This site is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of 1960's and '70's Musclecars. I will answer any and all questions about what is original, and what are "Period Correct" modifications. I will also post my personal opinion about what is and is not proper. People are encouraged to debate me or share their own opinions or experiences.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Overkill!!
A lot of magazines are doing classic musclecars as project cars. I don't begrudge these magazines "Restifying" these cars. No one except a concours show enthusiast wants to read about someone building a car totally stock. Hey-I can deal with the aluminum Edelbrock heads, the hydraulic or solid roller cams, and the five-speed sticks and four-speed automatics these buff magazines use to "Improve" the performance of these classic cars. What irks me is some of the other "upgrades." For example, unless your hot-lapping at Laguna Seca, why does every project car have to have four-wheel aftermarket Baer or Wildwood disc brakes? I'm all for safety, but honestly-the front disc / rear drum brakes on the average GM A or F-body, Chrysler B or E-body or Ford Mustang aren't adequate to stop the car safely during daily driving or even during a weekend trip to the drags? If the car is older-say pre-1969 and had four-wheel drums from the factory you have to go with a $3500 aftermarket 4-wheel disc setup? If the car is a 1964-72 GM A-body you can't write an article about how easy it is to use 70-81 Camaro / Firebird spindles, rotors, calipers and master cylinder for a cheap, reliable junkyard or local auto parts store upgrade? If it's an early '60's Impala or Pontiac Catalina or Gran Prix, you can't possibly use the front disc brakes off a 1970 and later Impala, Catalina, Bonneville or Olds 88? The same for rear ends. A GM 10 or 12 bolt or a Chrysler 8 3 /4 or a Ford 8.8 isn't adequate? I have never seen anyone break one of those under normal conditions. Even with drag radials, the tires spin before anything breaks! You "Gotta have" a 9 inch Ford setup? If you have a 700 hp motor with nitrous, wrinklewall slicks bolted to the rims, and your launching at 5,000 rpm constantly, then yes, you might break the axle. But for god's sake-If it's a "Street Machine" like these cars are supposed to be-driven on the street and occasionally taken to the drags-do you need an axle worthy of a NASCAR stocker or Top-Fuel dragster? The same for handling "upgrades". If you want to Autocross or slalom, I could think of a dozen cars that are way better choices than a 4,000 lb 1960's GM A-body. Ford Mustang or Chrysler B-body. Like a Honda S2000 or Mazda RX8 or C4 or C5 Corvette. You want to improve the handling- how about articles on what factory sway bars interchange from model to model, or that an '80's WS6 T/A steering box will fit A and F body's from 1964-92? No, they have to write about complete aftermarket sub-frame swaps, rack and pinion steering swaps, aluminum or tubular steel control arm swaps, etc. You want a Porsche 911, then go buy one. But don't try to turn a 1965 Cutlass or 1970 Road Runner into one! LIke I said earlier-you wouldn't buy a WWII Colt .45 and put laser sights on it. I love musclecars, but guys, sometimes you get waaay away from the basics. Just had to vent on this. Mastermind
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