Good advice for buying and / or restoring a musclecar....

There's a show called "Property Virgins" on one of the cable channels where Real Estate agents help first-time home buyers avoid costly mistakes. Maybe we need something like that for car restorers. Anyhow-here's some good advice that will save you a ton of money and grief.  # 1. Make sure the car has a legal, clear title. This should be a no-brainer, but you'd be amazed at the number of people that buy stuff without a title, or a salvage title and then are furious when they can't get it registered or sell it or trade it in. Because a DMV clerk transposed 2 numbers 18 years ago-I had a helluva time-I had to get a lawyer-getting a clear replacement title for my 442 when I wanted to sell it-and I had  registered, insured, and driven the car for 18 years!! Nothing is a "deal" if you can't register it or sell it!!  # 2. Avoid "basket cases" or cars with major rust damage or water or fire damage. These cars are not a deal no matter how cheap they are. Fixing them will cost about five times what you think it will. Trust me, your way better off in terms of money saved and grief avoided, by just spending more money and getting a better car to start with. # 3. A rare or special car missing a major component is not a deal. Obvious examples would be a Hemi-powered Chrysler vehicle missing the Hemi engine or a Boss 302 or 429 Mustang missing the "Boss" engine. The cost of trying to find a replacement engine for one of these would be so prohibitive that even if you had an unlimited bakroll-your better off just searching for a complete car. Think about it-Where in the hell are you going to find a complete, for-real "Boss 429" engine for sale, at any price? I'm sure some of you are saying right now-"Well, Duh!" "Anyone knows that". Ok. What about a fuel-injected '57 Bonneville or '63 Corvette missing the fuel-injection system? Also-"Duh".  Then you'll consider buying an '87 Buick Grand National or '86 Mustang SVO that's missing the Turbo engine!!  Where are you going to find replacement back glass for a '71-73 "Boat-Tail" Riviera? Or a "Shaker" hood for a '74 GTO?  ( T/A resto shops sell the scoops; I'm talking about the HOOD with the whole in it, for the scoop, for a Ventura, not a Firebird. Good luck with that. ) Which brings up...#4. Unless you want to actually race it on the vintage racing circuit as a toy with a modern crate engine-avoid old race cars like the plague. To "restore" one to drivable,streetable condition is almost impossible. Their always gutted, and they always have an unoriginal engine and drivetrain. You buy a 1970 Pontiac Trans-Am race car. Your going to restore it to "Original" race specs? Guess what? You'll never in a million years find a 303 Pontiac engine. The SCCA allowed 302 Chevys because Canadian Firebirds had Chevy engines, but where are you going to find a 302 Chevy engine that '67-69 Z/28 restorers haven't hoarded?  Your best bet would be throw a small-block Chevy crate engine in it and have fun. Ditto for a Mustang or Challenger. Your not going to find a for-real 305 Mopar or Boss 302 race engine for sale at any price!! With Edelbrock or Trick Flow heads you could build a "Mock" Boss engine, and you could throw a 360 crate engine in the Dodge, but it'll never be "Original" like the ones Parnelli Jones and Sam Posey and Jerry Titus raced!!  The old saying-"If you want to make a million dollars racing, then start with two million" is true. # 5. Be honest about what your going to use the car for. If it's an investment or a show car, then do anything you want. But if your going to drive the car at all-then there's things you should consider. If it gets really hot where you live-Las Vegas, Arizona, Florida, etc-you get the picture. It might behoove you to get a car with working or at least repairable factory A/ C.  If you live in a big city with a lot of stop-n-go traffic-like San Francisco or Los Angeles-an automatic might be a better choice than a 4-speed. If you want a Corvette to cruise the wine country with your wife on weekends do you think a low-compression, hydraulic-cammed small-block model might a little more pleasant to drive ( especially on pump gas ) than an 11:1, solid-lifter, Tri-Power, 4.11:1 geared 427 model?  # 6.  "Run What You Brung". At least on your first project. Yes, it's possible to put a 460 based 514 stroker into a Fox-Bodied Mustang, but do you really want to attempt it?  Especially when I know guys running in the 11s with 302s!!  Manned space flight is possible, but it isn't cheap or easy!!  If you want a big-block 'Cuda, then step up to the plate and buy one that already has a 383 or 440 in it. Don't buy a 318 model and think you'll "Drop" a 440 in it later. After you buy a big-block crossmember,and radiator, torsion bars, swap the 904 Torqueflite for a 727, and replace the 8 1/4 rear with an 8 3/4 or Dana 60 and big-block springs....get the picture?  # 7. Pick the right car for the purpose. If you want to build a corner-carving "G" machine you'd be better off starting with a '75 Trans-Am than you would a '65 GTO! If you want to build a stompin' drag racing big-block Camaro-your better off with a '70's Camaro than you are an '80's IROC-Z. Why? 1st off-a Rat was an option until 1972-so it'll fit easily without a lot of custom fabrication, unlike the 3rd gen models. The 8.5 inch 10 bolt rear ends can take a lot of abuse. Unless you have a 700 hp motor and are running wrinkelwall slicks bolted to the rims-you probably won't have a problem. The 7.5 inchers in the later F-bodies break behind 165 hp 305s!!  Ditto for transmissions. A stock TH350 will hold up behind a 500 hp engine, as will a Muncie or BW 4-speed. The T5 5-speeds only had a 300 lb torque rating. They wouldn't last at all behind a Rat. 200R4s and 700R4s can live behind a Rat, but only after they've been significantly beefed up by a pro tranny shop. See what I'm saying?  #8. Avoid "Niche" exotics and old Kit Cars. They may sound cool in theory-but again-if your going to drive the car at all, eventually it'll need repairs. Where are you going to find a master cylinder for a Sunbeam Tiger? A heater core for a Pantera?  Brake Pads for a Mangusta? Anything for a Bricklin?   Are you really going to go 100+ mph in a "Manta Ray" or "Kelmark GT" that some clown built 30 years ago with a Pinto front end and a Corvair swing axle?  I wouldn't!!  Hope this helps people avoid "Money Pits". Mastermind