Not every Musclecar is "Special" so don't pay a high price for an "Average" car!

Every one whose selling a musclecar tells the buyer how unique it is, because their trying to get a high price, usually more than the car's worth. To avoid this you have to have common sense. # 1. Make sure your comparing "Apples to Apples." For example-Chevrolet produced 75,600 Impala SS coupes in 1967 and another 38,210 in 1968. ( The Bodystyle is identical ). If you were buying one of the 2,124 made with a 427, and it still had the numbers-matching 427 in it, then that would be a car worth paying premium dollars for. However if it was one of the 100,000 or so small-block models, it's not worth nearly as much, even if it's in better condition. Even "Apples to Apples" can have a wide spread. If your comparing two SS396 Chevelles-the one with bucket seats, a 4-speed, a posi rear end, front disc brakes and a factory tach is worth way more than one with bench seats, an automatic, an open rear end, four-wheel drum brakes, and standard instrumentation, even if the "strippy" is in better condition. # 2. A "Lesser" model can be a better deal. A perfect example- a 400 Pontiac, 4-speed, Firebird Formula is a better buy than a same-year Trans-Am with the 403 Olds / Automatic powertrain, if their in similar condition. It goes the other way too. I'd rather spend 15 grand on a really nice,great running, great looking, restored or at least well maintained 1969 Mach 1 Mustang with a 351W and an automatic, as opposed to a rough Boss 302 that needed another 20 grand of restoration to make it drivable. # 3. You have to evaluate how much missing components hurt the car's value, and is it worth trying to restore, or have without the missing component. For example, an ultra-premium car missing a key component- i.e.- a Hemi car without the Hemi engine is not a deal, because the cost of finding a replacement would be exorbitant. And to restore one without it-big deal-you have a 383 or 440 in a car that has Hemi serial numbers. It has no real resale value. Hemi collectors don't want it unless they can steal it because of the cost of finding a replacement Hemi, and no one else wants to pay premium dollars for a car with a non numbers-matching powertrain. And I'm not just talking Hemis or Boss 429s. A 1968 Z/28 without an engine has a severely compromised value. Yeah, you could stuff a garden-variety 350 in it and make it run. But to make it right you need a 302, that was only produced from 1967-69 in very limited numbers. Good luck finding one of those for sale, at any price. Yes, you can find a 327 or 350 block and put a custom 283 crank in it and technically have a 302, but it's still not original. # 4. Don't pony up for "Special Editions" that aren't special.  A "California Special" Mustang is not a Shelby. It has T-bird Taillights and side scoops like a Shelby, but otherwise they are a garden-variety Mustang. A black and gold "SE" 1977-79 Trans-Am is nothing special. After "Smokey and the Bandit" thousands upon thousands were built. Ditto for a "Silver Anniversary" 1978 Corvette. Except for the paint job and some emblems, they're a garden-variety Corvette. A T37 Tempest is not a Judge, and a Rallye 350 Cutlass is not a Hurst / Olds. # 5. "Rare" doesn't automatically mean "Valuable".  Two-barrel step-down engines,two-speed automatics, 3-speed sticks,column-shifted bucket seat cars, 4-speed bench seat cars, police packages, radio or heater delete cars etc, aren't collectible, their just weird, and no one but the guy trying to sell it for an inflated price thinks it's cool. # 6. Avoid cars with major problems. Unless you are a bodyman or mechanic by trade, ( and even then I still caution you ) pass on things with major rust issues, bent frames, or water or fire damage. These can turn into both a nightmare and an endless money pit. These are not a deal at any price, even free. Your better off just spending more money and starting with a better car, because you'll save a ton of money and aggravation later on.  Hope this helps everyone out. Mastermind