Some "Rodney Dangerfields" you may want to consider-.

There are some engines that don't get the respect of others in the same car line, and often it's not that there's anything  inherently wrong with the engines, it's just the circumstances and the models they were available in.  However, some of these can make a very viable musclecar powerplant for those of us on a tight budget, or if you happen to have one already in the car. Here they are in no particular order of importance.  # 1. 400 Small-Block Chevy. Introduced in 1970 as a "towing" engine with two-barrel carburation,low-compression, single exhaust,and stuck in 4,500-6000 lb Malibu and Impala wagons with 2.73:1 gears, they got a reputation as a "dog" compared to high compression, 4bbl 327s and 350s that were also in lighter cars. Further-they got a reputation for overheating that really wasn't fair. The problem was the siamesed bores with steam holes in the block and heads to aid cooling. The "overheating" problem came from the shade-tree mechanics wanting to hot rod them. They'd put "2.02" heads off a 350 on them ( which were not factory drilled with the steam holes ) that would block off the steam holes in the block and cause the engine to overheat. Or they'd buy a generic "Small Block Chevy" head gasket set-i.e.-283-307-327-350- which did not have the steam holes in the head gasket-and have the same problem. And because of the siamesed cylinder bores, they can only be bored .030 over. They also have a 5.565 inch connecting rod instead of the small-block's normal 5.7 inch size. And-from the late '70's until now-the hot setup became a cut-down 400 crank in a 350 block to make a 383. If your building a small-block Chevy from scratch-the 383 crank and piston kits are so cheap that it's really the only way to fly-it doesn't really cost any more to build than a 350, but makes substantially more power and torque with the same equipment.  However-if you have a 400 block in good condition or can buy one dirt-cheap-then by all means build it. They were used in various cars and trucks until 1980. You can buy crank kits with longer 5.7 rods and shorter pistons to add even more torque-and with some Iron Vortec or aftermarket aluminum heads drilled for the steam holes-with the right cam, carb and intake, etc- you'll get big-block hp and torque levels in a small-block package. Or you can step up and buy a brand-new 400 block from Dart that can be bored and stroked to 434 inches!!  # 2. 403 Olds V8. Although they were only built from 1977-79, there are millions of them around. Besides being used in countless Pontiac Firebirds and Trans-Ams, they were also used in Pontiac Bonnevilles, Buick Rivieras, Olds Toronados, 88s and 98s, and all the big GM wagons except Chevrolet. Same story as the 400 Chevy-with low (even by late'70's standards) 7.8:1 compression, a lazy cam, and  saddled with a slushbox and 2.41:1 salt-flats gearing, they got a rep as a slug.  However- in the Trans-Am and Formula Firebirds the vaunted W72 Pontiac 400 made 320 lbs of torque at 2800 rpm, and the 403 made 325 lbs-ft-as low as 1600 rpm!!. The main difference in performance was the W72 / WS6 Pontiac-engined versions got 3.23 gears with an automatic, and 3.23 or 3.42s with a 4-speed, while the Olds-engined versions got 2.41 or 2.56 gears. The good features of the 403 are they are basically a bored-out 350-huge 4.351 bore and 3.38 stroke. 6 inch rods are the hot setup for small-block Chevy racers-403s-have 6 inch rods stock. With a set of headers, a mild cam and an Edelbrock Performer intake you can make 290-325 hp and 350 lbs ft of torque on an otherwise stock engine. This may not sound like much, but it's quite a hike from the stock rating of 185 hp!!  You can use 1968-72 350 heads for a full one point boost in compression to 9.0:1. ( These have 70cc combustion chambers compared to the 403s 80cc.) However you'll have to re-tap the bolt holes for larger 9/16 bolts used on '75 and later engines. Mondello peformance sells a kit to do this. With a set of headers, an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and matching cam-Edelbrock claims 397 hp on a 350-the extra 53 cubes of the 403 should put you over 400hp easily. If you want more than this-you can also use Edelbrock aluminum 455 heads. You'll have to use an electric fuel pump-( they won't clear a stock mechanical one, and if you try to clearance the heads you'll hit water ) and have them milled to 70cc to get proper compression ( the Edelbrock heads have 84cc chambers stock ) but they have a thick enough deck to handle this. You'll also need to use a port-matched Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold with the 455 heads. (Mondello sells these too.). The only glitches are the RPM manifold won't clear a Trans-Am shaker scoop-you'll have modify the scoop or use the "regular" Performer and give up 25 hp and 30 lbs of torque on the top-end. Also if you going to shoot for more than 400 hp or rev it over 5,500 rpm-the "windowed" mains on these engines may not hold up. However, Mondello sells a kit for strapping the mains that will allow them to rev to 6,500 and beyond. If you want to build a high-revving 403, I'd use this kit and a nodular iron crank from a 350 Olds or a forged steel one from a 330. The 330 cranks use a different flywheel than the 350 / 403s, but again- Mondello to the rescue-they have billet flywheels and flexplates that can use the 330 crank in a later 350 / 403 block. With these modifications your "smog dog" T/A can give those smug 400 Pontiac owners a lesson in humility, or you'll have a great sleeper to swap into a 350 Cutlass. # 3. 360 Mopar V8. Everyone, including hard-core Mopar-philes lamented that the legendary 340 was a much better performer. Of course it was-with 10.5:1 compression, a 4bbl, dual exhausts, and a hot cam. The 360, introduced in 1971 in trucks and vans- had 2bbl carburation, 8.5:1 compression, a lazy cam and single exhaust!!  They didn't even get a 4bbl option until 1974, and catalytic converters ruined perfromance futher in '75. So comparing a 340 to a 360 really isn't fair. However, 360's are a great base for a hot rod engine. For example the hot setup for 350 Chevy Nascar racers is angle plug heads and 6 inch connecting rods. 360 Mopars have angle plug heads and 6.123 inch rods stock. Mopar Perfromance sells a 360 crate motor with 380 hp and 410 lbs ft of torque. And, there is a ton of aftermarket speed equipment for these engines, intakes, cams, heads, etc. Eagle, Scat, and others offer stroker cranks to get 408 cubes. 1992 and later "Magnum" heads breathe better than any factory and many aftermarket heads. These will bolt up to '91 and earlier blocks; but you'll need a "Magnum" style intake manifold. No problem, Edelbrock has you covered. A properly built 360 would be absolute dynamite in a Duster or Dart, really strong in a Challenger / 'Cuda, and torquey enough to move a Charger or Road Runner fast enough for all but the most hardcore street freaks. Unless your building a 440-you'd be hard pressed to get more power than a properly built 360 could deliver.  # 4. 350 Pontiac V8. This "Rodney Dangerfield" really gets no respect because it's overshadowed by it's 400 and 455 inch brothers.  And, because Pontiacs are externally identical from a 326 to a 455-most people just chuck the 350 and literally bolt-in a 400 or 455. However-there are hundreds of thousands of LeMans, Tempest,  Firebird and Ventura models out there from 1968-77 with 350s under the hood. If you want 500 hp, then yes, you need to swap in a 400 or 455. However, if you want a reliable, powerful engine for your daily driver or weekend cruiser, or you can live with "only" about 325-350 hp and 400lbs of torque, then by all means use the 350 thats in the car. The limiting factor on these engines is the small bore. Unlike their Chevy and Olds cousins that are both oversquare designs-( big-bore, short stroke ) the Pontiac has a 3.875 bore and 3.75 stroke. The big-valve, big port heads of the 400 / 455s can't be used because the valves will hit the block. This limits the amount of power you can make. Also, the long stroke design makes lots of low-end torque, but limits high-rpm capability. Thus-what you do is simply accentuate what Pontiac did to start with-make big torque at low rpm. and redline the engine at 5,500 rpm. And when you've got 350-400+ lbs of torque from idle on up, you don't need to rev to 7 grand. Since a lot of these engines had 2bbl induction, the 1st and easiest upgrade is a 4bbl carb and intake manifold. The intakes off a 400 or 455 will bolt right on, and the factory Pontiac 4bbl intakes from 1967-74 are quite good. The '75 and later models have the EGR valve protruding into the throttle opening which severely limits power above 4,000 rpm. If you have a 75 and later engine I would get the earlier factory manifold, or use an Edelbrock Performer. Headers and dual exhausts really wake up these engines. Pontiac heads can be milled up to .060 to get a full one-point boost in compression. You also have to mill the intake side so the manifold will fit properly. As for cams-the Edelbrock Performer is an excellent choice for a 350, as is the factory "068" cam. While the timing and lift of these cams may seem mild. For a 400 or 455 they might be,trust me they are much more aggressive than they sound, and a 400 was the test mule.  My eager research bears this out.  The last thing is gears. The strongest engine in the world will seem like a slug when it's saddled with 2.56:1 gears. Stick with something in the 3.23 to 3.73 range. With these mods people will think you've swapped in a 400. They'll never believe a 350 runs that strong. Hope this helps some of you save money and go fast!  Mastermind