More advice on "Weirdos!"

I want to clarify what I meant in the last post. I talked about cars with weird options and maybe gave the impression that you shouldn't buy them. What I meant was don't pay top dollar for something weird-i.e.-a 442 "Turnpike Special" with a 265 hp 2bbl 400 Olds engine, an automatic and 2.93 rear end is not worth anywhere near what a W30, 4-speed 3.91 geared model is, even though they may be equally rare! In 1980-81 because of smog laws there were actually a few Corvettes built with 305s instead of 350s. Just because there's fewer of them than there are L88 427 models, doesn't make them worth anywhere near what an L88 is worth!!  Get the picture? That aside, if you run across one of these "Factory Freaks" and the price is reasonable-then by all means buy it. I know two people who found happiness doing this. One guy found a 1967 GTO with the two-barrel step down engine. For some reason this car also had factory air, and the optional Hurst Dual / Gate shifter and console for the TH400. ( Why do you need a ratchet shifter with a 2bbl engine?)  He put a 4bbl carb and intake on it as well as headers and a cam, and he's happy. The other guy ran across a 1970 Monte Carlo with a 350 and a factory 4-speed. ( This was an option, not many were sold). He replaced the balky Muncie shifter with a Hurst Competition Plus, and built a stout 350, and painted it like Junior Johnson's Nascar racer. "But it's rare and you ruined it!" Some people wail. I have to agree with the guy-He said-"If it was an SS454 with a 4-speed, I'd have restored it dead-stock concours style because it might be worth a lot if I ever wanted to sell it."  "But 350 Montes are the proverbial dime a dozen, and very few people care if it has a 4-speed, and not enough to pay any real money for it." "I only bought it because it was a steal."  That's the attitude to have. I know a guy who bought a six-cylinder, 3-speed 1969 Camaro at an auction for $900. A mild 350 and a saginaw 4-speed and some paint later, everyone "Oohs" and "Aahs" over his "Z/28".  Total cost-$3,500!!  Yeah it's a fake, but try to touch even an engineless,basket-case "Real" '69 Z/28 for $3,500!!  See what I'm saying?  A "Freak" may be a decent buy, but be careful. Mastermind         

Don't pay a premium price for a "Weirdo"......

You have to realize that back in the 1960s and 70s the car business was very similar to what it is now. Dealers stocked what they thought they could sell the easiest. This is why there are more base engine models than premium ones. Right now a Base model Corvette has 430 hp ( more than enough) and the ZR1 has 638. A base model 'Vette stickers for about 50K. A ZR1 is 100K. Guess what? Although 50 grand isn't chump change, when you consider that a loaded Honda Accord or Toyota Camry is over 30 large, that's a deal for a vehicle that offers the 'Vette's performance. Unless you double the price-911 Turbo, Nissan GT-R, the Base 'Vette is MC Hammer- "Can't Touch This". And not many people can afford 100 grand for a car. Their going to sell a lot more base models than they are ZR1s. 30 years from now ZR1s are going to be rare and pricey! Back in the day, when a 383 Road Runner started at $2,800-not many people spent an additional $1800 on a Hemi, which required a 4-speed or a Torqueflite, a Dana 60 rear, and other "mandatory" options that drove the price up to nearly $5,000. Think about it-a 2011 412 hp Mustang GT starts about 29 grand. Are you going to go buy one of those and then spend 50K for a Shelby with the 540 hp blower motor? Probably not.  That's why there's way more 383 Road Runners and Chargers than there are Hemis!  And just like now when they show "Price Leaders" -A 2011 Camaro for 23 grand for instance-is a V6 model not an LS3. Don't fall into the trap of paying big dollars for something just because it's rare. A friend of mine who restored British cars told me once-"A rare Turd is still a Turd."  Applying this to musclecars means two-speed automatics and 3-speed sticks, two-barrel or step-down engines,radio or heater-delete cars, bucket seat, column shifted automatics, or 4-speed bench seat cars etc, aren't collectible, their just weird and no one but the guy selling it thinks it's cool.  A GTO with a 3 speed stick and drum brakes or a 442 with a two-barrel carbed 400 isn't worth anything other than the fact that it may be a decent GTO or 442 body. Certainly it wouldn't be worth what a 4-speed, disc-braked, more common car would. Especially avoid step-down engines. A loaded SS Chevelle with a 350 is not worth as much as a strippy SS396 or SS454. A Formula Firebird with a 301 and a 4-speed isn't worth as much as a 400 / automatic model. No matter how pristine a 318 Charger is, it's still a 318.  You'll have to swap engines to get any real performance out of it.  I mean do you want a badass-looking car that can't outrun a new Honda Accord from a light?  Unless the price is really low and you plan on hot-rodding it, avoid "Old-People" survivors. You know what I'm talking about-grandma bought a 1968 Chevelle brand-new, only drove it to church and after she died her kids or grandkids are selling it.  Yes, it's never been wrecked, and it's original and rust-free, but who cares about a bench-seat, two-door post, drum-braked, 307 / Powerglide Malibu?  Other than the fact that it's a clean 2dr Chevelle body, what is it really worth? If they were close to the same price, whether I wanted a driver or to hot rod it-  I'd rather find a nice '71 hardtop with a 350 / TH350 powertrain, front disc brakes, and maybe factory air, that wasn't "One-owner" original!  See what I mean?  And weird special orders are just weird. I've seen people that are proud of a Yellow Firebird with Red interior that they can prove is original. Or the Monte Carlo with a six-cylinder and a 3-on the tree stick. Another thing to avoid is 4-door models. It's not like today-where Cadillac offers the 556 hp motor in a CTS sedan as well as the coupe, or BMW offering a 4-door M3.  Even if it has a 455, no one wants a 4-door Pontiac LeMans. Ditto for 4-door Malibus with a Rat, or 4-door Mopars with a 440. The only thing their good for is they make good parts cars for people restoring the 2 door models!  I mean are you going to paint a 4-door Coronet like a Super Bee or a 4-door LeMans like a Judge?  I don't think so!  Finally beware of crap that shysters have cobbled up to try and make a quick buck. For example-a 1973 Challenger with a 383-the only engines available that year were the 318 and 340. Pontiac never built a LeMans based GTO with a 350. They were all 389 cubes or more.  If you don't know, ask someone who does before you spend your money.  Mastermind                  

More "Rodney Dangerfields" that are good buys!

A few days ago we touched on cars that were treated like Rodney Dangerfield ("No Respect") but were still good buys for the bargain-hunting musclecar buyer. Here's a few more. # 1. 1971-73 Mercury Cougar. People will fight with machetes for a clean 1967-70 Cougar, but these are overlooked, bringing way less money. Even a 71-73 Mustang will bring way more money than these, yet their basically the same car. The Cougar has always been to the Mustang what the Firebird is to the Camaro; the better buy of the two. While the base engine in a Mustang these years was a 200 or 250 inch six, the standard engine in a Cougar was a 302 V8, with the mighty 351C optional, and most of them were optioned this way. Cougars also usually have upgraded interiors, full guages,factory air, front disc brakes, etc. If you can't afford a Mustang, or just want something unique these last of the muscle cougars (1974-76 models are based on the heavier and uglier Lincoln MKIV platform ) might be the way to go. # 2. 1973-77 Pontiac "A" body. This includes the Gran Prix, LeMans, LeMans Sport, and Grand Am models. While 454 Malibus and Monte Carlos, and 455 Cutlasses and Regals of this vintage are scarce and overpriced-95% of these have 350 inchers under the hood- the Pontiacs are a steal. Most have the mighty 400 as standard equipment,and a lot of 455 models are out there. The Pontiacs also had wrist-thick front and rear sway bars ( "Radial Tuned Suspension" ) and upgraded interiors. Any aftermarket suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Monte Carlo also fit these cars. # 3. 1975-79 GM "X" Body. This includes Novas, Venturas, Omegas, and Apollos. For some reason people will pay way more for a 1968-74 model than they will for these. I guess it's the "Classic" bodystyle. From a car-builder standpoint I find that funny because the older models were often strippy, six-cylinders models with 4-wheel drum brakes and no power steering. The later ones had front disc brakes and power steering standard, and most of them were V8 models. Regardless of nameplate, because of smog laws and GM playing musical engines in the late '70's a lot these will have small-block Chevys under the hood; which if anything, is a plus factor. Many suspension or brake upgrades that fit a Camaro also fit these cars so you could build a drag-racer or a Porsche-hunting G-machine if you wanted. # 4. 1979, 1982-86 Mercury Capri. That's not a typo; I said Capri. In these years a Capri was a Mustang clone, and you could get a 302 V8. 1979 and 82 models have a 2bbl carb ( an easy fix ) and either a 4-speed stick or three-speed auto. 1983-86 models have a 4bbl and a 5-speed, or a 4-speed automatic. Anything that fits a Fox Mustang fits these cars, so your performance potential is virtually unlimited, yet they are way cheaper than a same-year Mustang, which are reasonable to begin with!  # 5. 1982 Z/28 Camaro / Firebird Trans-Am. This was the first year of the new bodystyle-( The previous ran from 1970-81 ) that lasted until 1992. The only engines were a carburated 305, or a Cross-Fire injected 305, and the only transmissions were a 4-speed stick or three-speed automatic, and the Cross-Fire injection wasn't available with a stick. These cars are snubbed by enthusiasts in favor of the 1983 and later 5-speed stick and 4-speed automatic versions with the carburated L69 "H.O." 305 or 1985 and later LB9 Tuned Port Injected models. However, they came standard with the good suspension, posi rear ends, 4-wheel disc brakes were optional, and there are a million ways to build power into a small-block Chevy. # 6. 1984 Corvette. The first year of the C4 bodystyle and the only year of the Cross-fire injected 350 in this body. Most were 4-speed automatics, but there are a few with the "4+3" stick shift with overdrive in the top 3 gears. These cars are snubbed by 'Vette collectors in favor of the 1985 and later TPI L98 and LT1 models, which makes these a screaming bargain. I have seen these on used car lots as low as $2995! And again, there is a myriad of aftermarket equipment. Mastermind         

Simple tips to get maximum performance....even if the car is bone stock!

A lot of people tell me that their happy with their musclecar, and they don't want to modify it, but they wish it would run better.  Here's the solution to this problem.  # 1. Do a compression test or a cylinder leakdown test. The compression should be close to the same on all cylinders. Even an 8:1 "smog" motor will have at least 120-130 lbs per cylinder. Higher compression engines will register 150 lbs or more, but they should be pretty even-within 5-10 lbs of each other. If one cylinder registers 80-90 lbs, you've got a problem-possibly bad rings or a blown head gasket. You'd be surprised how many musclecars are running around on 7 cylinders.  # 2. No high rpm power. I'm not talking 7 grand; many cars don't have the valvetrain or bottom end for that. But even a 318 Dodge with a two-barrel will rev to 5,000 rpm or so.    If your musclecar starts popping above 3,500 rpm, or won't rev over 4,000 or 4,500 rpm, then you could have a flat cam, or bad valvesprings or a lot of timing chain slop. You'd be amazed at the number of cars I see with $5,000 paint jobs, that can't pull 5,000 rpm in low gear.  # 3. Even if the engine is in good shape, the most common problem is bad tuning. Even on a bone stock engine, bad tuning can cost you as much as 50 hp. I see it everyday-the timing is way too slow or way advanced, the vacuum advance is unplugged or inoperable, the plug wires are bad, the points are closing up, the carburator is way too rich or way too lean, or the throttle doesn't open all the way. Make sure the car is tuned right-you'd be amazed what a new set of points and condenser ( set to the proper gap) distributor cap, rotor and plugs and wires will do, along with the timing set properly. Make sure the throttle is opening fully and that the linkage isn't sticking, If the float is sinking, or the carb isn't working properly put it in a box if it's numbers-matching, otherwise trash it and buy a new one. Don't be "Bo Duke" and tune it "By ear". Find a shop that has a distributor machine and an infrared exhaust analyzer and pay them to do it right. You'll be amazed at the power increase of your own car, when all they did was set it up right. # 4. Exhaust. You'be amazed at the cars running around with smashed up, or restrictive exhaust systems. Even if your running stock iron exhaust manifolds, a good flowing dual exhaust system can add as much as 30 or 40 hp. Further if your car was built after 1975 and has one or two catalytic converters and the car has more than 100,000 miles on it, the converter(s) could be stopped up.  Unless the converter starts glowing red, or the car won't run at all, you won't know this. But you could be losing a substantial amount of power and not realize it. A simple test- disconnect the converter and drive the car. If the car runs way smoother and faster-then the converter is stopped up and needs to be replaced. If all you notice is more exhaust noise, but the car doesn't run any different, then the converter is working ok.  # 5. Transmission. If you have an automatic you could be losing a lot of performance from slippage or sloppy shifting. Change the fluid at least every two years or 25,000 miles. And I mean have it flushed at a shop-dropping the pan and adding 4 qts of clean fluid to 8 qts of dirty fluid means you have 12 qts of dirty fluid as soon as you start the engine. Even if your not a mechanic most shops will install a B&M or TranGo shift kit for a reasonable fee, and make sure the vacuum modulator and the kickdown cable is hooked up and working properly.  If you have a stick, make sure the clutch isn't slipping or chattering, and that the shift linkage isn't binding up.  You'd be amazed at the cars that are losing tons of performance from one or more of these problems!!  Mastermind          

Some "Rodney Dangerfields" that are good bargains

Comedian Rodney Dangerfield always griped about how he got "No Respect" from his wife and kids, employers and the world in general. There are musclecars that are treated like Rodney, and sometimes for weird reasons. These are often great buys, because people snub them for other cars, or even another model year of the same car. # 1. 1970 Dodge Super Bee. These cars still had a 383 Magnum, a 3 or 4-speed stick or a Torqueflite, with the 440 Six-pack and Hemi optional. However Mopar collectors will pay more for a 68-69 model, or a Charger based 71 model. It's not any power difference, because unlike GM, that did it in '71, Chrysler didn't lower compression ratios until 1972. Maybe it's the one-year only large chrome bumper in the front. Whatever the reason, obviously Hemi and Six Pack versions are pricey, but 383 models are an absolute steal compared to a Charger or Road Runner or even another model year Bee. # 2. 1971-72 Pontiac GTO. These cars are a steal if you want a Goat. They have the ultra-popular 68-72 GM "A" body styling, and the 400 was still standard with the 455HO optional. Yet although only 10,000 were built in '71 and only 5,807 in '72, Pontiac enthusiasts will pay way more for a 1970 model-( 40,149 built) or a 1968-69 model ( 87,000 and 72,229 built respectively ). Honestly- the power difference of the lower-compression engines isn't that much-not enough to justify the price difference. But lucky for you, the potential buyer. # 3. 1973-74 Plymouth Road Runner. A lot of people seem to like the 1968-70 and 1971-72 model's styling better, but these cars are still good-looking, and largely overlooked even by Mopar fans. Even Chargers of these years bring more money-maybe because of Richard Petty's Nascar success in one. Whatever the reason-you can save many thousands by considering one of these. The ones to look for are the 340,360, 400 and 440 versions. The 318 models make nice drivers, but are a little underpowered. # 4. 1979 Pontiac Trans-Am. Of the 117,000 plus T/A's sold in 1979, only 10,000 were 400 Pontiac / 4-speed models. There were a few 301 models built with a 4-speed or an automatic. The majority of the rest had a 403 Olds engine and a TH350. For this reason they are snubbed by Pontiac collectors who want a "Real" 400 Pontiac-which most 1978 and earlier models had. However the 403 had the same amount of torque as the 400 Pontiacs and with an automatic and the standard salts-flat gearing,there really wasn't a noticeable performance difference. They were, and are great drivers. And, anything that fits a 350 Olds will fit these engines-Edelbrock intakes,cams,headers, etc. If you have a WS6 model with 3.23 gears they run pretty damn good. The others with a 2.41 or 2.56 ratio will benefit from changing to a 3.23 or 3.42. If your on a tight budget and want a "Bandit" style T/A this might be the way to go. # 5. 1983 Z/28 Camaro / Pontiac Trans-Am with "Cross-Fire" injection. This was the only year that Cross-Fire Injection and a 4-speed automatic was offered. ( 1982 models had a 3-speed TH250 ). These cars are snubbed in favor of the 5-speed stick / L69 carburated models or the 1985 and later Tuned Port Injected / automatic models. In stock trim these run pretty damn good for only being a 305. However, for a mechanically inclined guy-these could be fun. By using a Hypertech Corvette PROM chip, and using larger Remanufactured 454 truck throttle bodies this cool looking, awesome sounding "Cross-Ram" system can feed a healthy 350 or 383 stroker, which would literally bolt in place of the 305. # 6. 1982 "5.0" Mustang GT. These cars have a 302 with a 2bbl carb and a 4-speed stick. For this reason they are snubbed by Ford guys in favor of the 1983 and later 4bbl / 5-speed models. However, a carb and intake is an easy swap, and you can buy these dirt-cheap.  Mastermind              

Chevy's flagship muscle car

In the late '50's and early '60's performance cars were all full size. The 389 inch Pontiacs, 413 Mopars, and 406 Fords had more power than the 348 Chevys. The 409 was introduced to defend Chevrolet's honor. The Impala was the top of the line, and the "SS" package included an upgraded bucket seat interior heavy-duty suspension and special "SS" badging and hubcaps. Mainly because of NASCAR racing, but also because of stock class drag racing, the horsepower race was on. The fire-breathing 421 Pontiacs of Smokey Yunick and Fireball Roberts dominated. This caused Chevy and Ford to retaliate. The "Daytona Mystery Motor" that Chevy ran at the 1963 Daytona 500 became the Mark IV-i.e. modern Rat motor. Ford introduced the 427. Then in late 1963 the famous GM ban on racing came down. We all know the story of the GTO, and the competitors it spawned. However a lot of people still wanted full-size muscle. The 409 was discontinued in early 1965, replaced by the 396. The 396's much more modern "Porcupine" head design breathed way better than the old 348/409 "W" motors. While a 4-speed was a popular option, in 1965 the Turbo 400 debuted which was a 3 speed automatic that was light-years ahead of the old two-speed Powerglide in terms of performance. Many people consider the 1965 Impala one of the best-looking cars ever made. In 1966 they didn't change much, except the besides the 396, you could also get a 427 inch engine! Zora-Arkus Duntov, Chief Corvette engineer, deadpanned when the press asked if the 'Vette really needed more power-"More power? Heavens no!" "Boring out the block achieves a useful weight savings." In 1967 the Impala got an all-new fastback body, and disc brakes were optional, and more luxury options than ever. 75,600 "SS" models were sold, but only a couple thousand had the vaunted 427. The body was carried over for 1968, but sales dropped to 38,200-a 50% drop. Clearly, performance buyers were flocking to the intermediates-The GTO, SS Chevelle, Plymouth Road Runner, etc-all of which outsold the Impala SS by a wide margin. Pontiac had killed the Catalina 2+2-which the SS package had been invented to compete with-in 1967. The SS package soldiered on for one more year, but 1969 sales were even more dismal-only around 2,000 SS427s were sold. Hot Rodders bought Chevelles and Camaros, and luxury buyers bought Caprices ( a more luxurious Impala trim option). It was clearly a car without a market, and the option wasn't offered in 1970. However, from 1963-69 over 300,000 units were sold and they were one of the coolest "Big" cars ever made. They made a mini-comeback in 1994 when the name was resurrected and an LT1 'Vette motor was stuffed in a cop car Impala. They were popular with the buff magazines and buyers, but were discontinued when Chevy changed the bodystyle in 1998. These bring a King's Ransom today, but in my mind they just don't have the charm of the 1960's models. 409 and 427 models are pricey, but you can still get a good buy on a 327 powered model. Mastermind 

Another Junkyard Dog Idea......

A friend suggested I look at an 1980-81 "Turbo" Trans-Am or Formula Firebird. Obviously were not going to try to build a 301 Turbo; if GM couldn't make it work, I'm not going to try to. However, my friend pointed out that crappy, underpowered engine nothwithstanding, these cars had WS6 suspension, a Posi rear end,4-wheel disc brakes, and the "Turbo" hood bulge would allow more induction system clearance than the traditional "Shaker".  And their cheap because everyone wants the '79 and earlier 400 or 455 inch versions. There are three ways to go with this-one the obvious-swap the 301 for a larger Pontiac engine. ( I have a 428 ) This would be pretty easy.  Two-find a Supercharged 231 V6 out of a wrecked Bonneville SSEI or Buick Riviera. These were under-rated at 240 hp, and changing the pulleys to up the boost could easily net another 100-150 hp. Add a 150 hp shot of nitrous, and we've have some serious speed for low bucks. The third would be swap in a small-block Chevy. ( I have a roller-cammed Vortec 350 out of a 1997 Van, and I have a 355hp ZZ4 crate engine.) I'd have to get a Chevy bolt-pattern TH350, but that's not hard. Now the question remains-'70's Ventura, 50s gasser, or Disco-era T/A?  Mastermind   

Project Junkyard dog redux?

I haven't been able to locate a decent Pontiac Ventura for a reasonable price yet. I did come across a '57 Pontiac Starcheif for sale for $500 the other day. I went to look at it, and the body was in good shape, but the guy had sold it to someone about 15 minutes before I got there!!  I bring this up because I thought this might be a good project. Build a '60s style-gasser like you used to see in magazines-radiused fenderwells, straight front axle,-complete badass like the '55 Chevy in "Two-Lane Blacktop". Except instead of using a '55-57 Chevy-( People want 8 grand for engineless rustbuckets ) I'd use a '55-58 Pontiac or Olds. I have a 428 Pontiac engine, and a 455 Olds engine, and a BOP bolt-pattern Turbo 400 in my garage. I have an Offenhauser Dual Quad intake for a Pontiac, and I know a guy that has a Tri-Power setup for a Big-block Olds. This might be cool and unique. I'm still pitching the "Junkyard Dog"  idea to a couple magazines. If you think its a good idea then write or e-mail John Hunkins at Popular Hot Rodding, or David Freiburger at Hot Rod and let them know. If I get enough interest, they'll serialize the build in a couple issues and maybe do a drag test when it's done. (The Ventura was everyone's overwhelming favorite, unless the '50s Gasser beats it out.) So start writing and make this project a reality!  Mastermind     

It's Ok to "Run what you Brung!"

I've had a few people voice confusion over my advice on which engines to use in their musclecar projects, so I thought I'd clear things up. # 1. Obviously, unless your Camaro, Firebird, Mustang, Challenger, etc is a six-cylinder model that you bought with an engine swap in mind, the easiest and least expensive way is to use the engine that came in the car. For example, there's nothing wrong with a 350 Pontiac; They run as good or better than a 350 Chevy in stock trim, and respond well to the old hot-rod tricks-intake,exhaust,cam etc. However, if the car is missing the original engine, or needs to be replaced anyway-i.e.-a cracked block,or other damage- a 400 costs no more to buy or build, and either stock or modified makes substantially more power with the same equipment. Ditto for a 318 Chrysler-their bulletproof-in fact the 318 is Chrysler's lowest-warranty claim engine in history. In a light car-Duster, Dart etc-they can really run. But in a heavier car like a Charger or Road Runner or again-if the engine needs to replaced, be it a junkyard engine or a "Remanufactured" parts-house long block, the 360 costs no more to buy or build but makes substantially more power and torque with the same equipment. That's all I was saying. # 2. I said the 454 Chevy offered the most bang for the buck of all the big-block Chevys. This is true. If you buy a new GM crate motor the 454HO has 425 hp and 500 lbs ft of torque and retails for $5995. The 500 hp, 502 Deluxe retails for $8995. 3 grand for 75 hp??!!  Hello? You can get 75 extra hp out of a Rat motor for a lot less than 3 grand!!!  And yes, a 454 will make more power than a 396, all other things being equal. And because they were used in trucks until the late '90's they are a lot easier to find in junkyards and usually cheaper to buy than a 396/402/427 which is only sought after by people restoring a pre-1972 SS Chevelle, Impala, Camaro,Nova or Corvette and are usually overpriced, if you can find one for sale at all. That's what I meant.  However-that aside-If you buy a Chevy and it has a 396/402/427 under the hood, by all means use it!!  # 3. Remember "Biggest Motor you can Afford?"  By afford I mean again-the most bang for the buck. Here's a few examples. Let's say you have a 1970 Olds Cutlass with a 350 V8. You have $2,000 to spend on getting some extra power. Adding an Edelbrock Performer intake and matching cam, a set of headers and dual exhausts, a slightly higher than stock stall speed converter and swapping the 2.73 gears for 3.55s will make the car run a lot faster than buying a stock, maybe in need of a rebuild, used 455 for the same 2k. The same goes if you have a 1969 Mustang with a 302. Adding a performance Intake, exhaust, cam, gears, etc will give a great performance increase and cost less and be a lot less hassle than trying to buy, build and install a 351W or 351C.  On the other hand, if you buy a Camaro with a 305,unless your stone broke, the first thing I would do is start looking for a 350. The reason is 350's are the proverbial dime a dozen, and a stock 350 will run away from an identical vehicle with a 305. Modified, the gap really widens. You can build a 450 hp 350 Chevy so cheap and easy it's not funny. No matter how much money you have, you'd be very hard pressed to get 450 hp out of a 305, and it still wouldn't have the torque and drivability of the 350. That's what I was saying. # 4. "Bang for the Buck" on every part. People were confused on whether or not they should buy aftermarket heads. It depends on the situation. Here's two good examples. # 1. Your rebuilding a small-block Chevy. The short block is in excellent shape and your just freshening it with rings and bearings and an oil pump, but the valve guides are shot and you have a blown head gasket. You can buy a complete brand-new set of Vortec heads from GMPP for $650 that will add 40 hp. Most machine shops would charge $500-600 to redo your old heads, and they won't offer the power boost of the Vortecs. You'll need a Vortec-style intake, but Edelbrock and Weiand sell them for about $200, and chances are you were going to put an aftermarket intake on the engine anyway! In this case, the aftermarket heads are a screaming deal, and you'd be stupid to do anything else. # 2. You have a late-'70's Trans-Am with an L78 400 Pontiac engine. Edelbrock aluminum heads are great, but they cost $1995 per pair for Pontiacs. For 2 grand you could get a carb and intake, a cam, headers and dual exhaust and swap the 2.56:1 gear for some 3.23s or 3.42s. That's going to make the car go a lot faster than just bolting the Edelbrock heads on the otherwise stock engine. See what I'm saying?  It's all about horsepower per dollar investment. Hope that cleared thing up. Mastermind                     

One trim level up from base that are bargains!

I've talked before about the bargains of the one-less than the top of the line model-i.e.-Firebird Formula instead of Trans-Am, LeMans Sport instead of a GTO, Rally Sport Camaro instead of Z/28, 5.0 LX Mustang instead of GT, etc. However, there are also cars out there that are one-step up from the "plain jane" base models that are great buys for the bargain-hunting musclecar buyer. # 1. 1970-78 Pontiac Firebird "Esprit". The Esprit was the luxury trim package that included an upgraded interior,Rally ( Read T/A / Formula ) guages, Rally II wheels, and usually factory a/c, stereos, power windows, etc. Further, while the base engine in a base-model Firebird was a 250 inch 6 cylinder, the standard engine in the Esprit was a 350 V8 with the 400 optional from 1970-76. Most 1977 models had 350 Pontiac or 350 Chevy engines. However, I have seen a few '77 "High-Altitude" models with 350 Olds engines.  ( This was when GM was playing musical engines due to smog laws.) 1978 models had either 301 Pontiacs, or 305 or 350 Chevys depending on whether you had California, Federal, or High-Altitude emissions. Obviously, the 350 and 400 Pontiac versions are the most desirable, but there's nothing wrong with the Chevy powered models-you basically have a Camaro. If your looking to build a Trans-Am clone, Esprits make a great base. # 2. 1973-1980 Chevrolet Camaro LT / Berlinetta. Chevy's version of the Firebird Esprit. Upgraded interiors, guages, Rally Wheels, and usually a 350 V8. For some unexplainable reason-the name of the option was changed in 1978 from "LT" ( which meant "Luxury Trim") to "Berlinetta". Some 1977-80 models might have 229 V6s or 305s. These are ok if their cheap and if your planning on an engine swap anyway. # 3. 1969-73 Ford Mustang "Grande". Same deal-the base model had a 200 or 250 inch six standard, the Grande had a 302 standard and either a 351W ( 1969 only) or 351C ( 1970-73 ) optional. Further you could get the "Sportsroof" i.e.-fastback body on a Grande, without spending the big bucks for a Mach 1. # 4. 1970-72 "Luxury" LeMans. Upgraded interior, more chrome trim, and sometimes rear fender skirts ( Those have to go ). 350 V8 standard with the 400 optional. Also available with the "Endura" ( read GTO ) front end and scooped hood. # 5. 1970-74 Olds Cutlass "S". Most had 350 motivation, but you could get a 455 without stepping up for a 442. # 6. 1969-74 Plymouth Sport Satellite. You could get a 2 dr model with a 383 or 400 without paying for the Road Runner nameplate. Good bargains to consider. Mastermind        

More One-hit wonders

Continuing from the last post that had cool '70's one or two year musclecar bargains, here's a list of  later model muscle that are great buys. # 1. 1984-86 Ford Mustang SVO. These had Recaro style seats, 16 inch wheels and low-profile tires, upgraded suspension and a Turbocharged 4-cylinder engine. 1984 models had 175 hp; 85-86 models had 205. They were great performers at the time; the only problem was the 5.0 V8 models were both faster and cheaper. However today they are great bargains. I have seen rough but running examples as low as $1,500.  # 2. 1989 Anniversary Edition Pontiac Trans-Am. You'll have to pay a King's Ransom for this one, but their worth it. Take a WS6 Trans-Am, and swap in the vaunted Turbocharged, Intercooled V6 from the Buick Grand National. These were not only faster than the 305 and 350 powered versions, they handled better because the engine was lighter. # 3. 1990-93 Chevrolet SS 454. This was a half-ton, short-bed 2wd pickup with a 454, a Turbo 400 and 3.73 gears. Some 92 and 93 models have 700R4's and 4.10 gears.  # 4. 1993-95 Ford Lightning. Another hot-rod pickup. This one had a hotted-up 351 V8, lowered suspension, 17 inch wheels and a cool monchromatic paint job.  # 5. 1994-95 Ford Mustang GT. For these 2 years you could get the new-for-94 bodystyle with the revered "5.0" V8.  1996 and later models had the 4.6 mod motor that although rated at the same hp, didn't run as good.  # 6. 1994-97 Chevrolet Impala SS. Take a cop-car Impala, stuff an LT1 'Vette motor in it, give it a sinister black paint job and trick wheels, and you've got a cult classic. This one brings a king's ransom too, but if you want one, that's the breaks.  #7. 1998-2003 Dodge Dakota R/T. Another Hot Rod pickup. 360 V8, 3.92 gears, 17 inch wheels and cool graphics. 0-60 times in the 6 second range back up the image. #8 1998-2003 Ford Lightning. Still another hot-rod pickup, but "King Kong" of the bunch. A supercharged 380 hp 5.4 liter V8 pushed these to 13 second quarters and a 139 mph top speed.  # 9. 2003-2004 Mercury Marauder. Based on the Crown Vic Police package-these had a 302 hp V8 pirated from the Mustang Cobra, a 4-speed automatic and high-stall converter, Auto Meter guages, and fat 18 inch tires and wheels. For some reason, Ford never promoted these cars, and then wondered why they didn't sell.  Any of these is a cool driver and something you don't see everyday.  Mastermind 

One-hit wonders that might be a bargain

VH1 has a show called "One-Hit Wonders" where they talk about rock bands that exploded on the scene and then faded into obscurity after one or two records. Think the "Knack" and "My Sharona" or MC Hammer and "Can't touch this." There are some musclecars that for whatever reason-usually poor sales were only made for one or two years. However,they are good performers and can be great buys for the discerning buyer. # 1. 1970 Olds Cutlass Rallye 350. This package included a super loud Sebring Yellow paint job, body colored urethane coated bumpers, a "Judge" style rear spoiler and Super Stock wheels. The only engine was a 350 4bbl backed by a 4-speed or a TH350. Other than the paint job there's really nothing special about them; I certainly wouldn't pass up a great condition base model Cutlass for a ratty one of these; but if you can find one in good condition they are a cool ride.  # 2. 1970-71 Pontiac Tempest T-37. Buff magazines of the day called them the "Poor man's GTO." They were a strippy Tempest with a 350 V8 and a three-speed manual. However,the 400 and 455 V8s were optional, as were a 4-speed stick or 3-speed automatic. The same deal was offered in 1972, but the option was re-named "LeMans GT".  # 3. 1971 Dodge Charger Super Bee. This was the only year the Super Bee package was offered on the Charger instead of the Coronet. Engine choices included the standard 383, the 340 small-block, the 440 4bbl, the 440 Six-Pack and the 426 Hemi. Hemi and 440 models are priced in the stratosphere, but you can still find a good deal on 340 and 383 versions. # 4. 1973-75 Pontiac Grand Am. Touted to have the "Performance of a Trans Am, and the Luxury of a Gran Prix" these cars didn't sell well, because perfromance buyers bought T/A's and luxury buyers bought GP's. However, if you find one, they are a great car. 400 power standard all years with the 455 optional. Wrist-thick front and rear sway bars and front disc brakes gave them the handling to match. And the interiors are sumptuous. # 5. 1974 Pontiac GTO. Often called the "Best Nova Ever Built". This was the year that the GTO nameplate switched from the "A" body LeMans platform to the "X" body Ventura. Enthusiasts and magazine writers howled to the high heavens and derided the car. However-they actually stuck true to the original GTO concept-a powerful engine in a light car. The only engine was a 350 backed by a 4-speed or a TH350, they had T/A style front and rear sway bars, front disc brakes and a limited slip rear end. They also had a Trans-Am style "Shaker" hood scoop. Over 7,000 were built so if you find one they make a nice driver, or swapping in a 400 or 455 would make a killer sleeper as they only weigh about 3,200 lbs. # 6. 1977 Pontiac Can-Am. Hoping to cash in on the Trans-Am's popularity-this package was based on the LeMans. Special features included a T/A style "Shaker" hood, a "Ducktail" rear spoiler, a Gran Prix dash, and a white paint job with special stripes. Powertrain was a 400 Pontiac or 403 Olds backed by a TH400. Radial Tuned Suspension and Rally II wheels completed the package. The car was well-recieved by buyers and the automotive press; however a shortage of GP dashes and the mold for the rear spoiler breaking delayed production. Then the GM middies were downsized for 1978 which killed the package. # 7 1978-79 Dodge Li'l Red Express Truck. This was a 2-wheel drive short bed pickup with a trick Red and gold paint job, vertical Semi-style Exhaust stacks, a hotted up 360 V8 and Chrome wheels and Fat tires. Except for a WS6 Trans-Am or L82 Corvette, this was the fastest production American made vehicle those two years. They have kind of a "Cult" following so they might be a little pricey, but enough were made that you might find a deal. # 8. 1982 Chevrolet Corvette. This was the last year of the C3 body and the first year you could get a 4-speed automatic and "Cross-Fire" injection. They were ok performers-0-60 in the 7 second range; they'd make a nice cruiser and they are unique, and could be hopped up with a little work. However in stock trim the earlier carburated L82 and the later TPI L98 models will blow their doors off. This is why their snubbed by 'Vette collectors, but there's nothing wrong with them otherwise if you want a nice C3 'Vette. There's other "One-Hit Wonders" through the '80's and '90's, but that's another story. Mastermind       

Engines to absolutely NOT use in your musclecar!

In the last 2 posts I advised readers on the various engines that offered the most "Bang for the Buck" when restoring / modifying a musclecar project. Here's a list of engines that I absolutely would not use even if they were free!!  Every manufacturer has at least one; some have several. The reason for me vehemently advising against these is that virtually no parts interchange with the "traditional" V8 engines, and they made very little power to begin with, and aftermarket support is virtually non-existant. It's a fairly short list, but I would avoid these like the plague.  # 1. 262 or 267 inch Chevy V8. These were made from 1975-83, but they are a lightweight "economy" motor and practically nothing interchanges with a traditional small-block Chevy. It's not the small size; -a 23 T-bucket or '62-67 Nova could really rock with a properly built 283 or even a 305. I'll say it again: The problem is virtually nothing from a "regular" small-block will interchange.  # 2. 265 or 301 Pontiac V8. These were only built from 1977-82, they are again a downsized, lightweight "economy" motor and practically nothing interchanges with the traditional 326-455 engines. If you have a late '70's or early '80's Firebird or LeMans with one of these engines, the upside is the bellhousing bolt-pattern and motor mount location is the same as the 350-400-455 engines so swapping these in is easy. # 3. 260 and 307 Olds V8. Same story-lightweight "economy" smog motors that wheezed out maybe 150 hp. Some 307s will accept 455 heads and custom port-matched Edelbrock Performer RPM intakes, but why would you want to? The 350 or 403 are both way more plentiful and way more powerful either stock or modified, and the bellhousing bolt pattern and motor mount location will interchange. # 4. 255 Ford V8. These have practically nothing in common with the traditonal 289 / 302. They made maybe 130 hp stock, and no speed equipment interchanges. They were used in 1980-82 Mustangs, Capris, T-Birds, Cougars and Fairmonts. Trash it, and find a 302. # 5. 368 Cadillac V8. These were the horrible 4-6-8 engine-an early attempt at cylinder de-activation for fuel economy. Nothing interchanges with 390-425-472-500 engines from 1963-79. I mention this because the 472 /500 into a GM "G" body was a popular swap a few years ago. I have even seen some Camaros and Firebirds with this conversion, as well as guys restoring Studebaker Starliners and making "Studillacs". The 368 is useless. # 6. In closing, All of these "downsized" engines are useless for serious performance work, or even for mild cruising. Stay away from them unless you need a doorstop. Mastermind  

Engines to use in your musclecar part 2.

In the last post I made recommendations on the most plentiful engines that offered the most bang for the buck for Chevy,Pontiac,Mopar and Oldsmobile. Today I'll focus on Ford, AMC and Buick.  #1. Small-block Ford. Unless your restoring an early 1963 AC Cobra model ( some had 260s before Shelby started using 289s) I can't think of a single reason to use a 260 V8. If you have a 289 in your 64-68 Mustang then go ahead and use it unless your swapping in something bigger. There's a lot performance parts out there-anything that fits a 302 will usually fit a 289. The 302 was introduced in 1968 and is still in use today-(Ford Racing crate motors). Ford Racing, Edelbrock, Trick Flow and Holley all offer heads, cams, intakes, even fuel-injection hop up parts. There are stroker cranks to make a 302 into a 347. These are a great engine for a light car-a '23 T-bucket, Cobra replica, or a Mustang. Like a small-block Chevy the power potential of these engines is almost unlimited. However in a heavier car like a Torino or Fairlane or Cougar or Montego that you want to drive on the street you'll want something bigger. The 351Windsor was used from 1969 to the present day. There's a myriad of performance parts for these engines. Ford Racing offers stroker kits and complete engines up to 427 cubes based on this platform. The 351 Cleveland was only used from 1970-74. If you have one in a Mustang or Cougar by all means use it; there's still good aftermarket support. But I wouldn't kill myself trying to find one. As for the 351 / 400M used from 1975-82, I wouldn't use them unless it was already in the car, and I didn't have much money. In stock trim, they have like 7.9:1 compression, and their 2bbl carb,lazy cam and huge "Cleveland" style heads kill whatever performance they might have had. They can be made to run with the usual hot rod tricks-compression, cam, intake and exhaust-but their so big and heavy and would cost so much to build that you'd be better off with a 429 or 460 which shares the same bellhousing bolt-pattern. # 2. Big-Block Ford. Unless your restoring a '55-'57 T-Bird I would forget the 292 and 312 "Y-Block". They are obsolete, big, heavy, and don't make any real power. I also wouldn't mess with a 352 "FE" engine. Their only 352 cubes, but their as big and heavy as a 390,427 or 428. You won't find a 427 anywhere, and unless your an NBA star restoring a Cobra you can't afford it, and it's not worth it. If you have one in the car already or can buy a 428 cheap theat's great, but their pretty scarce. However the 390 was used in millions of cars from 1963-71 and trucks until 1976. Edelbrock makes aluminum heads for them, and there are stroker cranks out there to turn a 390 into a 415, 428 or 447. The downside of these engines is their really heavy. The 429 / 460 are a much more modern design than the "FE" series. In fact, unless your restoring a 390 GT Mustang or Fairlane, I'd use a 429 or 460. There's a ton of speed equipment for these engines and Ford racing offers a 514 inch 460-based stroker. # 3. AMC. American Motors V8s range anywhere from 290 to 401 cubic inches. Forget the 290, their rare and don't have enough cubes to make any power. If you have a 304 in a really light car like a Gremlin or Hornet they can really run with a little hopping up. In a heavier car your going to want a bigger motor however. Unless your restoring a 68-70 Javelin to the nth degree, then I'd forget about a 343 or a 390. There's nothing wrong with them, if your car has one, by all means use it. I wouldn't actively search for one because their pretty rare, and usually overpriced; and a 360 or 401 is going to be cheaper and make more power. A 401 is great if you can find one. Besides Javelins, Ambassadors and Matadors, they were used in Jeep pickups, Cherokees and Wagoneers until 1978. The 360 is your best bet. They were used in Jeep Waggoneers up until 1992 so their plentiful in junkyards. Edelbrock make performance heads and intakes for these engines, and there is a fair amount of cams, headers, etc available.  # 4. Buick. Forget the 300 and 340 inch small-blocks from the early to mid-'60's. Their rare, there's hardly any parts available and they don't make any power. Your much better off with the 350 that was used from 1968-77. Kenne-Bell and T/A performance specialize in Buick performance parts. They make cams, intakes, etc. Unless your restoring a '63-65 Riviera forget the 401. Don't get me wrong, anything 400 cubes is going to run pretty good; but these are the old "Nailhead" design that dates back to 1949. The later 400, 430 and 455 engines are a modern design and make way more power. If your car has a 400 or 430 then use it. But I wouldn't kill myself searching for one, as there aren't many left-they've been out of production for 42 years. The 455 used from 1970-76 is pretty plentiful. Again, T/A performance and Kenne-Bell can help you hop these up, and Edelbrock does make intakes for them. Hope these tips save you from throwing good money away on an obsolete engine that will cost more and make less power than the recommended ones! Mastermind          

The best engines to buy and or build for your musclecar....

People ask me all the time "What engine should I use in my car?" The answer is not a simple one. Are they building a daily driver, a show car, a race car or some combination of the three? I decided to give everyone a list of what I think offer the best bang for the buck and why for each car line. # 1. Small-block Chevy. Unless your restoring a '55 Chevy or '57 Corvette to the nth degree, why would anyone even want a 265 or a 283? The 327 was and is a great engine,but since they've been out of production for over 40 years their pretty scarce. The ubiquitous 350 is your best choice. There's more aftermarket and factory equipment for this engine than anything else on the planet. The 400 was built from 1970-1980, and properly built make awesome power; however their siamesed bores can't be bored out much, and they have a history of overheating, and hot-rodders have been pilfering the cranks for 30 years to stroke 350s. Your better off putting a 383 kit in a 350, or if you must have a 400, Dart offers a complete short block that can be safely bored to 4.165 inches. Stick with a 350, and save time and money. # 2. Big-block Chevy. The 396,402,427 and 454 are all viable horsepower makers. However the the 427 has been out of production since 1969. (Although GMPP re-introduced a 480 hp 427 crate motor a couple years ago ). The 396 / 402 has been out of production since 1972. There's plenty of speed equipment available-but where are you going to find the block? On the other hand the 454 has been in use from 1970 to the present day. The 502 and 572 strokers offered by GMPP are awesome, but expensive. If you want a Rat motor, the 454 offers the most bang for the buck. # 3. Pontiac. While Pontiac engines were built from 1955-1979 and ranged anywhere from 287 to 455 cubes, there are only two that you should concern yourself with. The 287,317,347, and 370 inch V8s made from 1955-58 are useless unless your restoring a '57 Bonneville for concours. I don't know why anyone would want a 1963-67 326 when they are externally identical to the 389/400/421/428/455. Ditto for the 350 made from 1968-77. The 389 made from 1959-66 is a good engine if you have one already in the car; or if your restoring a '64 GTO to the nth degree. However their getting pretty hard to find. The same goes for the 421 made from 1962-66. If you have one, by all means use it; otherwise good luck trying to find one at any price. The 428 was only built from 1967-69 in "Big" cars. If you have one, or can buy one cheap, great. But don't search the galaxy for one. This leaves the 400 used from 1967-79 and the 455 used from 1970-76. The 400 is the best choice since there are more of them around-they were the standard engine in just about every model. And there are kits to stroke a 400 to 467 inches if you want. # 4. Small-block Mopar. Forget a 273. The 1967-91 318s are ok in a Duster or other light car; but in a heavy Charger? The 340 built from 1968-73 is a great performance engine, but try to find one. This leaves the 360 made from 1971-91 as the best buy for an "Old school" small block. Their are kits to stroke these out to 410 inches. 1992 and later "Magnum" heads will give a nice power boost and will bolt up to older blocks, but you'll need a Magnum style intake as well. The 1992 and later 318 and 360 Magnum engines are plentiful in junkyards in trucks and Jeep Cherokees. Again, the 360 makes more grunt. # 5. Big-block Mopar. Forget the early '60s 361, 413 and 426 wedge engines. They are moon rocks. This leaves you the 383 made from 1963-71, the 400 made from 1972-78 and the 440 made from 1967-78. There is a ton of speed equipment available for these engines, and kits to stroke a 400 to 451 inches or a 440 to 505. # 6. Oldsmobile. Unless your restoring a 1964 442 for concours, forget the 330 V8, their scarce and overpriced. The 350 used from 1968-1980 is a much better choice and a lot more plentiful. The 403 used from 1977-79 is a bored-out 350. This was GM's "Corporate" big-block and was used in 88s,98s,wagons,Buick Rivieras and station wagons, as well as some Pontiac Firebirds, so there fairly plentiful even though they were only made for 3 years. They will bolt right in place of a 350 or the useless 260 and 307 "smog" motors of the '80's. Might make for a good sleeper in a Cutlass or Omega. The 400 used from 1965-69 is fine if you have one; but I wouldn't go looking for one. If your restoring a '66 Toronado or if you have one in the car already, the 425 is ok, and like the 400, a lot of parts interchange with a 455, but I wouldn't waste time trying to find one; the 455 used from 1968-76 is a much better and more plentiful choice. Since their is a ton of Ford offerings I'll touch on them in the next post, as well as Buick and AMC offerings. Mastermind  

Two examples of "Stealth" fighters....

Here's a couple perfect examples of the stock looking sleepers I spoke of in the last post. # 1. 1969 Chevelle Malibu. This car had a later-model 350, a TH350 trans and a 2.73 rear end when the owner got it. He wanted a stock-looking sleeper. The engine was in good shape, so he left the short-block alone. He added some 305 heads-the 58cc combustion chambers raised the compression to about 9.6:1.  He added a Comp Cams 270H Magnum cam ( 224 degrees duration@.050, .470 lift.) He used the GM Performance Parts Iron Z/28 manifold and a custom-jetted quadrajet. The exhaust was 2 1/4 inches with "Turbo" style mufflers. He used a B&M 2,000 rpm converter and a 3.73 axle ratio. He powerbrakes it to 2,000 and it shifts automatically at 5,400 rpm. It runs high 13s and looks like a "little old lady" Chevelle. # 2. 1978 Pontiac Trans-Am. This one was a 400, 4-speed, 3.42 geared WS6 car.  The owner milled the heads .060 to raise the compression to 9.0:1. He used a Melling cam with 212 /224 duration@.050, and .442 / 465 lift. This cam has the same duration, but more lift than the factory "068" cam. The 75-79 Pontiac intakes have a restrictive throttle opening which limits power above 4,000 rpm. He replaced that with one off a '71 Gran Prix. He used 21/4 inch pipe and Turbo mufflers . He drops the clutch at 3,500 rpm and shifts at 5,500. It runs low 13s on street tires, spinning all of low gear.  Both of these cars are great drivers, look stock, and are fast enough to beat 95% of the stoplight challengers they might meet.  These types of machines are easy to build. Mastermind     

What if I want big power in a totally stock looking package?

Someone asked me this question the other day, and we had such a good discussion that I thought I'd share it with everyone. A lot of people-especially guys who show their cars as well as drive them are interested in this, as well as people who compete in Stock Appearing Drags, etc.  Here's some tips that make a bone-stock looking car-really move, but no one can see the difference. # 1. Mechanical advantage. Swapping rear end gears is easy and on a basically stock car, can cut as much as 1/2 second off your 0-60 or 1/4 mile time. If you have a car with salt-flats gearing-many '70's GM, Ford , and Mopar products do-swapping that 2.56:1 or 2.80:1 cog for something in the 3.23-3.73 range will give you a huge boost in acceleration without hurting driveability or freeway fuel economy too much.  Also a torque converter with a slightly higher than stock stall speed can really help too. Since most stock converters have a 1,200-1,700 rpm stall speed, even a 2,000 rpm converter can provide a noticeably quicker launch without affecting drivability. Don't go overboard, however-a 3,000 or 3,500 rpm converter will kill your gas mileage,and probably cause excessive wheelspin with street tires. Most applications will be fine with a stall speed between 1,900-2,400 rpm.  # 2. Exhaust. Even if your running stock iron exhaust manifolds, a good dual exhaust system with low-restriction mufflers and a balance tube, can add as much as 30 or 40 hp.  # 3. Cams. A cam swap takes a little work, but is a great "stealth" modification. A cam swap can add between 30-70 hp. If your running stock exhaust manifolds you'll want a dual-pattern cam-one that has more duration and lift on the exhaust side to compensate for not having headers. Most factory performance cams are this style, and some aftermarket- Edelbrock Performer series, Crane Blueprint, or Fireball series, etc. Follow the factory or cam manufacturers recommendations, and especially on automatic cars with high ( low numeric ) gearing I'd err on the cautious side. ( There's a reason the Boss 302 was only available with a 4-speed and 3.90 or 4.30 gears! ). # 4. Induction. GMPP has the original Z/28 / LT-1 Small-block Chevy manifold in cast iron. This is great for racing classes that require an Iron manifold or if you want to look stock while kicking ass. They also offer Iron Big-block intakes. The stock Iron intakes on Pontiac engines from 1967-74 are quite good. Ditto for the Iron 4bbl manifolds on Mopars. You can port match these manifolds and pick up a few ponies. A good carb is essential too. Box up the 40 year old numbers matching original for when you sell it or compete in concours. Jet sells performance jetted remanufactured Q-Jets for GM guys, and Edelbrock has the Thunder AVS for Mopar guys. Ford guys-sorry the Autolite 4300 is the worst carb ever made. Use a Holley or an Edelbrock and just bite the bullet at having a non-original looking carb.  # 5. Ignition. Petronix and other companies offer electronic conversions that fit under a point-style cap. You can also hide an MSD or Mallory Hyfire box under the dash or in the glove box. # 6. Stroker kits. If your rebuilding the engine anyway, this is a stealth mod no one can see. Evcn if the judges pull a head and measure the bore, you'll still skate as long as your within .060 of stock bore size in most racing or show classes!!  This is a great way to make more power while looking stock. There are kits to turn a 350 Chevy into a 383, a 302 Ford into a 347, a 351W Ford into a 392, a 360 Mopar into a 408, a 400 Mopar into a 451, and a 400 Pontiac into a 455.  There are specifics for each manufacturer, but these base guidelines giv you a good idea of what you need to build a stock looking but wicked fast sleeper.  Mastermind       

Good Restification advice regardless of brand......

While each car line-Chevy,Ford, Mopar, etc has their individual characteristics-there are some general guidelines that will save you money and give you maximum bang for the buck regardless of what your restoring. # 1. The saying-"There's no substitute for cubic inches, except cubic dollars" Is still true. Unless your restoring a classic with a small engine-i.e. a Boss 302 Mustang, or a '69 Z/28 with a 302 Chevy-always build the biggest motor you can afford. Often the larger engine costs no more to buy or build, yet either stock or modified, makes substantially more power. Some examples-a 350 Chevy makes way more power than a 305. A 400 Pontiac makes way more power than a 350. A 360 Mopar makes a lot more power than a 318. On the other hand-I said biggest motor you can AFFORD. Don't scrap a perfectly good 383 Chrysler and then spend an extra 5 grand that you don't really have, buying and building a junk 440.  Stroker cranks are all the rage now, and more cubes equals more power. This is fine if the engine in question needed the crank, rods and pistons replaced anyway. But what if you had a perfectly good running 400 Pontiac-good compression on all cylinders, good oil pressure, doesn't smoke or use a drop of oil. Instead of trying to make it into a 455, I'd take the $1699 that the stroker rotating assembly costs and buy a hot cam,an Edelbrock intake and carb, a set of headers, and maybe some gears and traction bars to put all that power to the ground. The extra power you get from those mods is going to be a lot more than you'd get with just the cubes. See what I'm saying?  # 2. Bigger is not always better. Just because some intake or cam made the most peak hp on a dyno doesn't mean it's going work well in a street-driven car. In 99% of applications I'd recommend a dual-plane manifold and a vacuum-secondary carb. Double-Pumper Holleys and single-plane intakes are ok on a steeply geared, light car with a stick-if you pop the clutch at 3 grand on up, it's not going to bog-but on a car with an automatic-that you can't rev up at the line to clean out, you need a carb that idles and launches cleanly-i.e.-a properly prepped Quadrajet or Edelbrock. Plus, every time you look at the throttle the mechanical secondarys and dual accelerator pumps open-it's like flushing a toilet. Your gas mileage will be horrific-I mean like 5-8 mpg instead 12-14. The same goes for camshaft selection. Especially on a car with an automatic transmission and high ( low numeric ) gearing it's better to err on the conservative side. Manual trans applications are more forgiving because idle quality isn't as important-you can launch at whatever rpm you want. And engine size makes a difference too. For example the old standby- the "350 hp 327 Corvette cam" will absolutely ruin a 305 Chevy. However this same cam will work pretty good in a 350 and be really sweet in a 383 or 400. The reason being that the larger engines have more torque to begin with, so losing a little bottom end in exchange for a lot more mid-range and top-end is acceptable. The 305 didn't have enough torque to lose, so the big cam just kills the small motor. You need to be cautious on big-blocks too. For example I would only recommend the Vaunted Ram Air IV cam for a 400 Pontiac if the car had a 4-speed and 3.73 gears. However, I know people that get awesome performance with this cam while running 3.08 or 3.23 gears and an automatic behind a 455. The 55 extra cubes really smooths out this radical cam. # 3. Consider "Bang for the Buck" before you spend big dollars. Aftermarket aluminum heads are all the rage, and in some cases they are a great deal. In other cases not. For example-Hot Rod magazine did a cylinder head test on a 454 Chevy a few years ago-the standard oval-port heads vs the rectangular port high-performance heads. The hi-perf heads did not show a noticeable gain until 6,300 rpm!  How often are you going to above 6,200 rpm in your street / strip machine? Edelbrock makes performance aluminum heads for just about everything; however, for anything other than a small-block Chevy they cost close to 2 grand a pair. For 2 grand you could buy a carb/intake combo, a cam, headers,a higher stall converter and some stiffer gears. Ditto for overdrive transmissions. These swaps cost anywhere from 2-5 thousand dollars. For 600 less rpm on the freeway?!  Again that money could better spent elsewhere.  Mastermind 

If no one makes the parts, then how are you going to build it?

Several people were offended when I wrote about some cool Buick models and recommended they swap in a Chevy engine to go real fast. I did this for one reason only-parts availability. Like it or not- although the popularity of the new GM LS motors is rising, the small and big block Chevy is the easiest and cheapest way for a quick power infusion into any GM chassis. I have nothing against Buicks but consider this- "Real" Pontiac engines have been out of production since 1978. Yet there is a ton of aftermarket support-Edelbrock and Kauffman offer aluminum heads, Scat and Eagle- offer stroker cranks and rotating assemblies. Butler performance and KRE offer aftermarket blocks. Ditto for Mopar "B" and "RB" engines-i.e. 383,400 and 440. Yet Edelbrock and Indy racing offer aftermarket heads, Eagle offers stroker cranks, etc. The factory-Mopar performance offers cams and intakes-even replacement "Six-Pack" setups and a 500 inch 440 based crate engine. The 455 Olds has been out of production since 1976, and the 350 / 403 since 1980. Yet, because of their immense popularity in boat racing- there is a ton of speed equipment available for the 455 Olds-including Edelbrock aluminum heads. Because so many Pontiac Firebirds were built with 403 Olds engines in the late '70's-there's plenty for them. And the 350 /403 are the same family. The Ford "FE" series was discontinued after 1976. Yet there is aftermarket aluminum heads, intakes, cams, stroker cranks, etc to build a 390 or 428, or even a 447 inch stroker. The 455 Buick was discontinued in 1976 and the 350 in 1977. Edelbrock makes Perfromer intakes for the 430 and 455s, but nothing for the 350s. Kenne-Bell and T/A performance make some parts-but unlike a Chevy or Pontiac or Ford or Mopar-you can't just call Summitt Racing and order everything you need to build a killer motor. Spare me the letters from the people with 10 second GSX's or Grand Nationals-Yes it can be done-but not easily or cheaply. If you want say-a 12 second street machine-where you need at least 400 hp-you can do that with a small-block Chevy for less than 3 grand with the right combination of parts ( Super Chevy did it for $2,600 with a Pep Boys short block, GMPP Vortec heads, and an Edelbrock intake and cam ) . Hemmings Muscle Machines built a 425hp 400 Pontiac for $3,200. Try to build a 400+ hp Buick for twice that. And I mean buying the parts retail-Don't give me a story like the magazine "Budget Builds"- "Hey-what about that set of ported and polished Brodix aluminum heads that "We ALMOST FORGOT WE HAD!"  "Don's brother just "Happened to have" a complete Six-Pack setup he took off his totaled Super Bee. He not only helped us install it, he bought the beer."  Puhleeeze. I was just saying that a Skylark might be a good buy if you can't find a Chevelle or GTO, and if you did swap in a 502 crate motor, it's not like your messing up a numbers-matching Judge. And even if you do have Donald Trump's bank account-all thing being equal-whether you spend $1,500 or $15,000, a 350 or 455 Buick is never going to make the same amount of power as a 350 or 454 Chevy for the same money. That's all I was saying. Mastermind          

The importance of torque!

A reader asked me to clarify how the Trans-Am mentioned in the last post could run high 12s with a 2.56 axle ratio. Here's how-the engine was 461 cubes ( a .030 over 455 ) with Edelbrock heads, a Tomahawk intake and a cam with 224/234 duration ( at .050 lift ) and .473/488 lift. It had headers and a good exhaust system. The engine only put out about 460 hp on the dyno; but it made a godzilla-like 573 lbs ft of torque. Further, it made 500 lbs ft as low as 2,700 rpm. This massive amount of torque is how the car went so fast with the high ( low numeric ) gearing. It's trap speeds were between 110-115 mph, which normally would mean an e.t. in the high 11s, but the car was spining the tires literally until about 70 mph! The stiffer gears didn't help that much because the increased torque multiplication resulted in even more wheelspin. If he'd had traction bars and drag radials or slicks, the e.t. would have matched the trap speed.  I see this all the time. A friend has a Duster that he stuffed a 440 based 505 inch stroker into. He does have a drag-style suspension-subframe connectors,inboard leaf springs to clear monster slicks, pinion snubber-the whole nine yards. The car actually ran FASTER with 3.55 gears than it did with 4.30s! The reason being this 500 inch monster had plenty of torque, and with the 4.30s he was running out of rpm at the end of the track. In the "Old days" when the hot setup was a 283 Chevy bored out to 301, or a 327 with a 4-speed, yes you needed 4.11 or 4.56 gears to get a holeshot, and with the right solid-lifter cam the little motors would rev to 7 or 8 grand, so you didn't run out of rpm. Ditto for big-blocks. Remember these engines were developed to do 200 mph at Daytona in Nascar racing. The huge head ports of a 426 Hemi or 427 Ford or 427 Chevy meant you had to run them at high rpm to get maximum power. For drag racing, that meant stiff gearing. Engineers figured out that smaller ports and valves with more flow velocity at low speeds made much more low-end and mid-range torque. This is what made the original Pontiac GTO such an awesome STREET machine. When you've got 430 lbs ft of torque right off idle you don't have to rev to 7 grand. This is also why the 383 and 440 Wedge Mopars would run away from a Hemi on the street if the both had 3.23 or 3.55 gears. But give the Hemi some 4.88s-and look out! Now engine builder don't build engines like your racing at Talladega now. They build for torque instead of top-end speed. You only need a 3 grand converter and 4.11 gears if the engine doesn't have enough torque to launch the car. With a big-block or even a properly built small-block, especially with street tires- a high-stall conveter and / or stiff gears is just going to give you more wheelspin which ( Duh ) actually slows you down. You have to remember that the test bed for everything is a stock 8.2:1 L48 350 Chevy. Which puts out about 250 hp and 280lbs ft of torque. This engine is a dog in a Chevelle with 2.73 gears. 3.42s or 3.73s and a 2500 rpm converter would make it feel like a rocket, as it puts every last ounce of that 280lbs of torque to use. If the same Chevelle had a 454 and 2.73 gears, changing to 3.42s and a higher stall converter would more than likely just blow the tires off, and not give you nearly as dramatic an improvement. In fact, the car might be slower because of the massive increase in wheelspin. The reason? Even a low-compression 454 out of a late '70's or early '80's pickup makes about 400lbs of torque,and makes almost all of it right off idle for towing. So using mechanical advantage to "Fool" the car into acting like it has more torque than it does backfires, because it doesn't need any more bottom-end torque! Conversely the same applies when adding top-end power. Most modifications sacrifice low-speed torque for top-end rush. For example let's say you put a Victor Jr intake on a stock small-block Chevy. The Victor Jr makes power from 3,500-8,500 rpm. If it loses 30 lbs of torque at the bottm end-now your down to 250 lbs on that stocker. it'll kill the launch even further. And since the stock cam is going to start run out of breath about 4,500-5,000 rpm-right where the Victor STARTS to make power- the car will be a slug with the aftermarket intake. Now put that Victor intake on my ZZ4 crate motor. The ZZ4 makes 405 lbs ft of torque on the GMPP dyno. It it loses 30 lbs of torque from the new intake-it still has 375-a ton more than the stocker at it's peak. And with it's aluminum heads and hot roller cam, it will get a shot in the arm about 3 grand and pull hard to 6,500. It will probably drop 3/10s in the quarter from the mid-range and top-end boost, and the slight loss of bottom-end torque might actually help the car launch better with less wheelspin. So if your building a big-block remember that it's not a small-block. Hope this clears things up Mastermind         

Beware that "Last Ounce" of speed.....You may not like it!

No matter how fast our cars are-gearheads are constantly looking for ways to go faster. On a race car this is a good thing, but on a car that your going to drive at all on the street, sometimes this can really bite you in the ass. Here's some good examples of this. # 1. A national magazine tested a bunch of intake manifolds on a small-block Chevy. The dyno test showed that the Edelbrock Performer RPM "Air Gap" model-with a raised plenum so air could flow under the carb-was worth 10-15 hp over the regular "RPM" which was already the top dog of street/strip intakes. This was great in sunny California. However, they recieved a flood of angry letters from readers in the midwest and Rocky mountain states saying that they bought these manifolds, and then experienced carburator icing which made their cars virtually impossible to start in cold weather, or if they would start, they wouldn't run properly for 15-20 minutes! These people said they were re-installing their old manifolds and gladly giving up that 10-15 hp in exchange for a car that would start reliably!!  # 2. "We shall Overcam."  Another magazine chronicled a camshaft test. Their test mule was a 383 Chevy stroker motor that was already pretty "built" the way it came. The cam in the engine idled at 800 rpm and had 14 inches of vacuum at idle. Perfect for a street machine. The "hotter" cam they installed made 28 more hp, and 24 lbs ft more of torque. However, it only made 9.5 inches of vacuum at idle, and wouldn't idle below 1100 rpm. It didn't have enough vacuum to operate the power brakes on the car it was in.  Again, the engine was already making 427 hp with the cam it came with, so making 455 wasn't worth the loss of idle quality or ability ro operate vacuum accessories!! # 3. High Perfromance Pontiac had a 79 Trans Am with a stompin' 455 in it. It ran 12.80's with a 2.56 axle ratio, and ran 12.40's with a 3.73. However gas mileage dropped from 16 mpg to 11 mpg, and highway cruising rpm went from 2300 to 3,000!. The owner felt that 4/10s at the drags wasn't worth the loss of drivability.  So be careful chasing that last ounce. Mastermind

A "Muscle Truck" might be a great buy for you!

Trucks were generally regarded as commercial, construction or farm vehichles by most people up until the late '60's. They weren't aerodynamic, and their antiquated suspensions made them ill-handling and definitely weren't considered hot rod material. However in 1967 Ford and Chevrolet / GMC completely redesigned their pickups. The bodies were actually good-looking and ( For a truck ) aerodynamic, and the interiors were vastly upgraded and more comfortable, and the suspensions were upgraded to make them not only better haulers, but better daily drivers. Air conditioning, automatic transmissions, power steering and power brakes were offered. Previously most trucks had antiquated engines that had both crappy fuel economy and no power-the 305 V6 in the GMC's and the old 292 "Y-block" V8 in the Fords. The modernized straight sixes-the 292 Chevy and 300 inch Ford got good mileage and were torquey enough to haul heavy loads, but definitely not high-performance. Now,for the first time modern, powerful V8 engines were offered. The 289 / 302 small-blocks had light-years better performance than the old Y-block Fords. The 283 and 327 Chevys offered great performance. And if you wanted more than that, the vaunted 396 Rat motor was optional in Chevys and the 390 was optional in Fords. The 2-wheel drive short-bed models were quick. Whether it's a C10 or a Chevelle-a 396 V8 in a 3,900 lb machine is a performer! As they got into the '70's they got more luxury options, front disc brakes became standard, and they got even bigger engines. Dodge finally modernized their pickups in 1972. GM offered the 454 in their 1/2 ton trucks, Ford offered the 460 and Dodge the 440. Further, as the '70's wound down, cars became more and more emasculated-the last Big-block 'Vette was built in 1974,and the option was dropped on A-bodies ( Chevelle, Monte Carlo ) in 1975. The Charger,Road Runner and Challenger / Cuda were gone after 1974-and the Mustang was more Pinto than Mustang. Catylitic converters and ever-tightening emissions standards further killed the performance of cars. However, trucks had different standards up until 1978 you could buy a Chevy pickup with a 454 with catylist-free dual exhaust, a Turbo 400 and a 3.73 rear end! Ditto for the others-440 cubes in a Dodge or 460 in a Ford. Trucks and SUV's became immensely popular in the '80's and '90's. GM offered the SS454 package from 1990-93, and Ford offered the "Lightning" F150 with a hotted-up 351W from 1992-95. Dodge didn't really have a sport truck until 1998, but when they stuffed a 360 Magnum V8 in the mid-size Dakota, they had a runner. Ford put a blower on the 5.4 mod motor in the new for '97 F150 and gave the Lightning a blistering 380 hp. GM no longer had the old style Rats- but the 6.0 and 6.2 liter LS motors produce between 360 and 403 hp depending on year. The Hemi Dodges make between 340 and 390 hp depending on year. A hot rod pickup might be the way to go for some of us. A "hauler" that hauls ass right?  Mastermind   

Here's what it takes to run 13s,12s,11s......

People talk all the time about 1/4 mile times, but I think a lot of them don't understand what is required to run these times. I thought I'd break it down a little and clarify some things. # 1. 14 second Cars. Typical 14 second rides include 5.0 Mustangs, Tuned Port Injected 'Vettes and F-bodies, '70's 4-speed T/A's or automatics with an axle-ratio change, and stock Buick Gran Nationals. This would also include "entry level" classic muscle like 340 Dusters, 383 Road Runners, 389 GTOs, 396 Chevelles, etc. Their fun to drive, and you can live with them everyday-the engines idle smoothly, the seats are comfortable and the suspension doesn't rattle your fillings loose.  # 2. 13 second cars. These are great, fun hot rods. Your typical 13 second ride has either a mildly hopped up small block in a relatively light car with a little extra mechanical advantage-i.e. a Nova with a warmed-over 350 and a 4-speed and 3.73 gears, or an automatic with a higher-than-stock stall converter, or a medium weight car with a mild big-block-i.e.-440 Road Runners, 454 Chevelles, 455 GTOs and 442s. They are still reliable enough to be driven on a daily basis if you want to, but increased fuel consumption and louder exhaust -( from headers ) and decreased idle quality-( From bigger cam ) don't make them attractive for extended driving.  # 3. 12 second cars. Nitrous can yank a 13 second car into the 12s, but the real glory is to run it "On the Motor" which means "Off the Bottle."  To run 12s without chemical assistance you need at least 425-450 hp, which means a stout small-block or a warmed over big-block. Further, you'll need to put all that power to the ground, which means a posi rear end, larger tires, and some kind of traction aiding device-pinion snubber, traction bars, ladder bars, etc. You'll also need some stiff gears-3.73 or 4.11s at least. These cars are definitely still streetable, but the drag-race oriented suspension and the motor buzzing at 3,500 rpm on the freeway aren't the usual qualities of a daily driver.  # 4. 11 second cars. Barring something exceptionally light-like a 2,400 pound Datsun 240Z with a Small-block Chevy- to go this fast you need at least 500 hp. This is why you rarely see an 11 second street machine without a blue bottle in the trunk. If you do, it's usually a car with a strong big block. Besides the previously mentioned drivetrtain, gearing and suspension compromises, most strips require any car that runs the 1/4 in under 12 seconds ( although some are 11.50 ) to have an 8-point roll cage. This means your seriously gutting the interior of the car, and making a serious committment to speed. Daily driver? Uh-uh. Sure you can drive it to the grocery store, but clambering around the roll cage every time you get in or out of the car gets old real quick. # 5. 10 second cars. "Fast and Furious" movies notwithstanding, now your basically building a race car with liscence plates. What would you call a car with an 8 or 10 point cage, a 600 hp engine, a 5 grand converter and a trans brake and nitrous?  Seriously-this kind of speed means a stout small-block with a ton of nitrous or a blower, or a Stompin' big block-think the 720 hp GMPP 572.  And to control that kind of power-chances are you'll need an upgraded drivetrain-i.e.-a T-5 or 200R4 won't hold up-you'll need a Turbo 400 or 727 Torqueflite, and an upgraded rear end-a Dana 60 or a GM 12 bolt or a Ford 9 inch.  Like I said- a race car with liscence plates.  Might cause some people to rethink what they want to build.  Mastermind

You can be cool in a Buick!

While Chevrolet and Pontiac models get most of the attention from potential musclecar buyers, you can find a cool, fun driver at a fair price if you consider a Buick. Here's a list of the best bang for the buck models. # 1 1963-65 Riviera. Bill Mitchell's masterpiece, and the styling still looks great today. Patrick Swayze drove two of them in the movie "Roadhouse". With 401 cubes under the hood, they move pretty good too.  # 2. 1966-69 Riviera. Fastback, hidden headlight styling of the Revolutionary Olds Toronado, but still rear wheel drive. 430 cubes under that long hood  moves them along quickly.  # 3. 1971-73 Riviera. The Famous "Boat-tail" design. 455 cubes-give plenty of motivation.  # 4. 1964-72 Skylark. Buicks version of the Chevelle /LeMans /Cutlass. The 300 and 340 small-blocks don't have the power of their Chevy and Pontiac cousins, and there is very little aftermarket support.  You could put in a 1968 and later 350 Buick, or a 1970 or later 455, or you could swap in a small or big block Chevy. ( It's not like your cutting up something rare ) . # 5. 1973-77 Century / Regal. Think of an upgraded Monte Carlo.  Most have 350s, but a few have 455s. Some 76-77 models may have 403 Olds engines.  A GMPP 572 in one of these would be an awesome sleeper...... Mastermind     

You can't always get what you want......

One of the Rolling Stones' biggest hits said-"You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need."  This applys to buying a musclecar as well. If you lower your sights a little-sometimes you can score a great deal. A friend of mine wanted a "Vanishing Point"- Challenger preferably with a 340, 383, or 440. The search for a 1970-71 model in decent condition at a fair price proved initially fruitless. One day he's driving down the street and sees a nice black Challenger with a "For Sale" sign on it. It turned out be a 1974 model with a 360. After driving it, he made the owner an offer, and a deal was struck. He loves the car, and talks about putting a 360 based 410 stroker in it, or a 440. And he's driving it and enjoying it while thinking about his future plans.  Another acquaintance was looking for a 1964-66 GTO.  Same story-the only Goats he found were basket cases not worth fixing or complete restos that people wanted 30K for. No "Driver quality" or needing work models in between. He found a 1964 Olds 442 for $6,000!  It needed a paint job, but the body was straight, and relatively rust-free. It had a non-original 350 Olds V8 in it, and a Muncie 4-speed. He bought it, and threw a quickie paint job on it. That was 3 years ago. He too, talks about either finding a 330 V8 and making it original, or building a 455 and making it really fast. But-He says-"It runs so damn good, and it's so damn much fun to drive, that I can't bring myself to tear it apart."  Needless to say, he no longer wants a GTO.  Don't get fixated on a certain car. And I don't mean a model, I mean an individual car. A Mopar fanatic I know got fixated on a 1970 Charger R/T .  The car was fully restored, and immaculate. It had a numbers-matching 440 Six-Pack and Center Line wheels, and it was gorgeous. However the asking price was $40,000.  He only had about 10 grand in cash, and no bank wanted to put a $30,000 loan on a 40 year old car, classic or not. My pal was bummed out, and really down in the dumps when his wife absolutely refused to let him get a home-equity loan to buy the car. While he was bitching and contemplating divorce, we ran across another 69 Charger for sale. It wasn't as nice as the other one-it was a "Driver" not a frame-off resto- but the body and paint were good, the interior was good, it only had a little rust in the trunk, ( What '60's Mopar doesn't? ) and it had a freshly rebuilt 440. And the price was $18,000.  While he was trying to get a peronal loan or a credit card for $8,000, to buy that one- we ran into a guy selling a gorgeous 1970 Super Bee. It had a 383 with a 4-speed, an awesome Sublime paint job with black Super Bee graphics, Keystone Klassic wheels with huge radial T/A's, and a gorgeous black interior. The guy was asking $13,500 for the car, and accepted my buddy's offer of 10K cash. He turned handsprings all the way home, and thanked his wife for talking him out of borrowing 30K to get the other car. He loves the Super Bee, and is still driving it, while saving for a Mopar Performance Crate Hemi. And he's still married. The point is, be patient and keep looking. And, within reason, don't "settle" for something that's not close to what you want. I know a guy that bought a 318 / Automatic 1972 Charger with the intent of someday swapping in a big-block. Like a month later-on a used car lot we see a 440, 4-speed 1974 Charger, and the price wasn't much more than what he paid for the 318 model!  Talk about kicking yourself- I never saw such despair in a human being over a car. Like Mick sang-if you try you might find what you need. At the right price. Mastermind                                          

Consider a base model and save Thousands$$!!

I've talked before about mid-level models-Firebird Formulas and Rally Sport Camaros and Coronet R/T's being great buys-but for some of us even these are getting priced out of our pocketbook's range. You can still have a cool musclecar however-you just need to lower your sights a bit. In fact, this may be the best way to get the car of your dreams. For example only 19,000 Z/28 models were built in 1969. That means of the 243,000 Camaros built that year-over 200,000 were base models. Chevrolet only sold 86,000 SS396 Chevelles in 1969. However, they sold over 400,000 Malibus that year. Now some of those were 4-door sedans and wagons, but over a quarter million were 2 door V8 models. And that's only one year. The body was basically the same from 1968-72. Ditto for Pontiac LeMans and Olds Cutlasses.  Even in a strike-shortened year-Pontiac only sold 1,286 1972 Trans-Ams, but nearly 30,000 base model Firebirds rolled off the line. Chrysler made over 100,000 Darts in 1971, but only about 7,700 were 340 Demon models. Of the 80,000 plus 1970 Challengers sold, only about 18,000 were R/T models. Ford sold over 70,000 fastback Mustangs in 1969, but that's a fraction of the quarter-million plus other models, in that single model year! The bottom line is, there are a ton of viable Camaros,Firebirds,Chevelles,Satellites,Dusters,Challengers,Mustangs, etc out there that people don't even consider because their not premium models. However-3 or 4 grand for a pristine base-model Firebird is a lot better buy than 10 or 12 grand for a "restorable" Disco-era Trans-Am. You can use the difference to trick out the car-engine improvements, suspension, tires,wheels,etc. And it may free you to make something really badass-Instead of restoring an SS396 to the nth degree,you might drop a 720hp 572 into a '68 Malibu! Or forget that 383 Road Runner-how about a 528 Hemi Satellite? Don't despair, just use a little imagination. Mastermind