Think of the total package....And the total cost of restoration!

When searching for bargains, people often get excited when they think they've found one, and make a snap decision that turns out to bite them in the butt later, or cost them extra money they hadn't planned for.  Here's some tips to avoid buying yourself a ton of grief down the road. # 1 Get a clear title. This sounds like a no-brainer, but you'd be amazed at the people that buy cars with no title, or an iffy one. "But it's a Hemi Car" or whatever, they'll protest when I tell them to let it be someone elses problem. Do you want to invest 10,20 or 30 thousand dollars restoring a car to find out you can't legally register it, or sell it?  I don't.  # 2 Think ahead about what you really want. If your buying a base-model Camaro or Nova to turn into a Z/28 or SS396 clone, or a Challenger / Cuda you want to make into a T/A or AAR Clone, or you want to go "Pro Touring" or "Nascar Tribute" or whatever, and you absolutely have to have a four or five speed stick, a six-cylinder, three-speed stick model is a better buy than a V8 automatic one, assuming the price and condition is the same. Why? The stick model already has the clutch and brake pedals, the clutch linkage, and bellhousing. This saves you a ton of money, saves you time not chasing down stuff like the clutch fork, or crossbar either new or used, and saves you a ton of time not having to measure and cut up the floorboards for the shifter, wirng up a new neutral safety switch etc, etc. The same goes for other drivetrain components. If your really are building a clone Hemi Road Runner, a 383 Satellite is a better buy than a 318 one, even though your changing the engine either way, and even if the 383 models price is a little higher for a rougher car. Here's why- The 383 model will have the big-block K-member, springs, and torsion bars, a 727 Torqueflite, and an 8 3/4 rear end with big-block leaf springs. This will save you a ton of money and fabrication time, as the Slant six / 318 K- member, springs and torsion bars won't bolt up to, or be able to handle the extra weight of the Hemi, and the car will handle like crap, and may not be safe to drive. The 904 Torqueflite won't work, and the 8 1/4 rear end and six/ small-block springs will cause axle windup and parts breakage, while the 8 3/4 is practically bulletproof.  # 3 Think about the cars final use. If it's a race car, then the only limit is class rules. If it's a Concours show car, obviously documentable originality is important.  If your going to drive the car at all, then certain options might make a "lesser" model more desirable than a "premium" one. For example, I'd much rather have a loaded 350 Malibu with factory power front disc brakes, bucket seats and console and factory A/C than a strippy SS396 Chevelle with bench seats, four-wheel drum brakes, and no A/C.  Or I'd rather have a 400 Pontiac, 4-speed 1978 Firebird Formula, than a 403 Olds / automatic 1978 Trans-Am.  See what I'm saying?  # 4 Consider resale value. Very few people keep a car more than 5 years, even if it's a "toy" and a second or third car. If you think you might want to sell the car in the next few years, I'd stay away from weird stuff like step-down engines-( Who wants a 301 T/A instead of a 400 or a 307 Camaro instead of a 350? )  and two-speed automatics, three-speed sticks, column-shifted bucket seat cars, radio or heater delete cars, etc.etc.  Their not collectible, their just weird, and no one but you and the slime who sold it to you thinks it's cool.  And base models are cheap for a reason. You may have the most awesome base-model Mustang or Firebird ever, just don't expect Boss 302 or Trans-Am money when you sell it.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind