This site is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of 1960's and '70's Musclecars. I will answer any and all questions about what is original, and what are "Period Correct" modifications. I will also post my personal opinion about what is and is not proper. People are encouraged to debate me or share their own opinions or experiences.
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
De-Bunking "Gotta Haves" to save you money!!
I know the last couple posts have been cynical, but I've seen this go on since the '70's. A magazine will feature an article "Smokey Yunick's Tips for building a high-hp Small-Block Chevy." In the article, Smokey is talking about building a 700 hp engine that has to turn 7,800 rpm for 500 miles at Daytona in a Winston Cup NASCAR race car. If that's your objective-then yes-you need a four-bolt main block, a forged steel crank, heavy duty "Pink" rods, forged pistons, screw in studs in the extensively ported heads, etc, etc. If your re-building an engine for your daily driver, work truck, street / strip machine or show car that's never going to see the high side of 6,500 rpm even on a weekend at the drags-you don't need all that extra beef and expense. I have raced SBC-powered circle-track "Street stock" and "Hobby Stock" cars for years and never had any trouble using two-bolt main blocks, cast cranks, a stock oil pump, cast pistons, and stock heads. Yes, we had a few DNF's do to mechanical failure-but more often than not that was because the water pump blew, the fuel pump quit, the clutch let go, the ignition control module quit, etc. I NEVER didn't finish a race because we lost a main or rod bearing, or a piston failed, or anything related to the bottom end. As for valvetrain failure-once in a while we'd lose a rocker arm or a pushrod or pop a valvespring, but in 20 years-I NEVER saw a stud pull out of a head. But "Joe Average" reading the article doesn't know this-he figures-"Smokey Yunick is THE Chevy performance guru, so if he says you need all that stuff, then you probably do." But-and it's a HUGE But- He was talking about building a RACE CAR. I guarantee if you asked Smokey to build you a reliable 400 hp street engine and guarantee it for a year-he would tell you to go ahead and use a two-bolt main block, a cast crank, and cast pistons, a stock oil pump and stock heads. He'd tell you-instead of spending a ton of money on unnecessary beef and machine work-to save that money for a high-quality performance cam kit, a set of headers, a performance carb and intake, and maybe a higher-stall converter and some gears to put all that newfound power to the ground. John Lingenfelter said the same thing-"I would only recommend forged pistons if you were going to run a blower or nitrous." "And then I would ask-"If you have that much money and need to go that fast, why aren't you building a 454 instead of a 350?" The same goes for other stuff. Read any Mopar Magazine and they'll tell you that you "Gotta Have" a Dana 60 rear end. Well, if you have a 700 hp Hemi with nitrous, a 5 grand converter and a trans-brake, and your running wrinklewall slicks bolted to the rims with 15 psi in them, I'd say that's probably good advice. But for anything else-I know a guy that races a Duster with a 505 inch stroker that's never had an ounce of trouble with the 8 3/4 rear. In fact I know guys with Road Runners, Chargers, 'Cudas, etc with 383s and 440s with 4-speeds that pop the clutch and powershift on 30 dragstrip passes a weekend with no problems. Honestly- in 30+ years of working on cars I've never SEEN or even heard of anyone actually breaking a Chrysler 8 3/4 rear end!! That's like the people that say the Borg-Warner T5 transmissions can't stand up to performance use. No, they won't stand up to a 600hp 454 Chevy or 460 Ford. But I know guys with "5.0" Mustangs that run in the 12s with the stock T5 and have no problems. I know guys that have yanked the 305 out of their '80's Camaros and replaced it with a stout 350, and run low 13s, spinning all of low gear and these trannys have lasted two or three years. Up to about 350 hp, you should be fine with a T5 in a street car. If you build 400 or more hp, then I'd upgrade to a Tremec or Richmond 5-speed. But the average guy doesn't know any of this. He innocently buys a used IROC-Z Camaro and when he says he wants more power-a bunch of "experts" who have never raced or even owned a Camaro start telling him he's "Gotta have" a $3,000 TKO conversion because he wants to put an Edelbrock intake and matching cam on his L69 305!! See what I'm saying? I think magazines should be clearer about the intended usage of a part before they declare it a "Gotta Have." Mastermind
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