You got beat by a "slower" car? Here's why and how to fix it.....

Talked to some people the other day at a Mustang club "Show&Shine".  A few of them were griping how they'd lost "Stoplight" Gran Prix's to cars that magazine road tests said were substantially slower. Listening to some of these cars run when they started them, I wasn't surprised. I hear this complaint all the time at "Show&Shine's" and it doesn't matter if the club is GM, Ford, Mopar or AMC.  Here's the problem's that cause this and how to fix it.  # 1. A major engine problem. Do a simple compression test. Even an 8:1 "smog" motor will have 120 psi of compression; higher compression engines will have 150 or 175 or more. The main thing is all 8 cylinders should be close-within 5-10 psi of each other. If one or more cylinders only has 80 or 90 psi of compression-you've got a major problem-bad rings, a blown head gasket, or burned valves. This is more common than you think-I see dozens of Musclecars limping around on 6 or 7 cylinders. # 2. No high rpm power. I'm not talking 7,000 or 8,000 rpm-many cars don't have the bottom end or valvetrain for that. But a 318 Dodge with a 2bbl and 100,000 miles on it will rev to 5,000 rpm or so. If your car starts popping or missing above 3,000 rpm or won't rev past 4,000 or 4,500 you could have a flat cam, weak valve springs, or major timing chain slop. You'd be amazed at the number of musclecars running around with $5,000 paint jobs and $2,000 worth of tires and wheels that can't pull 5,000 rpm in low gear. #3. Bad Ignition setup / tuning. Even on a bone-stock engine bad tuning can cost you as much as 50 hp. I see it all the time-the vacuum advance is unplugged or inoperable, the points are closing up,the timing is way too advanced or way too slow, plug wires are arcing, etc.  Again-guys will tell you about their $5,000 paint job-but they can't remember the last time they changed the plugs and wires, or the cap ,rotor and points!!  #4. Bad Carburators / tuning. I see this all the time. The carb is jetted way too rich or way too lean, the float is sinking, the throttle shafts are warped, the throttle linkage sticks or doesn't open all the way. Think about it-do you really expect a 45 or 50 year old carb to be working flawlessly? The solution is simple-get a new carb. Even some Concours show organizations have changed their rules to allow the carb to be the "Original Type"-i.e.-your 1970 Z/28 is ok if it has a 3310 Holley on it-but it doesn't have to have 1970 date codes. Your '68 440 Charger is ok with an Edelbrock AVS on it-it doesn't have to be a 1968 Carter. The other thing is a lot of these cars are trailer queens / garage jewelry. Their only driven on and off the trailer or for a few weeks a year in the summer for Hot August Nights or the Hot Rod Power tour or whatever. The owners are so damned afraid of blowing it up that the car never sees the high side of 3,000 rpm. Then, the second it fouls a spark plug-they start screwing around with the carburator(s). Pretty soon it won't even start. Have a professional jet the carb(s) for you and then leave them alone!!  If the car is going to sit for extended periods and your going to drive it like grandma on Prozac then go a range or two hotter on the plugs. Then if you decide to take a trip or go to the drags changing to the recommended heat range is pretty easy. And like the GTO song-once in a while you have to "Turn it on,wind it up, blow it out! ". Nobody's saying you have run your Hemi to 7 grand and risk blowing it up; but a run through the gears to even 4,500 rpm or so once a month or a good old-fashioned full-throttle run down the freeway once in a while goes a long way to keeping carbon buildup and sludge out of the fuel system. # 5. Bad transmissions / tuning. I see tons of musclecars running around 2 qts low on transmission fluid, with slipping converters,vacuum modulators un-hooked, sticking governors etc. If you have an automatic trans-change the fluid every couple years even if you don't drive it 5,000 miles a year. Make sure the vacuum modulator is working and that your kickdown linkage is hooked up and working properly. Make sure the cooler isn't plugged up and put a B&M or TransGo shift kit in it. It makes a huge difference. The same goes for sticks-the clutch is slipping or not engaging properly, the shift linkage hangs up or get's caught between gears-these are relatively easy fixes-a new clutch setup or a new Hurst shifter is not that hard to do. # 6. Bad exhaust. Again-you'd be amazed at the number of cars I see with $5,000 paint jobs-that sound like an old school bus. The exhaust system is rusted out or crushed and has multiple leaks-which hurts performance. The worst offenders are the guys who will spend $1,000 bucks on a Flowmaster or Dynomax dual setup and mufflers-but the headers / exhaust manifolds have huge leaks under the hood!! Changing the exhaust manifold / header gaskets and tightening the bolts once in a while goes a long way to keeping the system leak-free-which keeps you from losing large amounts of power. Anyhow-these simple tips will keep your car running like it should and not embarrass you next time you decide to smite some kid in an import or a soccer mom in a V8 Cherokee!!  Mastermind