What if I want big power in a totally stock looking package?

Someone asked me this question the other day, and we had such a good discussion that I thought I'd share it with everyone. A lot of people-especially guys who show their cars as well as drive them are interested in this, as well as people who compete in Stock Appearing Drags, etc.  Here's some tips that make a bone-stock looking car-really move, but no one can see the difference. # 1. Mechanical advantage. Swapping rear end gears is easy and on a basically stock car, can cut as much as 1/2 second off your 0-60 or 1/4 mile time. If you have a car with salt-flats gearing-many '70's GM, Ford , and Mopar products do-swapping that 2.56:1 or 2.80:1 cog for something in the 3.23-3.73 range will give you a huge boost in acceleration without hurting driveability or freeway fuel economy too much.  Also a torque converter with a slightly higher than stock stall speed can really help too. Since most stock converters have a 1,200-1,700 rpm stall speed, even a 2,000 rpm converter can provide a noticeably quicker launch without affecting drivability. Don't go overboard, however-a 3,000 or 3,500 rpm converter will kill your gas mileage,and probably cause excessive wheelspin with street tires. Most applications will be fine with a stall speed between 1,900-2,400 rpm.  # 2. Exhaust. Even if your running stock iron exhaust manifolds, a good dual exhaust system with low-restriction mufflers and a balance tube, can add as much as 30 or 40 hp.  # 3. Cams. A cam swap takes a little work, but is a great "stealth" modification. A cam swap can add between 30-70 hp. If your running stock exhaust manifolds you'll want a dual-pattern cam-one that has more duration and lift on the exhaust side to compensate for not having headers. Most factory performance cams are this style, and some aftermarket- Edelbrock Performer series, Crane Blueprint, or Fireball series, etc. Follow the factory or cam manufacturers recommendations, and especially on automatic cars with high ( low numeric ) gearing I'd err on the cautious side. ( There's a reason the Boss 302 was only available with a 4-speed and 3.90 or 4.30 gears! ). # 4. Induction. GMPP has the original Z/28 / LT-1 Small-block Chevy manifold in cast iron. This is great for racing classes that require an Iron manifold or if you want to look stock while kicking ass. They also offer Iron Big-block intakes. The stock Iron intakes on Pontiac engines from 1967-74 are quite good. Ditto for the Iron 4bbl manifolds on Mopars. You can port match these manifolds and pick up a few ponies. A good carb is essential too. Box up the 40 year old numbers matching original for when you sell it or compete in concours. Jet sells performance jetted remanufactured Q-Jets for GM guys, and Edelbrock has the Thunder AVS for Mopar guys. Ford guys-sorry the Autolite 4300 is the worst carb ever made. Use a Holley or an Edelbrock and just bite the bullet at having a non-original looking carb.  # 5. Ignition. Petronix and other companies offer electronic conversions that fit under a point-style cap. You can also hide an MSD or Mallory Hyfire box under the dash or in the glove box. # 6. Stroker kits. If your rebuilding the engine anyway, this is a stealth mod no one can see. Evcn if the judges pull a head and measure the bore, you'll still skate as long as your within .060 of stock bore size in most racing or show classes!!  This is a great way to make more power while looking stock. There are kits to turn a 350 Chevy into a 383, a 302 Ford into a 347, a 351W Ford into a 392, a 360 Mopar into a 408, a 400 Mopar into a 451, and a 400 Pontiac into a 455.  There are specifics for each manufacturer, but these base guidelines giv you a good idea of what you need to build a stock looking but wicked fast sleeper.  Mastermind