustangs, LS6 Chevelles, Hemi Road Runners, or GTO Judge Convertibles. I'm talking about junk. When I say Junk, I mean stuff that serious gearheads wouldn't use for parts cars 20 years ago, and even 10 years ago people would pass over them in search of a more premium, better equipped model. Here's a few examples that made my head want to explode. #1. This guy said he had 100K in a Base-model 1968 Mustang. That's right-it wasn't a GT350 or GT500 Shelby, or a 390,4-speed GT, or even a "California Special". No, this was a garden variety, 289/automatic Mustang. The article said he paid $12,000 for it several years ago. If that's true, it had to be completely restored, or at least pretty damn nice to begin with. It had a mild 289 and a C4 for a drivetrain, not a $15,000 514 stroker and a $3,000 Tremec six-speed. The suspension and brakes were stock-no aftermarket subframes or rack and pinion steering, no narrowed rear end, stock disc/drum brakes, no Brembos or Wildwood Nascar-quality 4-wheel disc setup. The interior was basically stock, even if it was all new. What did the guy do, have every part on the car gold-plated? Even if this guy wasn't a mechanic and had to pay a shop $100 an hour to work on the car, I honestly don't see how the guy could possibly have spent 88 grand on this car over and above the stated 12K purchase price. Unless he's talking out his ass and thinks it sounds cool, which I think is the case. #2. This clown had a 32 Ford 5-window. This one was even worse. The guy said he'd paid $28,000 for the car 15 years ago. Hello? Again-for $28,000 in 1996 dollars the car had to be pretty damn nice, if not show-quality to start with. I mean would you shell out damn near 30 grand for a basket case or fixer-upper?  I think not. This guy said he had 100K in the car over and above the purchase price. How? It had a small-block Ford under the hood, the suspension appeared to be Pinto/Mustang II, and the interior didn't appear to be upholstered in mink. # 3 This was a 1968 El Camino that the guy claimed to have $75,000 in. Again-it wasn't an L78 SS396, it was a small-block base model. It was nice, but it was powered by a garden-variety 350-not a $20,000 700hp 572 crate engine. Again-the suspension and brakes were stock, the wheels were Cragar SS's-I mean I have no Idea how you could get 75 grand into this car, unless it was junk when you bought it, and you paid 40 grand for it as a "project".  I wouldn't have paid more ten grand for this at an auction, so if the guy really did have 75K in it, he's a moron. Which I think most of these types are-you don't sound cool, and no one's going to offer you that insane amount of money for a nothing car that only you think is cool. I wish people would stop interviewing these yahoos that make the rest of us look bad. Mastermind