Simple tips to get maximum performance....even if the car is bone stock!

A lot of people tell me that their happy with their musclecar, and they don't want to modify it, but they wish it would run better.  Here's the solution to this problem.  # 1. Do a compression test or a cylinder leakdown test. The compression should be close to the same on all cylinders. Even an 8:1 "smog" motor will have at least 120-130 lbs per cylinder. Higher compression engines will register 150 lbs or more, but they should be pretty even-within 5-10 lbs of each other. If one cylinder registers 80-90 lbs, you've got a problem-possibly bad rings or a blown head gasket. You'd be surprised how many musclecars are running around on 7 cylinders.  # 2. No high rpm power. I'm not talking 7 grand; many cars don't have the valvetrain or bottom end for that. But even a 318 Dodge with a two-barrel will rev to 5,000 rpm or so.    If your musclecar starts popping above 3,500 rpm, or won't rev over 4,000 or 4,500 rpm, then you could have a flat cam, or bad valvesprings or a lot of timing chain slop. You'd be amazed at the number of cars I see with $5,000 paint jobs, that can't pull 5,000 rpm in low gear.  # 3. Even if the engine is in good shape, the most common problem is bad tuning. Even on a bone stock engine, bad tuning can cost you as much as 50 hp. I see it everyday-the timing is way too slow or way advanced, the vacuum advance is unplugged or inoperable, the plug wires are bad, the points are closing up, the carburator is way too rich or way too lean, or the throttle doesn't open all the way. Make sure the car is tuned right-you'd be amazed what a new set of points and condenser ( set to the proper gap) distributor cap, rotor and plugs and wires will do, along with the timing set properly. Make sure the throttle is opening fully and that the linkage isn't sticking, If the float is sinking, or the carb isn't working properly put it in a box if it's numbers-matching, otherwise trash it and buy a new one. Don't be "Bo Duke" and tune it "By ear". Find a shop that has a distributor machine and an infrared exhaust analyzer and pay them to do it right. You'll be amazed at the power increase of your own car, when all they did was set it up right. # 4. Exhaust. You'be amazed at the cars running around with smashed up, or restrictive exhaust systems. Even if your running stock iron exhaust manifolds, a good flowing dual exhaust system can add as much as 30 or 40 hp. Further if your car was built after 1975 and has one or two catalytic converters and the car has more than 100,000 miles on it, the converter(s) could be stopped up.  Unless the converter starts glowing red, or the car won't run at all, you won't know this. But you could be losing a substantial amount of power and not realize it. A simple test- disconnect the converter and drive the car. If the car runs way smoother and faster-then the converter is stopped up and needs to be replaced. If all you notice is more exhaust noise, but the car doesn't run any different, then the converter is working ok.  # 5. Transmission. If you have an automatic you could be losing a lot of performance from slippage or sloppy shifting. Change the fluid at least every two years or 25,000 miles. And I mean have it flushed at a shop-dropping the pan and adding 4 qts of clean fluid to 8 qts of dirty fluid means you have 12 qts of dirty fluid as soon as you start the engine. Even if your not a mechanic most shops will install a B&M or TranGo shift kit for a reasonable fee, and make sure the vacuum modulator and the kickdown cable is hooked up and working properly.  If you have a stick, make sure the clutch isn't slipping or chattering, and that the shift linkage isn't binding up.  You'd be amazed at the cars that are losing tons of performance from one or more of these problems!!  Mastermind