Just because something is possible, doesn't mean you should attempt it....

I get people asking me all the time about wild combinations they read about in the buff magazines. Some are feasible, some are not. What kills me is the "Catch 22" of it. The people who are interested in these projects are not professional mechanics by trade, and have very little knowledge of cars in general. A professional mechanic would know not to attempt such a difficult endeavor. Here's an example. Some guy had read an article where a guy used a 350 Olds Diesel block ( they are much beefier than the gas models ) with a custom crank, Buick rods, custom pistons, etc that was bored and stroked to 440 inches. It also used 455 Olds heads, a custom ported Edelbrock RPM intake, a small-block Chevy type valvetrain etc. He wanted to know how much trouble it would be to duplicate this effort. More than it would be worth in both time and dollars I said. First off-if you want a big-inch Olds engine just buy a 425 or 455. They were used in virtually every model from 1965-76 and there is great aftermarket support. Secondly, rather than stroke out a 350-you could buy a 400-that was used from 1965-69, or you could use a 403. Even though they were only used from 1977-79-there are millions of them in Buick Rivieras, Park Avenues, and Electras, Olds 88s and 98s, Cutlasses and big BOP wagons, as well as Pontiac Bonnevilles and Catalinas, and Trans-Am and Formula Firebirds. Whether you hopped up a 403-which anything that fits a 350 Olds fits a 403-Edelbrock claims 397 hp on the 350 Performer RPM package-53 more cubes would definitely put you well over 400 hp, or the "old-school" 400-425-455-either one would be much cheaper and easier to build, and probably make as much or more power than a stroked out 350 diesel with a bunch of custom, expensive, one-off parts. Something isn't cooler just because it's hard to do. It's possible to put a 460 into a Fox Mustang, but why? I know guys that are running 10s and 11s with 302s or 347s ( 302 with a stroker crank ). Is a 460 swap going to go faster than that? Probably not, and we know it's going to cost way more, and be a ton of hassle to do. So why do it?  I touched on these before-but here's two more examples of people wanting to take the path of MOST resistance. The one guy was thinking of buying his neighbor's pristine, low-mileage '89 Mustang. It was a 4-banger model. He asked about swapping in a 302. I told him to just go buy a "5.0" Mustang. Their plentiful. Swapping a V8 into a 4-cylinder model would be a nightmare. The number of parts you'd have to chase down is staggering. Again-it's just easier-go buy a Mustang that has a 302 in it from the factory. I have seen rough-but-running examples as low as $1,200 and anything over $2,500 is usually pretty nice. Then he asks about turbocharging the 4-cylinder. Same deal-I told him to find an '84-86 SVO Mustang. These had Recaro seats,4-wheel disc brakes, upgraded suspension,50-series tires on 16" wheels and a Turbocharged 2.3 liter 4-cylinder engine with between 175 and 205 hp depending on years. Trying to turbo a stock 2.3 with aftermarket parts would be major-league expensive and probably wouldn't be as fast or reliable as a warmed-over "5.0".  The other guy had a '79 Trans-Am with a 403 Olds / TH350 powertrain. He asked how much trouble it would be to convert it to a 4-speed. Too much. I said. I recommended he sell the car and look for another 70's-era T/A or Formula Firebird with the 400 Pontiac / 4-speed combo from the factory. "No, really?" he asked. "No, really." I answered. Besides chasing down the clutch linkage and all the pedals, the shift linkage, the crossmember,the transmission, and the bellhousing, the main problem is GM never offered the 403 in any GM car with a manual transmission. Where is he going to get a flywheel? No one offers an aftermarket manual-trans flywheel for a 403!!  He could probably use a 350 Olds flywheel, but GM hasn't built a car with a 350 Olds engine and a manual transmission since 1974!!  Where are you going to find a usable, 45 year old flywheel?  I had a similar conversation with a guy who had an L98 350 / TH700R4 IROC-Z.  His buddy had an LB9 305 / 5-speed Z / 28. The IROC was faster in a drag race but the stick Z/28 was more fun to drive. He asked what it would take to convert the IROC to a 5-speed. I told him just sell the car and use the money to buy a nice LB9 or L69 / 5-speed Z/28 or T/A / Formula Firebird. I said putting an Edelbrock Performer Intake and matching cam on the carburated L69 would bring the hp up to or beyond the L98's.  For an LB9 model I suggested a 160 thermostat and a fan switch that turned the fan on at 185 instead of 220 would help immensely. I also suggested a larger throttle body, and Edelbrock's ported baseplate and TPI runners. These mods would bump the LB9's power level from 215 hp past the L98's 240 easily.  Yes the parts are readily available to do the change-over in junkyards or the aftermarket-but honestly-do you really want to chase down the trans, the bellhousing, the flywheel, the clutch, the linkage, the pedals, the shift linkage, cut a hole in the floor for the shifter, adapt a new neutral safety switch, etc, etc?  Wouldn't it be easier to just buy a car with a 5-speed already in it? Like I said minor, relatively inexpensive upgrades would bump the 305's power up to the 350's level.  In fact-if he just "HAD" to have a 350 / 5-speed combo-swapping a 350 for a 305 is an absolute bolt-in. Certainly a lot easier than swapping a TH700R4 for a T5!!   A couple of "G" body owners didn't like my suggestions either. One had an '84 Buick Regal. He wanted to swap in a 455 Buick. It's possible-I said. But since his car was powered by a 307 Olds V8, I said a 403 Olds would be a bolt-in swap. The nearly 100 extra cubes would certainly be an instant power and torque infusion, and that's if the 403 was bone-stock. If he used some headers and an Edelbrock intake and matching cam, he'd have a combo that would really rip on the street. The last 455 Buick rolled off the assembly line in 1976-43 years ago. Even if you find a running or rebuildable one-you have to chase all the tin and the brackets to mount the alternator, power steering pump, etc. The 403 would be so much easier and cheaper, and probably just as quick. The 2nd guy had an '85 Pontiac Gran Prix and wanted to convert it back to "real" Pontiac power. Since it had a 305 Chevy under the hood-the easiest path to big power would be to bolt in a 350 or 383 Chevy. Besides chasing down a 400 Pontiac-which have been out of production since 1977-and all the brackets,accesories, etc-since Chevy engines have a different bellhousing bolt-pattern than BOP engines, you'd also need a new transmission. And is a 400 Pontiac going to run any stronger than a well-built 350 or 383 Chevy?  No. The cost vs gain just doesn't add up. So think carefully before you take on some "easy" project. Yes manned space flight is possible-but it isn't cheap or easy!  Mastermind                      

The "Other" 350s re-visited.....

While the big-block cars get all the press and people fight with machetes to buy them, the fact remains that there are hundreds of thousands of  LeMans, Firebird, Ventura, Cutlass,Omega, and Skylark,and Regal models out there built from 1968-77 that have 350 cubes under the hood. If you have or want to buy one of these cars don't despair. If your buying one to swap a 455 into, then by all means do it; but if your not planning an engine swap these "other" i.e.-non-Chevrolet 350s can be made to run to pretty damn good. Good enough that you'll surprise some smug big-block owners in a drag race. # 1. 350 Olds. Out of the BOP ( Buick , Olds, Pontiac ) 350s the Olds engine has the most potential. The reasons are two-fold-one their a large-bore, short stroke design. Two-there was a factory high-performance version-the fire-breathing W31. Olds 350s respond well to basic hot rod tricks-4bbl carb and intake, headers and dual exhausts, cam upgrades. If you have a heavy car with an automatic-most '70's Cutlasses-you want to go for maximum torque. That means 1 5/8 headers and a dual-plane intake like the Edelbrock Performer. I'd also use the matching Performer cam. This simple combo will make more than 350 lbs of torque from idle on up which will give you some great street performance. I'd also change axle ratios. Most '70's Cutlasses had 2.56:1 or 2.73:1 gears which is not conducive to good acceleration. I switch to something in the 3.23:1-3.42:1 range. This will give you a huge boost in 0-60 and 1/4 mile acceleration without hurting drivability or freeway cruising rpm too much. If you want a wilder combination-dig for '68-72 heads. These have 70cc combustion chambers which will give you a full one point boost in compression over later 83cc heads. On '75 and later blocks you'll have to re-tap the bolt holes in the heads to change from 7/16 to 1/2 inch bolts. Not a big deal. I'd use the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, or if you can find one-( they've been out of production for years ) a single-plane Holley Street Dominator. ( I had one on a 403 Olds T/A and it really woke it up ). The vaunted W31 had a cam with 308 ( 232@.050 ) duration and .474 lift. It was so lumpy that W31s were only available with a 4-speed and 3.90:1 or 4.33:1 gears, and couldn't be ordered with power brakes because the engine didn't make enough vacuum to operate them! This is because the Olds engineers took the cam out of the 400 /455 Ram Air engines. Plus you have to realize this cam is cut on 1966 profiles and is not computer optimized. If you "gotta have" it-and have a stick or an automatic with a 2,800 rpm converter and are using 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 gears-it will run like a scalded cat. But your giving up quite a bit of low-end and mid-range torque for top-end rush. The cam I like better is made by both Lunati and Edelbrock. It has 224 / 234 duration ( @.050 ) and .496 / 520 lift. You'll need some roller rockers and different pushrods but Harland Sharp has you covered, and Crane and Comp Cams also sell adjustable rockers for Olds engines. You'll still need a 2,500 rpm converter and 3.42:1 or 3.73:1 gears, but this cam makes 11 inches of vacuum at idle and has a lot more low and mid-range torque than the factory W31 cam, yet still pulls hard to 6,000 rpm and beyond. Edelbrock claims 397 hp and 400 lbs ft of torque with this combination. 400 hp will make any street car an absolute rocket. There are people who go wilder than this-using factory or Edelbrock 455 heads, custom domed pistons, and a custom ported intake, etc-but to them my question is this-If you need more than 400 hp and 400 lbs of torque, and have that much money, why aren't you building a 455 instead of a 350?  # 2. 350 Pontiac. 350 Pontiacs respond well to 4bbl carb and intake, headers and dual exhausts, mild cam,etc. I'd recommend either a factory '67-72 intake or an Edelbrock Performer or the old P4B if you run across one at a swap meet. For cams the Edelbrock Performer grind is great as is the factory "068" cam which Crane, Comp Cams, Lunati and others make exact replicas of. Again-most '70's LeMans, Firebirds and Venturas are going to have salt-flats gearing; swap the 2.56:1s for something in the 3.23:1-3.73:1 range for a stunning improvement in acceleration. These simple mods will give you 325-350 hp and 400 lbs of torque. You simply amplified what the factory did-made big torque at low rpm. If you need more than that then you need a 400 or 455, period. The limiting factor is the 350 is a small-bore design. The big-valve high-performance heads used on the 400 and 455 engines necessary for big power can't be used because the valves will hit the block. Some people will talk about releiving the block to clear the big heads, but why?  If you need that much power then just build a 400 or 455.  # 3. 350 Buick. The Buick is last for two reasons-one-unlike it's Pontiac and Olds cousins-there was never a factory high-performance version. Two-there is very little aftermarket support. Edelbrock doesn't even make a manifold for them, and they make manifolds for everything-including 472-500 Cadillacs, Flathead Fords, Hondas, LS motors, everything. There's just no parts available. There is one company called TA performance-don't ask me why-they don't make Pontiac parts-they do Buicks-and they offer aluminum intakes, cams, headers etc for 350 Buicks. You can make 290-340 hp and 375-400 lbs of torque pretty easily with parts from TA. Beyond that you'll need a 400-430-455-which Edelbrock, Crane, Comp Cams, Hooker, and many other companies DO make parts for!!  Hope this helps the owners of the "other" 350s out.  Mastermind            

A "Pure Stock" Small-Block Chevy....

As promised in the previous post today we'll talk about building a small-block Chevy to run in the Pure Stock drags. There's only 3 displacements that you can run. ( Unless you have a '76 El Camino with a 400 ).  These will be 302, 327 and 350. These are all easily doable with a 350 block, as they all have the same 4.00 inch bore size. GMPP, Eagle, Lunati and other companies sell cranks with 3.00, 3.25 and 3.48 inch strokes to get your desired displacement. TRW sells the proper pistons. Every one has a list of "gotta haves" when talking about the SBC. 4-bolt mains, forged cranks, "Pink" rods, screw in studs, etc. Yes, if your building a NASCAR Nextel Cup racer that has to go 7,800 rpm for 500 miles at Daytona, you need all the beef you can get. For a street machine that only sees weekend trips to the drags, you don't need any of that stuff. Seriously. Two bolt main blocks are fine. Cast cranks are fine as long as rpms don't go over 7,000. I have seen guys run 2-bolt mains, cast cranks and cast pistons for 2 whole seasons in an IMCA race car without a rebuild or a single problem, and these roundy-round racers are far more abused than your car will be. As for rods-the stock rods are bulletproof, especially if rpms are kept under 6,500. Stock length is 5.7 inches. Many Nascar builders run 6.0 inch rods with custom pistons. You can do this if you want some extra torque in the mid-range, and your getting new pistons anyway. If your re-using the old pistons, then save the money for other parts that offer a bigger bang for the buck. # 2. Cylinder heads. There's three types of heads I recommend. The first is simply use the heads that came on the engine. Here's why. Some people diffentriate between "standard" and "Hi-performance" heads. Standard heads have 1.94 intake valves and 1.50 exhaust valves and pressed in rocker studs. Hi-perf heads have 2.02 / 1.60 valves and screw-in studs. But here's the kicker-both heads have the exact same size intake and exhaust ports. Any competent machine shop can install the larger valves in standard heads for a minimal fee, as well as screw-in studs if you want some extra beef.  Which you don't need. My friends and I have drag raced and circle-track raced Small-block Chevys for 40+ years and I have NEVER seen a stud pull out of a head.  The 2nd one is '81-86 305 "smog" heads. These have 1.84 intakes and 1.50 exhaust valves. However-their 58cc combustion chambers will bump compression on the average 350 from 8.2:1 to about 9.6:1 when replacing 76cc heads. The large boost in hp and torque from the extra compression will more than offset the slight loss of airflow from the smaller intake valve, or any machine shop can install 1.94 valves easily and cheaply. The third type is 1996-2003 "Vortec" heads. You can buy a set of brand-new Vortec heads from Scoggin-Dickey for $700. This is a screaming deal, because most machine shops would charge nearly that much to re-condition your old heads, and they probably couldn't duplicate the trick valve job that the GM factory puts on the new heads. Vortecs breathe better than other factory head and many aftermarket ones. Their 64cc combustion chambers will bump compression one full point over 76cc heads. All these features make this a 25-40 hp bolt-on. You will need a Vortec bolt pattern intake. GMPP offers a replica of the original Z/28 / LT-1 intake in cast iron in standard and Vortec bolt patterns. This manifold makes power from idle-7,200 rpm. It is almost impossible to out-power this manifold. It's also available in aluminum if your restoring a Z/28 or LT-1 'Vette or just building the motor to those specs. Stock class rules say the intake has to be the original "type"-which means either Iron or Aluminum depending on what model you have, or are claiming to clone. Carb choices are limited to two. If your doing a Z/28 / LT-1-you can use a #3310 780 cfm Holley.  Everything else will require a Quadrajet. Luckily-the GMPP manifold is a spread-bore bolt pattern and will accept either carb without need for an adapter. # 3. Cam. The cam I recommend for this application is the Comp Cams 270H Magnum. It has 224 / 224 duration ( @.050 ) and .470 lift. It will be a little lumpy in a 302, better in a 327, and really sweet in a 350. It pulls hard from idle-6.500 rpm. I'd only use it with a stick in a 302. With a 327 / 350 it will work with an automatic and a stock torque converter. However it will launch better if you have a 2,000-2,400 rpm converter. Crane, Comp Cams, and Lunati all offer exact replicas of the original Z/28 / LT-1 solid-lifter cam if you want to use it. However-the hydraulic Magnum cam works so well and is so maintenance-free that I don't think spending the time and money to switch to a solid-lifter design is worth the extra money or the time needed to constantly adjust valve lash settings. The other hydraulic design I recommend is sold by GMPP and Crane. It's an exact replica of the "350 hp" L46 / L82 cam. It has 222 duration (@.050 ) and .450 / .460 lift. It pulls hard from idle to 6,000 rpm and works great even with an automatic and a stock converter.     # 4. Exhaust. Since many circle-track classes require iron exhaust manifolds, there are several companies that offer ported and extrude-honed Iron manifolds for small-block Chevys. Most are ported reproductions of the classic "Ram's Horn" '60's 'Vette style-but they work almost as well as steel tube headers. Use at least 2 1 /4 inch pipes and low-restriction mufflers.  # 5. Gearing. Use 4.10:1 gears. This ratio will cover a 302's lack of low-end torque ( there's a reason '67-'69 Z/28's were only available with a 4-speed and 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 gears ) and get it moving with alarcity, and will give a 327 /350 some serious mid-range and top-end pull through 2nd,3rd and 4th. ( Or 2nd and 3rd if your running a TH350 ). Depending on car weight-obviously a Nova will be quicker than a Chevelle, or a 'Vette quicker than a Camaro-this combo should run very low 13s to mid-12s depending on traction and driver skill, and will cost very little to build, and will be bulletproof dependable.  Mastermind

More tips for building a Pure Stock champ....

I said in the last post that I'd go in depth on building a Pure Stock contender. Since every engine line is different we'll have to concentrate on a specific motor. I've always been a Pontiac guy so I'll use a Pontiac as an example. I have also built many Chevys, Fords, Mopars and Oldsmobiles over the years, and if folks want advice on those I can certainly do posts about those engine lines. Anyhow-I'll use the Pontiac as our test mule. Since the 400 was used in virtually every model from 1967-78 these will be the most plentiful and chances are whether your running a LeMans, GTO, Firebird, Trans-Am or Gran Prix, this is the engine your car came with anyway. # 1. Bottom end. Most stock class rules say the engine has to be within 15 cubic inches of stock. Since a 400 Pontiac is actually 401 inches, you can build a 416. Eagle, Butler, Kauffman and other places offer Pontiac cranks in nodular Iron, cast steel and forged steel. They also offer various stroke lengths as well. Since Pontiacs are not high-revvers-were going to accentuate what the factory did, which is make big hp and torque at low rpm. Even though were technically building a race car-were going to redline it at 6,200 rpm for reliability. At that redline a stock crank or a cast steel one will work just fine. Well use one with a 3.79 inch stroke. This is slightly longer than stock which is 3.75. This coupled with a .030 or .040 overbore will give you 412-415 inches. Stock Pontiac rods are 6.675 inches. Eagle sells 6.8 inch rods for Pontiacs and Ross and TRW sell pistons to work with the longer rods. The extra stroke and longer rods will boost torque all through the range. This is why small-block Chevy NASCAR racers have used 6 inch rods for years. ( Stock is 5.7 ). Use a stock-type ( TRW, Melling ) replacement oil pump. # 2. Heads. Pontiacs run best with flat-top pistons and high-compression heads. If you have a 1970 or earlier engine with 72cc combustion chambers, your all set. this will give you about 10:1 on a 400. 1971 and later engines have much larger combustion chambers which dropped the compression. Any other time I would say use the Excellent Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with 72cc chambers. Most stock classes don't allow aluminum heads, you have to use iron. If you can't find some early heads-#670, 46,48 etc. the next best thing is the "6X" "smog" heads used on 350s and 400s from 1976-79. These actually breathe better than any factory head except the vaunted 1969-70 RAIV and '71-72 455HO heads. Pontiac heads can be milled as much as .060 inch to raise compression. ( You have to shave the intake side as well so the manifold will fit properly ). Using milled 6X's and flat tops will give you about 9.7:1 compression, which will be enough, because Pontiacs love a lot of timing. # 3. Cam. Most stock classes only stipulate that the cam has to be the original "type". In other words if the car had a hydraulic cam stock, then you have to run a hydraulic cam, you can't switch to a solid-lifter cam or a roller. However there's no real limits on lift or duration. I like one that Crane makes. It has 232 / 242 duration ( @.050 ) and .473 / .488 lift. It's a hair hotter than the factory RAIV ( 231 /240 and .470 ). It works great with a stick. If your running an automatic I like the Edelbrock Torker Cam. It has 224 / 234 duration ( @.050 ) and .465 / 488 lift. The slightly less duration gives it a better idle and allows it to work with a stock torque converter. Pontiacs make so much bottom-end torque that if you use a torque converter with more than 2,500 rpm stall speed, you'll just blow the tires off.  Since Pontiac heads ( exceptions are Edelbrocks or RAIV's ) don't breathe much over about .480 lift-you don't need a .600 lift cam. With a Pontiac, less is more. Either of these cams will pull hard from idle-5,800-6,200 rpm, which should be your shift point anyway. # 4. Induction. Most stock classes say the intake has to be the original type. With this rule-you could say your building an RAIV spec car. ( RAIV's and 455HO's had aluminum high-rise intakes from the factory ). If they allow this-Ames, NPD and other companies offer reproduction aluminum RAIV intakes. If the rules say the intake has to be Iron, don't despair. Pontiac Iron intakes from 1967-74 are excellent. ( 1975 and later models have the EGR valve intruding into the throttle opening which limits power above 4,000 rpm ). The preferred ones are the '67-72 models. ( No EGR valve at all ). Port-matching to the gasket helps. Carb-wise-Summit, Jet and other companies offer street / strip and race Quadrajets.  If your building a '62-63 Super Duty Catalina Tribute-they may allow an Edelbrock or Offenhauser dual-quad aluminum intake. If so-I'd use two 750 Edelbrocks. ( And a 4.00 inch stroke crank with 3.00 inch mains to get 434 inches with a .030 overbore on a 400 block. You'll be legal-within 15 inches of the stock 421 ). If your running a tri-power setup I'd use a mechanical linkage instead of vacuum. # 5. Exhaust. There are several companies that make ported and extrude-honed iron exhaust manifolds for Pontiacs. Behind them I'd use 3 inch pipes and low-restriction mufflers. # 6. Gearing. I'd use 4.10:1 or 4.33:1 gears. These ratios will allow you to rip out of the hole,and pull hard through all the gears. It's funny with a big-block-in my 455 Hurst / Olds when I swapped the 3.23 gears for 4.10s-it didn't help one iota in low gear. However it made a HUGE difference in 2nd and 3rd!!  Since were redlined at 6,200 rpm this will be perfect. You'll be going through the traps at 5,700-6,000. 4.88:1s would make you go slower, because you'd run out of rpm before the end of the 1/4. Depending on traction-this simple combination should run very low 12s or very high 11s, which would make you super-competitive. Maybe we'll do a small-block Chevy next.  Mastermind  

Tips for building a Pure Stock champ....

Some of the buff magazines have coverage of the Pure Stock drags this month so I've gotten some inquirys from people wanting to know the best combination to run. There is no magic "winning" combination or formula. I can give you some advice on what to do to maximize your performance. If you already have a car your planning to run-then you have to tailor your modifications to that car's strengths and weaknesses. If your going to buy a car to run, you need to think carefully. For example if you want a big-block Chevelle what year should you run? From 1966-69 the largest engine was a 396. From 1970-72 you could get a 454. Ditto for a Pontiac GTO. Fom 1964-66 they had 389s. From 1967 on the 400 was standard equipment and the 455 became optional in 1970. So should run a '70 and later model to take advantage of the monster 454 Chevy and 455 Pontiac right? Maybe not. a 1964 GTO with a Tri-Power 389 is rated at 348 hp. Let's say it has a 4-speed and a 3.90:1 rear end. And a '64 GTO weighs about 3,400 lbs. A '70 GTO with a 455 is rated at 360 hp. And it weighs 4,070 lbs. Let's say it's an automatic with 3.23:1 gears. Or a 4-speed with 3.55:1s. ( 455 GTO's didn't have stiff gearing options in 1970; although rated at 360 hp; it was a "station wagon" engine. The vaunted 455HO which had RAIV heads and intake and exhaust coupled with the "068" cam didn't debut until 1971. The RAIII and RAIV 400s were considered the top performance options in 1970 and could be had with 3.90:1 or 4.33:1 gears ). Guess what? 12 hp won't overcome a nearly 700 lb weight advantage and the mechanical advantage of stiffer gearing. All other things being equal-the '64 GTO wins the drag race easily even though it's the car with "less" power. Ditto for the Chevelle owner-early Chevelles are much lighter than later ones; and the under-rated L78 375 hp 396 ( The L78 was intially rated at 425 hp in the 1965 Corvette. Later models in the Chevelle line were-down-rated for insurance purposes, but the engine was the same. )  had everything-heads, cam carb and intake that the mighty 450 hps LS6 454 had. Now if your a Ford Guy the shoe is on the other foot. A '72 Mustang has a 351C as the largest engine. A 1969 or 1970 model can use a 428.  We could go on for days with various examples but you get the idea. Anyhow here's some good tips that work, regardless of make or model. # 1. Always build the lightest car that you can. It's simple power-to-weight ratio. All other things being equal-a 3,000 lb car with a 300 hp engine will run just as fast as a 4,000 lb car with a 400 hp engine. However-a 300 hp engine is a lot easier and cheaper to build than a 400 hp one.  So build a Nova instead of a Chevelle. A Duster or Dart instead of a Charger or Road Runner. A Maverick instead of a Torino.  # 2. Always build the biggest engine you can afford. For example a 350 Chevy makes way more power and torque than a 305, yet costs no more to buy or build. In fact-since I have seen stroker rotating assemblys that have the crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings and an oil pump as low as $399-it really doesn't cost any more to build a 383!  On the other hand if you have a good 400 Pontiac or 383 Chrysler or 396 / 402 Chevy-don't throw it away and then spend a mint buying and building a junk 440, or 454 or 455.  The key word is "afford." # 3. Don't forget mechanical advantage. The strongest engine in the world will be a dog if it's saddled with 2.56:1 gears. Run the gear that will give you the best 1/4 mile time. On a solid-lifter, high-winding 302 '69 Z/28-4.56:1s would rock. On a hydraulic cammed 350 hp 396 Chevelle-some 3.73:1s would be better-4.56:1s would cause it to run out of rpm before the end of the 1/4!!  # 4. Traction. All the power in the world doesn't do you any good if you can't put it to the ground. Excessive wheelspin loses more races than any other factor. Check your class rules; some allow traction bars or pinion snubbers, some don't. You can also play with tire size and tire pressure. Most classes allow sticky street tires like Mickey Thompson or M&H, some allow drag radials, some don't. Maybe next time we;ll talk  about a specificic car and how to really fine-tune everything. Mastermind      

Iron fists, velvet gloves revisited.....

I get a lot of people asking me how can they get serious power from their musclecar and look stock. It can be done, it just takes a little ingenuity. While individual engine lines have nuances that will vary-there are some things that will work across the board regardless of which kind of engine your building. I'll stick to those for this discussion. # 1. Increase displacement. The old saying "There's no substitute for cubic inches, except cubic dollars" is still true. All other things being equal, the larger engine will always make more hp and torque. In some cases it's a no-brainer engine swap-i.e.-swap your 305 Chevy for a 350, or your 307 Olds for a 350 or 403. In others a stroker crank / rotating assembly is the way to go. There are kits to turn a 350 Chevy into a 383, a 302 Ford into a 347, a 351W into a 392, a 360 Chrysler into a 408. That's just the small-blocks. There's kits to turn a 400 Pontiac into a 428 or 455,a 400 Mopar into a 451, a 440 into a 505. There's kits to turn 454 Chevys into a 496. Whether your combo is mild or wild, extra cubes mean extra power. #2. Camshaft. Since no one can possibly know what cam your running ( a lumpy idle will tell the practiced ear it's not stock ) a cam swap is a great "stealth" modification. Larger engines can tolerate more "cam" than smaller ones because usually your trading some bottom-end and mid-range torque for top-end rush. The larger engine having more torque to start with-won't notice the loss as much. For example if you have a 455 Pontiac that has 480 lbs of torque at 2,700 rpm-and your "hot" cam causes it to lose 30 lbs ft at low rpm-guess what? It still has 450 lbs of tire-boiling torque, and you won't notice the supposed "loss". You will notice the big "kick" from about 3,000 rpm on up however! Conversely if you had a late-'70's 350 Chevy that had 280 lbs of torque-and you dropped 30 lbs ft off-idle-you'd definitely notice that!  Manual transmission cars can also tolerate more "cam" than automatics because idle speed isn't as important and the driver can launch at whatever rpm he desires by manipulating the clutch. Using the small-block Chevy as an example-the old standby-the "350 hp 327 Corvette" cam. This cam would ruin a 305. It works pretty damn good in a 327 with a 4-speed and 3.73:1 gears, better in a 350 with 3.23:1s or stiffer either stick or automatic, provided you have a 2,000 rpm+ torque converter, and is really sweet in a 383 / 400 regardless of transmission or gearing. In a 400-this cam will rock even with an automatic, a stock converter and 3.08:1 gears. See what I'm saying?  Consult the cam manufacturer for your engine line. Obviously a cam that's considered "mild" in a 460 Ford would be horrible in a 302 or 351. One that's "super-hot" in a 318 Chrysler will purr like a kitten in a 440. Those are broad strokes-but you get the idea. With small-blocks and cars with automatic transmissions it's better to err on the side of caution.  # 3. Induction. Since stock-class drag racers and circle track racers deal with this-many classes require running a "stock" iron intake manifold, there are several companies that offer ported iron manifolds that will give you a gain of 25 hp and 30 lbs ft of torque. GMPP sells an exact replica of the original Z/28 / LT1 manifold that's good from idle to 7,200 rpm-in cast iron. Some engine lines-Pontiacs and big-block Mopars built prior to '75-have excellent manifolds from the factory. A little port matching to the gasket helps a lot. You can also use an Edelbrock or Holley or Weiand aluminum intake and paint it the factory color. This isn't as stealthy as the iron ones, but the casual observer won't notice. The other thing you can improve on is carburation. For example the Carter AVS that came on most 383 / 440 Mopars only flowed about 585 cfm. They had very crisp throttle response and a strong mid-range-a smaller carb will do that. But they were limited on the top-end. Think-a 440 V8 with a 585 cfm carb is like a 250 lb NFL running back trying to run while breathing through a straw. Fortunately Edelbrock has their excellent 800 cfm Thunder AVS models that would be just the ticket. Ditto for some other cars-pre-'67 Pontiacs and Chevys-early Fords,-many had Carter AFBs that flowed 500 or 625 cfm. Edelbrock's "Performer" line of carbs is an exact copy of the AFB with some modern improvements and are available in 500, 600 ( great for dual-quad applications ) 750 and 800 cfm version. I don't need to tell you that a 409 Chevy or 421 Pontiac will run much better with a 750 / 800 cfm carb than it will a 500 or a 625! The same goes for Holleys. Most concurs shows now allow carbs to be the original "type". Ok-get rid of the 50 year old 735 Holley on your 428CJ and replace with a 780 or an 850. Who's going to look at the casting numbers on your carb?  # 4. Exhaust. Here's where you have to make a big decision. A good set of headers and dual exhausts can be worth as much as 50-70 hp. Super Chevy did a test on a pristine LS6 Chevelle. With stock manifolds it pulled 380 hp on the dyno. ( A little off from the factory 450 hp rating; but back then pre-1972- gross ratings were done with no accessories. The lower net ratings used from 1972 on are more accurate. ) With headers it pulled 451 hp. A gain of 71 hp! And that was the first run. They hadn't yet adjusted the carb jetting to compensate for the opened up exhaust or played with ignition timing or distributor advance curve. With a little tuning they might have gotten an even bigger gain, but the point was made. Personally I would put headers on any car or truck I own where it's feasible. The gain in hp and torque, and usually a small bump-2-3 mpg in fuel economy is too good to pass up. But if you want the total "Stealth" "Stock" look-there are companies that sell ported and extrude-honed iron exhaust manifolds-again luckily for you-catering to the racing classes that require iron exhaust manifolds. Or any competent machine shop could do the ones off your engine. Even with iron manifolds-using 2 1/2 inch pipes, an X-pipe or balance tube and low-restriction mufflers can add as much as 30 hp. # 5. Mechanical advantage. Most '70's cars have salt-flats gearing like 2.73:1. Switching to something in the 3.23:1 to 3.73:1 range will give you a HUGE improvement in 0-60 and 1/4 mile time without hurting freeway cruising rpm or drivability too much. Most automatic cars can use a little more stall speed on the torque converter. Don't go crazy-chances are your engine isn't wild enough to warrant a 4,000 rpm converter and 4.56:1 gears-but a converter with 2,000-2,300 rpm stall speed will work wonders for most applications. # 6. Traction. Most musclecars-especially big-block cars can use larger than stock tires and could use some traction aids. A Pinion snubber is good for leaf-spring cars and Lakewood, Competition Engineering and other companies make bolt-on traction bars for leaf and coil-spring suspensions. You can see traction bars-but they help immensely. As for tires BFG, M&H, Mickey Thompson-all offer drag radials and sticky street tires that are DOT-legal. Hope this helps you "sleeper" builders out!  Mastermind                

Some rare birds that can be bargains...

It's funny that some people want something unique, but then don't want to pay a premium price for it. I've had several people of late ask me to recommend some unique, cool musclecars that can be bought at reasonable or even cheap prices. Some of these will be cheap, some not, but they are all worth taking a look at if you want that model car. # 1. 1980 Z/28 Camaro. For this one year only you could get a 350 V8 backed by a T10 4-speed with a 3.44:1 1st gear and a 2.28:1 2nd, and a 3.08:1 positraction rear end. This combo had better acceleration and higher top speed and better gas mileage than the '77-79 models which had a 2.64:1 low gear, a 1.75:1 2nd and a 3.73:1 rear end. Automatics had a 3.42:1 rear axle which was a good compromise between jackrabbit starts and easy freeway cruising. This year also marked the return of "Cowl Induction" a vacuum operated hood scoop that opened under full-throttle acceleration and sounded cool. It also bumped power up 10 hp to 190 on the workhorse L48 350.  For some strange reason-for '81 if you wanted a 4-speed Z/28 you were stuck with a 305 that wheezed out 145 hp. You could still get a 350 with an automatic. And Canadian models still got the 350 / 4-speed combo. It wasn't emission laws-because in both 1980 and '81 you could still get a 350 / 4-speed combo in the Corvette. ( The 190 hp L48. The 230 hp L82 was only available with a TH350 ).  Dynamite if you can find one. # 2. 1982 Corvette. This one year only offered the C3 body that had been around since 1968 with the "Cross-Fire" Injected 350 and 4-speed automatic that was going to power the all-new '84 'Vette. They were decent performers for the time-15 second 1/4 mile times and 7 second 0-60 times. They make fun weekend cruisers and there is a million ways to build power into a small-block Chevy if you want more oomph. # 3. 1984 Corvette. These featured the all-new C4  with the "Cross-Fire" injected 350. Most had the TH700R4 4-speed automatic, but some had the "4+3" which was a T10 4-speed manual coupled with an electric overdrive that could be engaged in 2nd.3rd and 4th, effectively giving you 7 gears. It was a pretty trick setup that worked really well. 'Vette collectors snub these cars in favor of the '85-91 "Tuned Port Injected" models which keeps prices low. I have seen '84 models on used car lots as low as $2995. # 4. 1984-86 Ford Mustang SVO. These had Recaro seats, upgraded suspension, 50 series tires on 16" wheels, 4-wheel disc brakes, and a Turbocharged 4-cylinder engine that put out 175-205 hp depending on year. They didn't sell well when new because the "5.0" V8 models were both cheaper and faster. Their still a cool ride if you can find one, and prices have dropped considerably over the years. # 5. 1987-92 Lincoln MKVII LSC. Often called a "5.0" Mustang in a tuxedo, these featured Recaro seats, 4-wheel disc brakes, 16" wheels with 50 series tires, and the 225 hp 302 out of the Mustang GT backed by a 4-speed automatic and a 3.27:1 rear axle. Any speed parts that fit a Fox Mustang will fit these so there's a ton of potential.  #6. 1989 20th Anniversary Pontiac Trans-Am. These had the vaunted 3.8 liter Turbocharged V6 out of the now-defunct Buick Grand National. Grossly Under-rated at 250 hp and 355 lbs ft of torque, these were much quicker than the LB9 and L98 305 and 350 V8 models. And since the V6 was lighter than the V8s, the already stellar handling of the WS6 T/A was further improved. These bring a King's Ransom, but their worth it. I honestly don't know why Pontiac didn't make this the standard powertrain for the T/A. Probably because it would have ruined Corvette sales.  # 6. 1989-95 Ford Thunderbird SC. The "SC" stood for "Super Coupe" which is accurate. These cars had 4-wheel disc brakes, 50 series tires on 16" wheels, and a Supercharged 3.8 liter V6 that put out 210 -230 hp and 315-330 lbs of torque depending on year. 5-speed manual and 4-speed automatics were the transmissions. They were quick-6 second 0-60 times and 15 second 1/4s, with a 140 mph top speed. However-hot-rodders have made 400 hp reliably by turning up the boost and have run 11 second 1/4 mile times in the buff magazines. If you can't find one of these, from '91-95 the 302 out of the "5.0" Mustang was available, and their's speed parts galore for those. Dynamite if you can find one.  # 7. 2005-2009 Cadillac XLR-V. These were a racy, two-seat coupe based on the Corvette chassis and powered by a Supercharged 4.6 liter Northstar V8. They made a tire frying 443 hp and did 0-60 in 4.6 seconds and the 1/4 in 13 flat. Top speed was electronically limited to 155 mph. These are definitely Jules' wallet from "Pulp Fiction"-the one that says "Bad Mother$%er" on it.  The downside is they cost about 100 grand when they were new, so they won't be cheap. Now there not any more pricey than a same-year Corvette, but are much cooler if your willing to step up.  Like the Ferarri salesman told Nicolas Cage in "Gone in 60 seconds" if you were driving any one of these-"You wouldn't be an asshole sir, you'd be a conissuer".  Mastermind