Don't "Over Restore" your car!

 Here's where a lot of people spend a lot of unnecessary money, and then are shocked to find that they can't sell the car for anywhere near what they've got invested in it. Here's some tips to avoid this problem.   # 1 "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."  I know a guy who replaced the power steering pump even though it wasn't making noise, didn't leak, and worked perfectly. He replaced the alternator and starter even though they worked perfectly and bench-tested fine. He replaced the radiator even though it didn't leak, wasn't clogged up and cooled the engine fine, even in 95 degree weather. I could go on, but you get the point. He spent a lot of money replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced, that drove his restoration cost way up, but didn't increase the value of the car.  # 2 Not having the original engine is not always a bad thing. If your restoring a 1969 Z/28, and it doesn't have a "DZ" 302 in it, yes that greatly reduces the value of the car. However if your restoring a 1973 Camaro that had an L48 350 to begin with, and has an L48 out of say, a 76 Impala, I wouldn't panic. The L48/LM1 was the "Bread and Butter" 350 that was installed in millions of Chevrolet cars and trucks from 1969-1985. GMPP still sells these as "Long block" replacements to this day. Your not losing value by not having a numbers-matching block, because the original engine wasn't special and wasn't worth anything to begin with! Same thing applies to other makes- Yes, a "Boss 302" without the Boss 302 engine is severely handicapped. But a base model 64-68 Mustang with an "Unoriginal" 289 or 302 has not had it's value compromised. A 69 Judge without the RAIII engine is compromised, a 72 Firebird Esprit without the original 350 2bbl Pontiac engine is not. See what I'm saying?  # 3 Modified is not always a bad thing, as long as the modifications are "Period correct."  Your 68 Road Runner is not "Ruined" because it has Cragar S/S mags and headers on it.  A 68 Z/28 with a Fuel-injected LS motor out of a 2008 Corvette, 4L80E overdrive tranny, rack and pinion steering, and 20 inch wheels is an abomination.  Unless you compete in concours shows where the hose clamps matter, Your 1970 LS6 Chevelle is not "ruined" because it has a #4779 750 Double-pumper Holley carb on it instead of the original #3310 780!!  See the difference?  # 4 Again, unless your competing in concours, It's perfectly ok to "Add" options when restoring a car. A few examples-You bought a 1978 Pontiac Trans-Am. It has Rally II wheels on it, but you really like the "Snowflake" design that was offered from 1977-81. Year One sells reproduction "Snowflake" wheels in the original 15X8 size and in 17X9. Who or what would be hurt if you put the Snowflake wheels on your car?  You buy a 1966 GTO with a 4bbl 389. You find a Pontiac Tri-Power setup for sale on E-Bay. Again, who or what is hurt by you putting the 3x2 setup on your car? In fact, even though it's not original, you actually increased the value of the car by putting the Tri-power on it!   # 5 It's ok to "Upgrade" a base model. If you buy a 318, 3-speed 1970 Challenger, and you drop in a 340 and a 4-speed, guess what? You didn't decrease the value of the car, you increased it!  If you buy a 326 or 350 powered Pontiac Firebird and swap in a 400 or 455, trust me, the car is worth more, not less. If you added a Formula hood, or T/A Shaker hood and spoilers, that's even better, as long as you don't try to pass it off as original.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind