"Hidden" modifications that can make your "stock" Musclecar faster

A lot of musclecar enthusiasts want to keep theirs stock, or at least looking stock, but still want to improve the car's performance or get faster e.t.'s at the drags. Here's some tips that will work on any make or model, and be invisible to onlookers, or even tech inspectors. ( Unless they tore the engine apart ). # 1 Ignition. Nothing is more irritating than your car not running or even starting because the points are closing up. And, you may get point bounce above 4,500 rpm.  Replace your point-type distributor with an electronic one. MSD, Accel, and Mallory all sell factory-style rebuilt HEI distributors for GM, Ford and Mopar applications. These units have a more performance oriented advance curve than a generic stock replacement like you find at Autozone, and will improve starting, driveability, and fuel economy. If you want to be really stealthy Petronix offers kits that convert a point-type distributor to electronic, and fit under the stock point-type cap!  #2 Carburation. Although they had great throttle response and all-around performance, the Carter AVS four-barrels that came on most 340, 383, and 440 Mopars from 1965-71 only flowed about 585 cfm. Put the original in a box, for show day or in case you want to sell the car to a "just as it left the factory" type. For a noticeable power increase, buy an Edelbrock Thunder AVS carb. They are available in 650 cfm ( perfect for a 340 ) or 800 cfm ratings. The 800 cfm carbs will really "wake up" a 383 or 440, with no decrease in driveability or fuel economy. They can also be used on hotter 340 or 360 applications. For GM guys, Summit Racing, Jet, and other companies sell performance-jetted Q-jets in 750, 800 and 850 cfm ratings. Use the 750s on engines under 400 cubes. The larger ones work better on the bigger motors-454 or 455 inches.  Fords need improvement here too. The Autolite 4-barrel on most 289 Mustangs only flows about 470 cfm.  A 600 cfm Edelbrock Performer or 600 cfm Holley with Vacuum secondaries would give you a vast improvement. On larger engines, 351 on up, I'd use the 750 cfm Edelbrock or a 780 cfm vacuum-secondary Holley, in place of the horrible Autolite 4300.  # 3 In the early '60's Chrysler found more performance not in the engine, but the transmission with the Torqueflite which was a quantum-leap up from the old hydra-matics. Even if your musclecar has a Torqueflite, Turbo 350 / 400, or C4 / C6, you can improve the performance. B&M, TransGo and other companies offer shift kits and adjustable modulators that are easy to install. These will allow you to precisely tailor full-throttle shift points to any rpm you desire, and improve-part-throttle operation as well. Another hidden modification you can do is a slightly higher stall-speed converter. Unless your running a super-radical cam, a 2000 rpm converter will give you about 500-600 more rpm on takeoff than a stock converter, which will cut 0-60 times noticeably, and won't hurt fuel economy or driveability, even if you have mild 3.23 gears.  # 4 Camshaft. Most musclecar engines, especially big-blocks, can use a little more cam to build mid-range and top-end power without adversely affecting Idle quality or low-end torque. Check with the cam manufacturers on what's right for your engine/transmission/axle ratio. The right cam can add as much as 50 horsepower without affecting anything else, and no one will ever know. # 5 Cylinder heads. Good flowing heads can add 50 or more hp stealthily, and more if paired with intake, cam and exhaust upgrades. Ford Racing, GMPP and Dart offer performance Iron heads for small-block Fords and Chevys, and big-block Chevys. Unless someone checked the casting numbers, no one would know. Edelbrock offers high-performance Aluminum heads for just about anything. You could paint them the stock color, and none but the most discerning eyes would ever be able to tell. # 6 Cubic inches. If your rebuilding the engine anyway, you might as well increase the displacement. More cubes always mean more power and torque, even if all the other factors ( i.e.-cam, carb / intake, exhaust, etc ) are identical. There are crank and piston kits available to turn a 350 Chevy into a 383, or a 396 into a 427, or a 427 into a 454. There are kits to turn a 302 Ford into a 347, a 351W into a 392 or 427, or a 460 into a 514. There are kits to turn a 360 Chrysler into a 410, or a 383 /400 into a 451, or a 440 into a 500.  There are kits to turn a 389 / 400 Pontiac into a 428 or a 455.  Now go build a sleeper!  Mastermind