This site is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of 1960's and '70's Musclecars. I will answer any and all questions about what is original, and what are "Period Correct" modifications. I will also post my personal opinion about what is and is not proper. People are encouraged to debate me or share their own opinions or experiences.
Wednesday, October 18, 2017
What's the first modification you should do? It varies depending on the car.....
People ask me all the time "What's the first thing I should do to improve the performance of my musclecar?" I assume they want some stock answer-like headers or a carb and intake or whatever. But the truth is it varies greatly depending on the car. For example if you have a late '60's or early '70's Chevelle or Camaro with a 4-speed-the first thing you should do is replace the awful Muncie or Inland shift linkage with a Hurst Competition Plus. For some insane reason-these linkages were body mounted, and would bind up under load. Forget powershifting at 6,000 rpm; you'd be lucky if you could change gears at 3,500-4,000 if you had your foot in it. Small-block Novas and Camaros that had Saginaw 4-speeds were just as bad. If you had a GTO or a Firebird or an Olds 442-they had a Hurst shifter from the factory that was transmission mounted and could she shifted quickly at any speed. If you have a disco-era Pontiac Trans-Am with an automatic transmission, the first mod you need to make is an axle ratio change. These cars had salt-flats gearing like 2.41:1 or 2.56:1. Swapping for something in the 3.23:1 to 3.73:1 range will give a stunning improvement in 0-60 and 1/4 mile times without hurting gas mileage or drivability too much. 4-speed models, the shoe is on the other foot-they came from the factory with 3.23:1 or 3.42:1 gears. For them the first thing I would do is get an Edelbrock Performer intake. The factory '75-79 intakes have a restrictive throttle opening that really limits power above 4,000 rpm. The point I'm making is the gear change on the TH350 models would net a bigger improvement than changing the intake. On the stick models that already had decent gearing-the intake would net a big improvement. Even bigger than opening up the exhaust-which should be the second mod. See what I'm saying? If you have a 1970-73 351C Mustang-a lot of these cars had 2bbl-carburation-obviously the first thing should be to get a 4bbl carb and intake. If the car has a 4bbl from the factory and an automatic trans, then the first thing I'd do is add a B&M or TransGo shift improver kit. If you have a 440,4-speed Road Runner or a 396 / 4-speed Camaro or a 455 / 4-speed Trans-Am-or any other big-block car with a manual trans and leaf-spring rear suspension that has traction problems-the first thing I'd do is get a set of traction bars or a pinion snubber. You don't need more power-you need to put what you have to the ground before you start adding more tire-shredding power and torque!! If you have any '60's or early '70's Chrysler musclecar-the first thing I'd do is get a Mopar Performance or MSD electronic distributor!! Or if you want to stay "period correct" and still use points-then I'd get an Accel or Mallory high-performance point-type distributor. The reason is factory Mopar points were awful. They'd close up and bounce above about 4,500 rpm. You never saw a Mopar racer without extra points in his toolbox-and they were usually Accel or Mallory!! So you can see every car is unique in their weaknesses that I would fix first. Do some research before you throw away money on something that doesn't offer a huge bang for the buck. Mastermind
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment