One of the cable channels has a show called "Property Virgins" where pros help first-time homebuyers get the best deal and avoid costly mistakes. Maybe there should be one for classic car buyers. Anyhow here's how to avoid spending unnecessary money and causing your self untold grief that you don't need. # 1. This should be a no-brainer, but you'd be surprised at the people that fall into this trap. Make sure the car has a clear title. No matter how cheap it is, a car without a title is not a deal. Something that you can't legally register or sell is a nightmare. I bought my 442 off a used car lot, registered it, and drove it for 18 years on sunny days and during Hot August Nights. When I decided to sell it I couldn't find the title. No problem-I'll just call DMV and get a duplicate, right? Wrong. Because a DMV clerk transposed 2 numbers on the VIN when I registered it initially 18 years ago-they wouldn't give me another title-even though I had registered and insured the car for 18 years!! It took me nearly two years and several hundred dollars in lawyer fees to get a title for a car I legally owned for 18 years!! God help me if the car come from a junkyard or had a salvage title. # 2. A "Basket Case" is not a deal no matter how low the price is. Even if you are a professional mechanic or bodyman by trade-a car with major body or rust issues, frame damage, water damage, fire damage etc-is a nightmare and a money pit. 99.999% of the time your better off spending more money and getting a better car to start with. # 3. A rare or special car missing key components is not a deal at any price. Obvious examples would be a Chrysler Hemi car without the Hemi engine or a Boss 302 or 429 Mustang without the "Boss" engines. The cost of finding an engine and all the accesorries would be so prohibitive-that even if you had Donald Trump's bank account-you'd be financially ahead of the game by just finding a complete car and buying that. Others would be '57-65 Fuel Injected Corvettes or a '57 Pontiac Bonneville without the Fuel Injection system-If you can find a complete Rochester Fuel Injection setup for a '63 Corvette-how high in the stratosphere do you think it will be priced? Again-you might be better off just getting a more complete car. # 4. Get the options you want, even if you have to pay a little more for it. For example-if you want an SS396 Chevelle with a 4-speed-then search until you find one. Don't buy a small-block Malibu with an automatic because "Its a deal" and then think you'll "convert" it later. You won't, and it'll cost too much in time and money. The same goes for front disc brakes, or power steering or air conditioning. It's much easier and more cost-effective to just find a car that has that already on it than it is to add it later. # 5. Consider different models or sisters / cousins of the same car. I'd much rather have a 400, 4-speed, T-Topped '77 Firebird Formula than a '79 403 Olds / TH350 Trans-Am. If you a Mopar fan-don't pass up a reasonably priced, pristine Super Bee because your looking for a Charger. I'd rather have a loaded 390 powered '68 Cougar than a strippy 289 '68 Mustang. You may not be able to afford an L88 427 Corvette, but you might find a deal on a 390 hp L72 version. See what I'm saying? # 6. Stay away from "Freaks." By this I mean cars with weird options. Two-speed automatics,three-speed sticks, column-shifted bucket seat cars, two-barrel step-down engines,etc- aren't collectible-their just weird. I mean do you really want a "Turnpike Special" '68 GTO with a 265 hp 2bbl 400 V8, an automatic and 2.56:1 gears that can't outrun a V6 Camry from a light? Or a 427 Corvette with a Powerglide 2-speed automatic? Hope these tips will save somebody some money and aggravation. Mastermind
No comments:
Post a Comment