This site is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of 1960's and '70's Musclecars. I will answer any and all questions about what is original, and what are "Period Correct" modifications. I will also post my personal opinion about what is and is not proper. People are encouraged to debate me or share their own opinions or experiences.
Wednesday, November 28, 2018
More on crazy "Correctness"....
Kind of in the same vein as the last post I see some utter insanity in musclecar restorations. I read an article where a guy paid $4,000 for a carburator for a Boss 351 Mustang. To me that's insane. Mainly because my dad and I worked for Ford in the early '70's and the Autolite 4300 is the WORST carb ever made, bar none. They didn't work when they were brand-new. If you had a 351CJ Mustang or a T-Bird or Lincoln MKIV with a 460-they would be hard to start, stumble under acceleration, get crappy gas mileage-I mean like 5-8 mpg-they were just awful. If you bitched hard enough Ford dealers would replace it with a 600 Holley 4bbl and warranty it. That's how bad they were, brand-new. I can't imagine trying to make one work 40+ years later. So if I was buying a for-real Boss 351 I'd be happy to see an Edelbrock or Holley carb sitting on top of the engine. Especially if I wanted to drive the car at all. Be honest-if your looking for a one of 1,806 1971 Boss 351s ever built, and you find one perfectly restored, with a numbers-matching engine and tranny, the color you want, the interior color you want, with a Marti report. Are you going to not buy it because it has a 750 Edelbrock or Holley on it instead of that awful Autolite 4300? I don't think anyone in their right mind would pass up an otherwise flawless car over a carburator. I read of another person restoring a COPO 427 Camaro who paid $14,000 for a "Correct" 12-bolt rear end. That's not a typo-I didn't mean $1,400-I meant Fourteen Thousand!! For an axle housing?? Assuming the car is otherwise all there, it's still going to be worth 6 figures even with an "incorrect" rear axle-whether it's a 12 bolt with the wrong date codes, or a 10 bolt, or a Ford 9-inch or a Dana 60!! That's just insane-especially when you can buy a brand-new Moser 12-bolt posi, or a Currie 9 inch with GM mounting points for about $3,000!! This fetishization of "numbers" has got to stop. I mean-let's say you had $150,000 to spare and you found a for-real, numbers-matching 1963 Fuel-Injected Split-Window Corvette Stingray with the knock-off wheels, everything. Except the T10 4-speed in it doesn't have 1962 or 63 date codes, because the case on the original trans was cracked, and the guy who did the restoration installed a new Richmond unit. Or a rebuilt T10 out of a '79 Z/28 Camaro. Are you really going to not buy the car because the trans-which is technically "correct"-it's a T10-has the wrong manufacturing date stamped on it? Really? Personally I think the restorer did the right thing. A later T10 is much more correct for the car than if he slapped a Muncie in it. Especially since a lot of Concours show organizations are allowing parts to be the "Original Type"-i.e.-a '69 Z/ 28 won't lose points because the 3310 Holley carb on it doesn't have 1969 date codes. Or should the restorer have scoured the galaxy and spent umpteen more dollars searching for a 1963 vintage T10? Come on. A pristine, '68 GTX with a 440 is not ruined because the owner put a new Edelbrock AVS carb on it in place of the warped, leaking, bleeding over, 50 year old original Carter!! An SS396 Chevelle is not "bastardized" if it has a Hurst shifter in place of the awful Muncie unit. At some point the voice of reason and sanity has to kick in. Mastermind
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