Some "Rodney Dangerfields" that didn't make the list....And Why....

Comedian Rodney Dangerfield always joked that he got "No Respect". That's why I called some of the overlooked engines in the last posts "Rodney Dangerfields". However-as I pointed out-these engines can make plenty of power and torque for low bucks. Like I said,maybe not as much as a GMPP 572 inch Rat or Mopar Performance 505 Wedge or Ford SVT 514 or in the case of the small-blocks not as much as-an Edelbrock or GMPP 383 or Ford SVT 427-but enough to get the average Joe 12 second et's in a still pretty streetable package for relatively low bucks. I had other people suggest other engines that I overlooked but they were specifically kept off the list for one of two reasons-either they are obsolete and parts are non-existant or very hard to find and expensive, or there is a "sister" engine that is much more widely available and has good parts availability and makes way more power for the same or less dollar investment. # 1. This is a perfect example. 1968-73 307, 1977-95 305 Chevy V8. People asked why I overlooked the 305s and 307s when I espoused the virtues of the 283. Here's why-the 283 can be safely bored to 301 inches-with a 4 inch bore and a 3 inch stroke that's exatcly the dimensions of the original Z/28 302. Chevy engineers did basically the same thing-they put a 283 crank in a 327 block. Like I said a 301 Chevy can be a high-winding rocket. The small-journal bottom-end will stay together till 7,500-8,000 rpm easily and big-port "2.02" factory or aftermarket heads will fit. SCCA Trans-Am racers were getting 485 hp from 302 inches with in 1968-with off-the-shelf Chevy parts!  Even 40+ years later you can't make anywhere near that power level with a 305 /307. Here's why-mainly they are both a small-bore / long stroke design. This was done to make an "economy" motor designed to get good gas mileage with a 2bbl carb and still have enough low-end torque to pull a station wagon or 1/2 ton pickup around. However-this caused two problems for people looking for high-performance-the small-bore design doesn't allow you to use the big "2.02" or even 2.05 / 2.08 intake valves of  most factory and aftermarket iron or aluminum heads. The valves will hit the block. Without the big-port heads the engine can't breathe good enough to generate any serious power. And the long-stroke bottom end doesn't hold up well past 5,500 rpm. And lastly-350s are the proverbial dime a dozen and make WAY more power either stock or modified. The only thing a 305 or 307 is good for is if it's already in the car and running, and you want to drive the car while your building another engine. # 2. 352 Ford V8. While these belong to the same family-the "FE" series-of the 390 / 427 / 428-there pretty useless. The reason is-while their big and heavy-there only 352 cubes. Since 390s were used in zillions of Ford cars and trucks from 1963-76-and can be bored and stroked to 447 inches-I'd just get a 390. Or a 351W can make way more power for less money. Also avoid the 360 V8 that was offered in Ford trucks in the mid-70's. They used a 390 crank in a small-bore block and had the double attributes of no power and crappy gas mileage. Unless your restoring a 1960 Ford Starliner to the nth degree I'd forget the 352 and just get a 390. # 3. 326 / 350 Pontiac V8. These have the same problem as the 305 / 307 Chevys. They are a small-bore / long stroke design which gives them decent low-end torque, but the big-port / big valve heads used on the larger 389 / 400 / 421 / 428 / 455 engines don't fit-the valves hit the block. Some people talk about notching the cylinder bores for clearance but why would you spend a ton of money on custom machine work that may not work anyway-how are the head gaskets going to seal with a big gash cut into the cylinders?-and all other things being equal a 350 is not going to make anywhere near the power a 400 will and a 400 costs no more to buy or build. # 4. 361 Chrysler. These are a "B" engine just like a 383 / 400. However-like the 352 Ford-their big and heavy, and there only 361 cubes. An "LA" or "Magnum" 360 small-block is much lighter and makes way more power for less money for the street rod crowd. And for musclecar guys since the 383 /400s are so plentiful-and make substantially more power even stock-it just doesn't make sense to use a 361. # 5. 394 Olds V8. These are big and heavy,there's virtually no parts availability-and because 1965 and later engines use a different deck height and bank angle-NOTHING interchanges with the later 400 / 425 / 455 engines. Edelbrock makes Aluminum heads and Pefromer, Performer RPM and Torker intakes and cams for the later engines-but none of that stuff will work on a 394. Unless your restoring an early '60's 88 to the nth degree-you'd be better off with the later big blocks or even a 350 / 403 in your Olds project.  # 6. 300 / 327 / 340 Buick V8. Same deal here-there is zero aftermarket support and nothing interchanges with the '68-77 350. If you have an early Skylark with one of these and want a big performance infusion and keep the car all Buick the best way is find a '68-77 350 and swap that in and swap the two-speed ST300 for a TH350-they are the exact same length and use the same rear trans mount and driveshaft yoke. If you need SERIOUS power and want to stay all Buick-( no 350 / 403 Olds or big-block Chevy or Pontiac transplants ) then you'll need a 400 / 430 / 455 out of a big car.  Anyhow-hope this helps everyone out-some overlooked engines are "Diamonds in the Rough" and others are only useful as boat anchors. Mastermind